2006 JCW, I've had a P1498 code pending for a while, it went full active the other day so I figured it would be easy to find it now. After putting smoke in various spots (I am surprised it didn't show here immediately as my first spot was the throttle body...) I think I have tracked it down to the supercharger inlet duct green gasket.

There is quite a bit of oil that has been dripping out of here apparently, is this common for when this fails, I think the PCV is upstream of this?

I had originally thought this would be the CPS oring so I have that handy. Is there anything else I should do while I am here? I already managed to not catch all the coolant from the radiator as always so if I can avoid another service mode, I am all ears.

 

Perhaps stating the obvious here but looking at your picture it's probably not the gasket but the tube not being seated right. It can be quite difficult to get it to sit right.

Sometimes the bolt hole that fixes the tube in place breaks making the tube vulnerable to shake lose over time.

 

Yeah, it was a bit wonky, I was under the impression (maybe incorrectly) the green gasket is a bit of a single use item? From the amount of oil there I figured at this point it may have been an issue for a while and is maybe worth replacing.

Any tricks to get it to sit correctly when I get there? Getting it off was a bear from every angle, the red clip tubes being in the back doesn't help at all with my fat fingers, I don't know how some people manage to do this without going into service mode.

I am somewhat assuming I should connect everything else before seating it and pushing the bolt all the way back in the slot might be best? It's weird to me that there is only one bolt for the whole connection.

 

Is it just me or do I see a slight gap between the green gasket seal?
I've never had the unfortunate "luxury" of having to deal with this before...

 

Definitely, the seal was not great, bolt was at the far front of the slot, it’s supposed to be a slot not a hole right? Photo below from after taking the bolt off. Hoping this is the only leak for my p1498. Worth doing anything else while I wait for my new gasket? I’ve heard supercharger service might be in order, only 58k miles on the car so maybe it doesn’t need that yet.

 

It has been a while since I did my sc service and I can't remember for sure what the hole should look like.

Are you sure the tube isn't broken at the bottom in your picture? There seems to be "tube stuff" dangling around.

 

If it were me, I'd do it just based on age and being a good part of the way there already.

 

the mounting hole in the horn is bigger like that, almost like a slot. so that looks right to me. the seal is downstream of the pvc, yes, I believe you are correct on that.

it does seem strange to me that it would start leaking, while in place, undisturbed.

+1 check for cracks in the horn. the photo makes it look like it might be damaged at the bottom there, but that could just be the photo

 

what worked for me, was leaving everything lose, especially the throttle body bracket. then once everything is in, tighten down

 

FYI ... You'll find it easier to get a proper seal on the green gasket without the tube being attached to the throttle body.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I checked the plastic duct over well after removing and I don’t see any cracks, hoping it’s fine for $400. Might have to keep and eye out at the junk yard for a spare.

Planning to do the supercharger service. I think this looks like it has everything I need Supercharger Kit ECS assuming most gaskets are generic and fine. Fingers crossed for no more code when done.

 

That's a steal from @ECS Tuning for ~$170 if you ask me. Considering it contains a waterpump, waterpump flange and a piece of pipe as well.

And I'm spoiled since I live in Europe and can get "everything really cheap directly from Germany"

 

the kit looks pretty good. there is a small hose that runs from the horn to the bypass valve (w 2 hose clamps). I don't see it in the kit but might be good to replace

also I've seen mixed reviews on uro parts.

have you used realoem.com?

 

Thanks both, I did get the kit for $170.

I will probably replace the short hose, one hose clamp was definitely an aftermarket screw type, the other was that single use style the factory used. Some previous owner seems to have done something in here before.

For the water pump, is there a way to check the one in there well enough to leave it or is it better to replace anyways? I only drive this car <3k per year so maybe the URO is okay?

 

I would definitely replace it anyway as you can't really tell the state of it. Yes you can wiggle it to test for play but I'm guessing you don't want to do this job again in the near future.

Btw there are very few hose clamps that are one time use on these cars. Definitely not on the coolant or air hoses. All coolant hoses should have spring clamps, most air hoses have those "hook em up and over" style of clamps.
Only the powersteering lines and driveshafts have the one time use ear clamps.

I'm personally not a fan of the screw / jubilee clamps as these can cut into the hose when tightened to strong. The oem clamps always apply the right amount of force.

 

yes replace the water pump if you are going in that far.

+1 on what lukash said

 

Most stuff trickling in during the holiday mail, waiting on the supercharger oil to get here today but figured I would update.

Supercharger looks pretty good inside.
The first oil picture is from water pump side, pretty good amount in there and very light still.
The second oil picture is from the pully side, darker, quite a bit of volume, some of the last droplets had a silver tinge to them.
I don't have a great history on this car but for 58,000 miles it was better than expected?

Still planning to replace the water pump with the URO per the suggestions but the old one seemed in good shape from the outside, no marking on the casing to know if it was original mini or someone had been here before...

 

(IMHO) - Looks perfect!
Both clarity and amount of oil = definitely indicative of low mileage. Those rotors (teflon) look brand new!

 

Supercharger oil volume is weird, the pully side took about 130ml give or take, that seemed positive. I feel like the water pump side doesn't want any. Is there an orientation other than the way it sits on the engine that I am supposed to fill?

I'd rather not remove the cover based on comments elsewhere, but I am curious.

 

Either way it sits : I believe the waterpump end gets 40ml (?). I don't have my notes so someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I do remember that it doesn't take much.

 

Sounds good, unless I hear anyone say otherwise, I'll put the 40ml in and send it.

I was surprised by the Bently manual claiming it could be toped up while on the car and that the level would be correct once it started to drip out. That is definitely not the case for me when I have it blocked up in that position.

 

Yeah - Just read/looked it up -
145ml snout/pulley end
40ml waterpump end.
I serviced/changed oil (pulley side & pump side) on mine, twice, whilst still on the car using a syringe. Once @80k and @102k. On the car: Pulley side was/is easy were as the pump side is do-able on the car; Its a bit cramped and you have remove A LOT of stuff out of the way. But certainly do-able (for someone like me that doesn't like to go into FESM if I can avoid it)...
notwithstanding :
It also gave me a chance to clean the throttle body and inspect the Bypass since I was experiencing a lag upon take off.

 

toping up the oil could be done in situ.

to do an oil change you will need to pull the charger off

 

Finally had some time to get it all back together, I tried a few more times to get the 40ml in the water pump end, best I could do was 20ml before it started draining while in the normal orientation, but the fluid looks fine and that seems to look similar to what came out in the first draining.
Accidently bought full concentrate G48 and didn't think twice that it seemed thick going in, so another drain, cleanup and fill for the coolant... debated cutting a section out of the lower radiator hose to add a drain plug but decided against it for now.
Looks like the plastic duct was the source of my P1498, I had to do a throttle body adaptation reset but after that, no more pending or current codes. Success!