R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Bargin $500 Mini - Master Cylinder

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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 05:28 PM
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Bargin $500 Mini - Master Cylinder

So the initial start up went fine and after sitting for 5 months and replacing just about everything I was quite relieved.

I did brake lines, calipers, rotors, pads and bled the brakes last week using a pressure bleeder. The pedal seemed ok but after a few days it went soft again.

So I prepared to bleed them again as this doesn't seem to be unusual.I tried it tonight [forgetting to test the fit with air first] and got brake fluid down behind the M/C.
At first I thought it was the seal of the pressure bleeder at the cap, [and it was leaking there a little].
I cleaned everything up and tried the pressure bleeder with just air and after a little fiddling with the cap it seemed ok.

Tried it with brake fluid and again had a leak. It looks like I'm seeing it at the base of the of the M/C at the brake booster.

So I'm guessing a new M/C is in order as the lines and fitting look ok.

My question is could it be anything else?

Fluid is collecting at the bottom where the blue is.





Thanks,
robj
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 07:21 PM
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Something similar happened to me. How much psi are you putting in the bleeder?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 09:34 PM
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The first time I went to 20 psi. The instructions with the bleeder said don't exceed that. I had "speed bleeders" on the rear and at 20, it seemed the fluid was moving really slow. I stopped and put the OEM bleeders back it and it seemed better. [I was used to the old school way with a buddy with his foot on the pedal and fluid squirting out.]

I went all around to each wheel and it seemed to work ok. The pedal seemed pretty hard. I did notice some fluid below the M/C even then but thought it was from the pressure cap. I figured out that [the adaptor from the pressure bleeder to the M/C] needs to be on tight but not too tight. And it's imperative to test using only air first.

This time I pumped it to only about 15 and still had the leak. I'm not sure if I could have blown out a seal the first time going to 20, or it it just pointed to a seal in the M/C that was already bad.
I'm now wondering [like you are] if possibly at 20 I could have blown out a seal in the m/c.

Think I'll restrict the pressure to 15 in the future.

Either way, looks like I'll need to replace the M/C and ordered one yesterday. Should be here tomorrow.

How did your's go?

rob
 

Last edited by robj; Feb 25, 2020 at 07:17 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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that day, it was a mess. I figured I went to high on the pressure and blew a hose off or something. I went all the way to 25 psi 😬

at the time I backed off the pressure checked all the connections and finished the job. Then cleaned up really good. I’ve not seen any leak since. It was weird
 
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 05:19 PM
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In an effort to eliminate the pressure as the problem I put the M/C cap on, pumped the brake pedal a few times until firm then help the pedal down firmly for about 2-3 minutes. I couldn't quite tell for sure but the pedal may have been sinking slightly. When I checked under the M/C there was additional fluid, so that's pretty much that.

To get to the M/C the airbox comes out along with moving the fuse box all to remove the rear splash guard. I stuffed plenty of rags everywhere, then used a turkey baster to get as much fluid out as possible.
Removal of the M/C is pretty straight forward. Remove the 2 lines, [11mm] I gave them a shot of BP Blaster first. Then the Torx bolt that attaches the reservoir and the nuts from the studs that hold the M/C on, then separate the reservoir from the M/C [careful with the line to the clutch cylinder-it stays with the reservoir] then slide the M/C out.

As the new M/C hasn't arrived I put the reservoir on a bag to control any drips, as brake fluid melts paint. Also, be careful where you sit the old M/C it'll leak fluid as well.

Small set back, no biggie.
robj


Torx bolt holding the reservoir on. Attaching nut below and a second on the top right.



Staged photo. when actually removing the fluid I had a paint mixing cup right there. Brake fluid is nasty to paint. Work carefully.



Bagged and zip tied. if you do this be very careful removing the bag, rags all around!



Took the opportunity to clean up back there.
 

Last edited by robj; Feb 25, 2020 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 04:48 PM
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OK,
Getting slightly frustrated. With the original M/C I had pumped the pressure bleeder to 20 psi, [maybe 25 but def. not over that]. I ended up getting a leak of brake fluid from what appeared to be the back/lower mounting bolt. Enough that it left a puddle.

So I figured I blew a seal in the M/C. I'm following the Pelican Parts instructions here;
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ing_Brakes.htm

So I bought a new M/C and installed it tonight. I was very careful with the set-up of the pressure bleeder, [testing with air first] . I put the brake fluid into the pressure bleeder and pumped it up to only 10psi.
Next thing I know there's a trickle of brake fluid coming from the exact same spot! WT [heck]?

And looking at the M/C and the angle it's positioned, I really don't see how the fluid could be getting from the seals to where I'm seeing it.
It's leaking from behind the the M/C flange right below the mounting bolt.
Any suggestions?

robj



 
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Old Feb 29, 2020 | 05:37 AM
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Possible solution... I think the m/c reservoir may have a leak at the seam in the back when under pressure. On closer examination, the back of the tank seemed wet, and was completely wiped off and dry when installed.
I was contemplating getting plugs for the lines or fittings that I could crimp and seal the lines and pressure test with it unbolted so I could see the rear, but figured 2-3 days to get/find plugs or I can get a new one in the same amount of time. I just ordered a new reservoir. I might of tested it but after 5 months I'm getting really close to being roadworthy.

Hopefully thats the problem. I did find 1-2 other places where a split in the reservoir was mentioned. Probably made by the same company that makes the coolant tanks...

rob
 

Last edited by robj; Feb 29, 2020 at 11:01 AM.
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