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So last episode, I had wet sanded the newly painted door and quarter with 1500 wet.
After 2 days absence for my older son's 31st birthday and a work thing, I came back yesterday afternoon. I couldn't remember if I had done the 3000 so I hit it lightly with that, then the 5000 then compound, polish 1 and 2.
When the door was done I looked at it close and could see tiny circular scratches. So, I redid the door all over again starting with the 3000, the 5000, then compound, etc... Nothing like doing a job twice.
It worked much better. I think if I look really, really close [like 2-3" away] I can see some tiny scratches remaining. But my big concern is going through the clear coat as I don't think it was applied very thick.
So, to avoid really screwing things up, I think I'm going to leave it alone.
I had another Aw Sh*t moment when sanding the portion at the top of the fender. Alfredo had blended that as it was a pretty noticeable difference in color at the top of the lower fender section. As soon as he laid on the clear a friend came by and opened the door, [a windy day] and it blew some crap on the paint. I had to sand that out but forgot to put a piece of tape on the hood to protect that paint. I was so focused on getting the nubs out, I sanded a tiny edge of the hood down to the metal. Awww Sh*t!
Always remember to tape off adjoining edges. Alfredo is coming by in a day or two to give it a shot.
So after the paint fun I started to install the new Borla "Aggressive" exhaust.
Let's just go to the photos and captions shall we?
Aww Sh*t moment. Oh, well, nothing that can't be fixed...
Door ended up looking good. Still have the quarter, tailgate and roof to do yet.
So Exhaust.
When I removed the old system to do the "One Ball" , 2 of the mounting bolts for the hanger broke off, despite 2-3 applications of BP Blaster and letting it sit for a day or 2. I wasn't too concerned as this was on the right side and the muffler for the "On Ball" is on the left . I slathered up the 2 bolts that didn't break with never seize and ran a nut on in case I wanted to install a "real exhaust" in the future. I guess the future is now!
Broke off flush...
A bit left on this one.
As the stud was welded in from the top and I didn't see anyway to get a new bolt or stud in I first thought about welding a bolt to the floor. Probably would have worked.
Then I had the brain storm of drilling out the 8mm stud, and tapping it for a 6mm stud/bolt. Worked out pretty well and I'm sure the 6mm is strong enough.
I drilled through at least 1/4 to 5/16 of metal and tapped it. I cut the head off the 6mm bolt and screwed it in with loc-tite, then a nut to keep tension on the threads. I figured if the stud was tight enough that it snapped it wasn't going anywhere.
I think it will work fine.
On to the exhaust install.
This went pretty smooth. Got everything in place loose then jacked up the center and tightened everything up. Contrary to the instructions, I started at the rear to get the tips right then worked my way forward.
It doesn't look like it's touching anything anywhere.
Have to say, a lift would have been nice. I'm getting a little old for rolling around on the floor with only jack stands. For 6 hours....
[Oops, just noticed I need to put the screw in the clip that holds the fuel vent lines...]
Beauty Shots...
I've read where people putting on other exhaust talk about having to bend brackets and do things to make it fit. I have to say with the Borla, there were absolutely none of those issue. Fit like a glove!
I think tomorrow I'll put the inner door panel and the door handle and mirror back together, and/or finish sanding and polishing the quarter.
You should see the total hack job on the Ebay POS exhaust on Grumpy. Cut and extended hangers, left muffler hangs super low, brackets at the tips were welded together vs bolted and the tips are crooked, etc. Add to that drone and the broken baffles in the mufflers and it really needs to go. Sadly there are more pressing mechanical needs. The wife just wants to buy another Ebay POS because they're cheap. I just want to buy a pair of Magnaflow mufflers and replace the rattling turds.
Looking great, Rob. Not sure how much bargain there is in this, anymore. Ours is slowly reaching the point of no longer being any type of bargain or budget build, either, though.
Yjs,
I was looking at some on Amazon [probably the same ones as on Flea-Bay] and read the nightmare reviews. I guess you do get what you pay for. I bought Borla headers for my '93 Cobra Mustang and they were really nice. Bought a set for a Jeep YJ build and same thing.
At $800 they better be nice! But I did buy them off Amazon so free shipping and I used my Amazon credit card so 5% cash back.
There's a link in a prior post of the sound. If you jump to the very end they have the sound of the "Touring" [which I was really considering] and the "Aggressive". The second I heard the "Aggressive" I thought, "that's it", not a seconds hesitation.
I imagine if you "short shift" and keep your [my] foot out of it it'll be at an acceptable level.
I justified this by figuring I did the rear brake lines myself for like $50, and looks like the dealer charges $2200, so I still have money left over!
You should invest in a Mini code reader/reset-er. You WILL need it. If not immediately, immediately after. I assume you will start it on the jack stands to look for leaks. Make sure you bleed the coolant using the bleed valve. Don't forget power steering fluid and to bleed it too. Turn the headlights to off not Auto. Your ambient temp sensor still hooked up? If not you will get codes for that also.
I am sure you thought of all that already.
Oh this is exciting!
Steve,
It is exciting. After 5 months it makes smoke and noise!
Start up was somewhat uneventful actually. Turned the key and it started right up and settled down to a good idle.
Gave everything under the hood a quick once over the started checking out the Christmas Tree of lights on the dash. A minute later all kinds of steam from about where the exhaust manifold was. The colant tank cap was loose and I think it burped, spilling some coolant on the manifold.. I had filled it at the tank, opening and closing the bleeder screw near the thermostat until no bubbles and a steady stream, [engine off] then filled up the radiator hose by way of the bleeder valve there. Then after starting it and letting it run a few minutes [until the thermostat] opened then open the heater box to bleed that as well.
I was a little worried as it took a while for the fan to come on but eventually it did, when I turned the a/c on.] That reminds me I'll have to check it after letting it run for while without the a/c on.]
The tensioner "saver/stop", [if the belt breaks keeps the tensioner from dropping onto the crank pulley] was ticking/rattling pretty good so I removed it. I'll deal with that another day... or not.
The exhaust sounds great and I love that you can hear the supercharger whine as well.
Not being "computed oriented " in any way shape or form, I bought one of these anticipating "codes". [can never have too many tools, right?]
Well I just managed to clear all the existing codes. We'll see what comes back.
And when I say "just managed" I mean it. I'll probably have to find a 15 year old for anything more complicated. Wrenches, yes, computers, not so much.
Anyway after 5 months it was a relief that it starts and runs especially on 2 year old sh*t gas. And actually runs pretty good. Initially it had a tiny hesitation off idle, but that pretty much went away after it warmed up.
[I'm guessing you can't upload a video???]
Still plenty to do, finish polishing the new paint, do the roof, put the inner door panel back together, center consul, rockers, wheel opening trim, wet sand and polish the bumper and scoop, install bumper cover for good, etc, etc... Re-bleed the brakes, [again- the pedal went soft], wheels...
I feel your pain. My Jeep sat for 6-7 months and the brakes felt like crap. Bled them, adjusted the rear drums and replaced a wheel cylinder, bled, replaced the master cylinder, bled some more, still crap. Finally replaced the calipers and need to replace the wheel cylinder and we're getting somewhere. It has been tremendously frustrating.
Been following this along! FYI, the code reader can actuate the ABS pump to bleed out the air that's more than likely in there from taking off the rear brake lines. I went through a lot of brake fluid getting the brake pedal finally solid! You can also do the piece of wood on the brake pedal and move the seat up and putting tension on the brake pedal over night. That helps get some of the little bits of air out of the MC that make the pedal soft! Watching all this work makes me wish I had time to work on my GP! Need the motivation to get back out in the barn!
"FYI, the code reader can actuate the ABS pump to bleed out the air that's more than likely in there from taking off the rear brake lines."
Hey Soul,
You might have to school me on that! I hooked up the code thing for the first time in my life. Got Blue Car entered and managed, [somehow] to eliminate the Christmas Tree of codes I had. Then tried to change the service interval.
As far as I can tell my next oil change is due in 2 million miles...
The 2x4 trick seems more up my alley. I read these post regarding "tunes" and I'm pretty much WTF are they talking again? Is it even a car?
I missed the "computer generation" by 2 or 3 generations.
rob
So while waiting on the M/C and the new challenge of brake bleeding, I focused on the front bumper that's was temporarily mounted as sanding and polish would be much easier with it firmly mounted.
Painting the bumper did not go as well as I hoped. I'm doing everything "by the book" but it seems I'm not getting as fine a mist as I would like, resulting in orange peel. The paint itself to be honest looked pretty bad. [serious orange peel]. I used about 20-25% reducer with the clear and laid on one not so wet coat, then waited and did a really wet coat, then another wet coat. At that point I pretty much laid the clear on until the gun was empty, pausing only long enough for a sip or two of beer. Amazingly enough, no runs! I'm sure I pushed it to the limit.
The top of the bumper, [when mounted] and the top portion of the lower opening looked pretty "bumpy" the rest, not so bad. But at least there was plenty of clear to sand smooth.
Onto the photos;
Serious orange peel. Maybe "grapefruit peel"! I first tried sanding with the 3000 but ended up switching to the 1500.
The rest I was able to sand with 3000. I did not sand the recesses where the lights were located.
After 1500 on the top and the top of the lower opening, then 3000 on everything, then 5000 on everything, then compound. I think there's hope!
After compound, [step #1] then polish #2 and #3, looking pretty darn good. I like it. Next wax, and finding something really soft from home to sit it on while installing the grills and lights. It's really hard to take good photos of shiny black things.
If you look close yo can see my "helper". She's a great shop dog. Sleeps right through the compressor [10HP, 3 phase] kicking on. "Good Dog!"
Two dogs in this shot. Turned out nice, good shine.
A good 2 nights of wax on, wax off. Tomorrow evening, [or maybe Saturday], M/C installation.
How long has it been since you painted it? The paint does need a fair amount of time to finish outgassing before it should be sealed with a wax. I'm trying to remember if the painter told us 60 or 90 days when we had the front end of my wife's GTI painted a few years ago.
Dang, I knew that but forgot. I thought it was 30 days. The bumper was painted about 3 weeks ago. I googled this and the answers are all over the map. Some said with 2 part urethane paint anywhere from a few days, 3 weeks, a month. "Cheaper" paint takes longer [not sure why that would be].
Seems it was a bigger issue with single stage. I guess with the 2 part if it's hard enough to cut and buff the next day, [sooner with heat curing] it outgasses quicker than single stage.
I think it'll be ok but thanks for the reminder. "Maybe" I'll remember next time.
robj
So while waiting on M/C tank I started installing the bumper cover and getting lighting figured out. I posted what may be some dumb questions in this regard to "Hatch Talk" and I'm hoping some of you more experienced guys reply. You probably know who you are so please... don't be shy. Input is welcome!
After starting to install the bumper cover "for real" I quickly realized to pull this whole black bumper cover thing together the trim rings around the headlights are desperately screaming to be black, probably gloss black.
Is it possible to take the OEM headlights apart to paint the trim rings?
If not, is there a recommendation for a headlight with black trim? I don't care if I have to ditch the "self-leveling". [unnecessary complication as far as I'm concerned] Or the stupid "washers", more stupid sh*t.
But if I can dis-assemble the OEM and just paint the trim, better yet.
Thanks, [and thanks for everyones for their continued help]
rob
Desperately needs black trim rings on the headlights!
My biggest concern with painting chrome trim on the front of the car is how well it will hold up. It's a very difficult surface to get good adhesion to and it will likely chip very easily. The grills and headlight trim had been plastidipped by a previous owner and were already showing wear, despite the more rugged nature of that type of coating.
We got the Helix projector lights (with gloss black trim) from ECS Tuning (Way Motor Works also has them) and have been pretty pleased. While not xenon, the upgrade to a projector light for the low beam gives a much better pattern. They still maintain the auto leveling feature. The fitment is pretty good, though there is a very slight gap around the lights. We'll probably upgrade them from halogen to a high output LED at some point. They were about $250 for the set, which isn't bad. Check out "Project: Grumpy" in the Mini Builds section for pics.
I've also seen just the trim around the headlights offered, though I'm not sure what kind of quality they might be.
Although I'm not big on the washers, considering the ease which the rings seem to come off, [and the $225 for new lights] I think I will give a shot at painting what I have.
YJ, I had looked at the ones you got before and I did see the gap you were referring to. It's not bad, but it always amazes me that if you're going to go to the trouble to make an aftermarket part, how darn difficult is it to make it right? Too difficult I guess.
I'll post the process I use and we'll see how well it works.
Still looking for help on the Hyper-Flash...
Thanks,
rob
Headlight ring removal:
Looks very easy on the video
Gabor,
I think I may have to call bullsh*t on this guy''s video. You notice he's removing black trim rings, [not OEM chrome] and mysteriously one of the clips is already broken.
He says to pop off the 3 top clips and it just "slides down/off" . No, No and heck no. [Looked like his didn't have the washers either, they are a bit more of a challenge to get the bucket out.
I just did mine and working very carefully and using a heat gun liberally I barely managed to get mine off without breaking the ring and only breaking one clip. Took about 1/2 hour each.
What he doesn't mention, and what prevents the ring from "sliding off" towards the bottom is 8 pieces of really heavy duty black rubber double edge tape all the way around the ring.
Getting the 3 little clips off on the top wasn't too bad and when they are unclipped you can pull the ring away at the top and slide a tiny screwdriver in to break the seal on the tape.
You can't do that on the bottom as the ring does slide on from that direction. Ended up heating the ring up pretty good, almost too hot to keep a finger on it and stuck a screwdriver in from the lens side to break the tape loose.
The second one was a little easier as I knew about where the tape was.
I'll bet what's in my wallet the guy broke the OEM chrome rings and the "demonstration" was with an after-market ring after he got the tape off. There's nothing "sliding off" here.
In true Mini-cooper fashion, the lights didn't just jump out either. I'll post some pics of the removal later.
Proceed with caution and use a heat gun!
robj
Pics below.
Black double edge. Doesn't look like much but sure had a grip!
Location of the pieces of tape. They were in "about" the same location on both rings. Heat gun and good luck.
I so love that you bought this car, and are working at a much faster pace doing all the stuff I want to do, and doing such a thorough job documenting it. 🤣
So headlight trim rings. . To tie in the black bumper and the black stripes and roof, after taking the masking tape off the headlights I realized they hjust have to be black as well.
Taking the buckets out was a slight pain and the hose for the stupid washers need to be removed along with some wiring and the piston that raises the washer thing.
So much complexity for what can be accomplished better with a paper towel. What a waste of engineering...
Anyway some photos of that process below, then onto prepping the trim rings. I also took the mirror covers off and premiered them. I had rattle canned them black but they really didn't great so I figured I would repaint them as well.
Some photos and hints for headlight bucket with washers removal.
3 nuts, 2 at the top and 1 at the bottom. 8mm
Bottom nut is much easier to remove if you remove 3-4 torx screws holding whatever this is on. It hinges down out of the way. You have to drop it to get the bucket out anyway. Probably a computer for the dumb washers, who knows?
Electrical plug. The thing you squeeze to release is in the back out of view, of course.
Lousy photo, but there's the squeezy thing for the plug.
Line going to the piston that raises the squirter. push the seated part in as far as it will go and pull the hose out.
Same line. Push the little horseshoe shaped piece in and pull.
Last but not least, the piston for the washer has to come off. Push a screwdriver in the space at the rear to push on the little clip where my thumb is and pull the assembly down.
So that's about it. Like I said, they don't just jump out.
Are you going to use Eastwood Chassis Black? I was considering that, probably satin finish, for my headlight rings and mirror caps. I thought it might hold up better to rock chips and bug guts.
I just typed up a whole thing on the painting process and while offing with photos it disappeared. Whata pain. I'll do it again tomorrow. I'm going for another evening of paint gun angst...
Stay tuned.
robj
I think I may have to call bullsh*t on this guy''s video. You notice he's removing black trim rings, [not OEM chrome] and mysteriously one of the clips is already broken.
He says to pop off the 3 top clips and it just "slides down/off" . No, No and heck no. [Looked like his didn't have the washers either, they are a bit more of a challenge to get the bucket out.
I just did mine and working very carefully and using a heat gun liberally I barely managed to get mine off without breaking the ring and only breaking one clip. Took about 1/2 hour each.
Sorry about that, I do not wanted to mislead you with this YouTube clip.
(The metal "computer thing" behind the headlight is the ballast for the xenon (HID) bulb)
Heck no Gabor,
I'm glad you took the time to respond and posted it. It was def.helpful.
I was just calling the youtube guy out for a misleading video. It would have be fine if he said the whole thing was taped all the way around.
I just had the thought that maybe the car was new to him and someone else went through the Pia I did before him and maybe he thinks they all come off that easy.
Anyway like I said, thanks for posting, it was helpful,
robj
