Drivetrain 15% install question
15% install question
Hello all,
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 15% pulley.
I live about 150 miles from the nearest dealer..... and not too keen on paying big labor charges for installation.
I don't see anything that looks too difficult on the webbmotorsports write up for installation.... but want to check:
I think I've read about people changing pulleys without lifting the engine. Am I dreaming? or is that true.
Any info on any new "techniques" would be great.
Thanks
Donald
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a 15% pulley.
I live about 150 miles from the nearest dealer..... and not too keen on paying big labor charges for installation.
I don't see anything that looks too difficult on the webbmotorsports write up for installation.... but want to check:
I think I've read about people changing pulleys without lifting the engine. Am I dreaming? or is that true.
Any info on any new "techniques" would be great.
Thanks
Donald
Lifting the motor is easy...
so don't sweat it, and getting the old pully off would be a pain, or worse, not possible. The key is having the right tools (belt tensioner and pulley removal tool).
Lifting the motor is only about 3 or 4 bolts and a jack.
Matt
Lifting the motor is only about 3 or 4 bolts and a jack.
Matt
getting the engine unhooked and up is easy, belt tensioner, can take some time if you don't have a tensioner (this was a pain in the @$$ for me), removing the pulley with a pulley puller is fast took 4 min with 2 of us. the only other hard part other then the tensioner is lowering the engine and aligning it right so the engine can be remounted.
Originally Posted by soilsample
I think I've read about people changing pulleys without lifting the engine. Am I dreaming? or is that true.
FWIW, Randy Webb used two jacks - helped in nudging things the right way.
The only thing I found that can take a bit of work to allign
is the bolt for the lower engine mount. I just stuffed a screwdriver into the bolt hole and engine mount, and pulled it into line.
Matt
Matt
Dnjat,
Thanks for the nice offer! Unfortunately, I live in Southwest Louisiana.....
Thanks to everyone else for the advice.
Next question:
Ive read some people say that they didn't remove "all the stuff" that was removed in the write up.
I plan to buy the puller that will let you leave the tensioner in place..... do I really have to pull the air box out? And all that other "stuff".
Thanks again
Donald
Thanks for the nice offer! Unfortunately, I live in Southwest Louisiana.....
Thanks to everyone else for the advice.
Next question:
Ive read some people say that they didn't remove "all the stuff" that was removed in the write up.
I plan to buy the puller that will let you leave the tensioner in place..... do I really have to pull the air box out? And all that other "stuff".
Thanks again
Donald
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Originally Posted by soilsample
Dnjat,
Thanks for the nice offer! Unfortunately, I live in Southwest Louisiana.....
Thanks to everyone else for the advice.
Next question:
Ive read some people say that they didn't remove "all the stuff" that was removed in the write up.
I plan to buy the puller that will let you leave the tensioner in place..... do I really have to pull the air box out? And all that other "stuff".
Thanks again
Donald
Thanks for the nice offer! Unfortunately, I live in Southwest Louisiana.....
Thanks to everyone else for the advice.
Next question:
Ive read some people say that they didn't remove "all the stuff" that was removed in the write up.
I plan to buy the puller that will let you leave the tensioner in place..... do I really have to pull the air box out? And all that other "stuff".
Thanks again
Donald
You need to pull the air box; 3 screws, 2 elec connections and 2 hose clamps and your done with it 15 minutes tops. And as ***** said you need to remove it to get to the DS engine mount bolt.
If you get the newer pulley puller you don't have to remove the tensioner system. You still need to remove the tension, but not the tensioner.
We just did one this afternoon, took the 2 of us a little less then 2 hours start to finish. I've got a diagram and some pictures of my tension tool in my gallery, cost me about $5 to make with some flat stock from Lowes.
I also pulled the PS inner wheel well cover, made routing the belt a lot easier.
Good luck
Originally Posted by Smokey
I've got a diagram and some pictures of my tension tool in my gallery, cost me about $5 to make with some flat stock from Lowes.
Originally Posted by creeker
Smokey, looked in your gallery for your tensioner diagram and it not there. Any chance you could post it?

It was a trace, but in the scanning process the picture changed size, so pay attention to the measurments more so then the picture. The finished product has been cleaned up, edges rounded and the handle Plasti-Dip'd for comfort.


Started with a cardboard mock up to get the angles and rollpin locations:

Here's one more:
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