How easy is it to install new speaker wires running from a trunk mounted amplifier to the speakers in the front doors? Specifically, can the wires be fed through the existing rubber cable tubes in the hinge area of the doors?

Advise, tips, etc.. would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Generally it is not need unless you are running insane amounts of power, somewhere in the 2-300 watts per channel range. Most of the time you can just run the wire from the amp to the headunit and tap into the stock speaker wires right there.

 

Phew! Thank goodness for that. Is there a recommended type of connector for tapping into the speaker wires behind the head unit?

 

Any type of connector should do, the MINI wires are actually very good.

 

Solder and shrink wrap is the best connection, then solder and very good electrical tape, then crimp style butt connectors, the crimp caps, then wire taps and lastly twist on caps. Personally I always use solder and tape just because shrink wrap is a pain to use and I try to never use the last three choices as they are not very good.

 

I can understand your preference for solder. I'll take your advice. The only thing is that I'm always a bit wary of electrical tape, especially in a car, where high temperatures can cause it to loose it's adhesiveness over time. Have you ever considered solder and a butt connector? Slide the butt connector over the outer sheath of the wire, solder the 2 wires together and then slide the connector back over the soldered connections and crimp.

 

i ran new wires it's a job

here some pics ( had to dremel the connector )





as Greg S said :

 

Thanks for the pics Gilll7. My amp will only be pushing 75watts per channel and so I think the stock speaker wires will be fine. It was neverthless very useful to see your pics with the door panel removed because I believe I will have to do that to install the crossovers for the new speakers. I also want to install some sound deadening in the doors.

 

no prob.. check this thread out (first 2 pages) for more pics

 

That's why I said 'good' electrical tape. I pretty much only use 3M Super 33+, which is their best black electrical tape and also cost near $5 a roll. Good down to below freezing and up in to the low to mid 100s. I definately not use normal UL list tape as it will melt or harden at the temperature extremes. 15 years of using the 33+ as an installer with maybe 10 times something happened because of the tape. If I was going to the extent of doing the butt connector over solder I would just do heat shrink at it'll be the same work at that point. I'm just lazy enough that I don't want that last little bit of effort. And I'm just too used to using the tape.

 

I thought I had used good quality tape in the past but have never used 3m. I certainly didn't pay $5 a roll and so I quess I got what I paid for. I'll try 3m this time since you have had good luck with it over a number of years. Thanks.

 

The easiest secure connection is with crimp-caps or butt connectors. I owned a custom car stereo shop and was in the business for 8 years. This was how we built all of our show cars.