ok so i am not a pro mechanic , but i am very DIY inclined

I own a 2006 r53 automatic
only mods i have done are
17% pulley
ALta CAI
Cooler spark plugs

I did a oil change with synthetic with a OEM filter 4.8 liters btw
after the oil change i let it run for about 30 minutes to insure that i did it correctly and no oil would leak and that the fans would kick in (low speed btw).. i look under and yeah no leak cool

i Did rev @ 5k rpm or a little more ( kind of like a little stress test) and no issues , i turned the car off look away for 10 min and coolant comes out of the bottom...

I didn't notice after going home after the shop that it lacking coolant...

my car overheat going home.. turned it off untill i could get home ( 15 min drive from my shop to my house)...

Today i was determined to find this stupid leak...

i enter the "front service mode" by taking the bumper , aluminum crash bar... the ac radiator and the coolant radiator to find that the coolant seems to come from behind the alternator... :

I pour detilled water into the expansion tank to check.. and in a matter of seconds it starts to leak behind the alternator drip down to the ac compressor ..

I checked the radiator , no leaks , my temp sensor and water pump also no leaks


Did i blow a internal gasket or something?

my car is a 2006 with 56k km (yeah thats right not miles) so its not even that used...

Please help@@@@@@!!!

 

Take to alternator off and see where the leak is...
Could be head gasket if its from the head to block joint.
Or could be from the blanking plate that plugs the hole in the block that is used on R50s.

 

That's not a good leak location. Check to see if it's leaking at the head gasket between the cylinder head and crank case. I've never seen it leak from there, so I dunno. Are you sure it's not leaking from the bleeder screw on the upper coolant line?

 

If there are things in the way that are not enabling you to see where the source is coming from, then I'd probably remove it as stated above. You'll definitely want to track down the source, especially if it's leaking that badly. Post up some pictures for us, maybe it'll help.

 

found the issue ,,,, super hard for me to get out... but finally found it.. not bad for a guy that's not a mechanic


turns out bad corrosion

exactly behind the sc is a little cover(im guessing access ports while forging the engine block ) that leads to the coolant veins inside the engine block....

the car is 10 years old but i have a feeling it was garaged a long time

only 56 k kilometres

i guess the last owner never flushed the coolant system ... or put in the stupid coolant they sell at the gas station and not the 50/50 formula recomended by bmw




so now the issue is ... is all the coolant veins inside the block rotted out?

this little cover seems aluminium to me .. but i could be wrong

is this a simple coolant flush can fix... or did i buy a rotted car..?

 

yep thats it , blanking plate from the r50 engine...

 

Oh wow! It may have had a history of overheating. I would flush everything as best as possible then keep an eye on it. A radiator might be in the future, if you believe the cooling system was indeed neglected (which is quite possible). I would also consider replacing anything plastic, like the thermostat housing and if there are any plastic coolant pipes at the motor. I'd first recommend doing a coolant flush and getting as much of whatever they put into the system out. Doing the vacuum method may be a good idea for you. Info on that HERE. A new cover plate is HERE, #7 below. MINI blue coolant HERE. Use 50/50 with distilled water. Best thing would be is to monitor the cooling system after repairs and check the reservoir for debris or discoloration.



I might consider replacing the thermostat housing since it's plastic... Check the condition of it. Do you know when the thermostat was last replaced?

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

More info here on that: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...hermostat.html

Flush it and use a cleaner , I would also check your heatercore as it might be the next to get clogged.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

 

Just put a pretty big order with Pelican... very resourceful

 

Thank you for your order. Let me know if you run into any issues or have any questions while doing your repairs.

 

just one issue , it says my order just shipped , but im not sure if all the pieces are on that order (it states that some come from germany or other online stores)

 

Mind shooting me a PM with your order number?

 

ok i have replace all parts , now my car will not start...

i have a 12.8 volt reading at my battery ..

all conector sensor are connected

i replaced the crankshaft o ring

tried resetting the ecu

connecting the battery and disconecting it again

is there something im missing?

 

He has an R53, image parts are for R50.

 

Can you be a little more specific.

a) Cranks but doesn't start.
b) Doesn't Crank at all, turn key dash lights up....

 

Cranks and doesn't start I checked the spark plugs , no spark from the ignition coil , no blown fuses now I have the ep flashing at my dashboard HELP!

 

I did not move spark coil , nor unplug it

Did replace the o ring of the crank shaft might not be the right size

 

ok, was it the crank SENSOR O-ring ( purple color ) you replaced or crank seal ?

 

Crank sensor o ring not seal , ( i looked blueish when I took it off )

I did not get the right o ring from supplier , so I put a similar one , I don't know if that influence the whole deal

 

In two posts you say R53 and refer to supercharger.
Then you state in post #6 " R50.
Then Pelican posts parts img for R50.

Maybe we need to start from beginning sir. In future, make a signature comprising of what model, year mini you have to expedite your answers.

Do you have an S model MINI or Non S.

 

Ok, crank seal then.

Sounds like to me it was not connected, or does not have a good connection when replaced. Sometimes the bushings for the connector ( metal inserts that hold the wires in the plug ) can be the issue.

If there is no signal to DME from the crank sensor I believe no spark will be sent thru wires creating the symptoms you have now.

 

Sorry , r53 2006 mini Cooper s , i have no idea why pelican posted a r50 diagram

 

ok, check the connection at the crank sensor then. If not mistaken, unless the DME detects rotation of the crank via that sensor, no power is routed to coil pack.

 

Checked the connection , looks good ,
Cleaned with electric contact cleaner , no go :(

 

Apologies, I saw that post and apparently assumed it was an R50 as I didn't pay attention that his top post said R53.

Did you plug into your OBDII and see if a fault is present at all?