I have a 2017 automatic F54 Clubman JCW, and shortly after I obtained it, I got the "secure vehicle against rolling" error.
I bought a replacement spring for $10 after reading a thread on the problem and the fix, but then saw that some people had been contacted by MINI to have a redesigned shifter installed. I'm not the original owner of the car, so I'm not sure what terms that MINI uses to qualify people for the dealership replacing the flawed-design original shifter with the replacement redesigned shifter that eliminates the problem. I went in to purchase a third key fob (see my other thread on the remote starter I installed) and asked the service desk and they were not familiar and said 'I couldn't find anything" (granted the guy I spoke with said he was new... so...) but I had already researched fixing it and had the replacement spring, so I just decided to move forward with fixing it. I mention it so if someone is looking to do this same fix - be aware of that shifter redesign and be aware that might be an option. Ask your dealership if you qualify for a free replacement like some people who received those letters were offered.

If not, I see ECS Tuning has three replacement shifters for sale. The OEM shifter is an expensive $750 or so, and I didn't get an answer as to whether that's the new design or the original design with the tiny spring. They also have two aftermarket options - one is a traditional aftermarket offering, I forget the price but it was something like $400, and then the had a house-brand Brennan shifter that's cheap, like $200. I'm still curious if that's the original or redesign. But that's another set of options if opening up and fixing the shifter is intimidating. But honestly - that was no big deal. I'd just open yours and replace the spring, unless someone can confirm one of the above options is the redesign - then it might be nice to ensure you never have to do this again.

But at any rate - the reason I created this thread was to show how I disassembled my center console and removed the shifter.
I only captured some detail pictures of my shifter disassembly and spring replacement, in part because I found and followed this video, which is pretty good:
It's good to watch from about 7:30 (disconnecting the shifter cable) through disassembly and replacing the spring. You can see in the video it's not really difficult, and my experience was the same.

So the pictures in the thread below are on disassembling the center console for the F54, since apparently that info isn't anywhere on here yet.

 

I was already about 2 steps ahead on this first photo.

What I didn't show was pretty simple-
To remove the shifter you lift up on the rotating mode selection ring at the base of the shifter, lift from beneath it. There's four clips that hold it down simply with pressure. It takes a decent amount of pressure to release them all.

Once you have that popped up, lift it up and disconnect the electrical connector plug that you'll find under the shifter boot.

Then to remove the shifter itself - you grab the shifter and yank up. Hard. I saw people warning to open your sunroof, worry about hitting yourself in the face - I didn't think mine was on THAT hard, but I gave it some wiggles back and forth as I was yanking. Maybe that helped. You don't need to worry about the button, that doesn't do anything. Just yank up.

Then the two side panels that extend all the way from front to back. I thought I had photos, but turns out I didn't:
Step 1 is to go under the dash on both sides - at the very front, of this long panel there's a smaller panel, closest to the firewall. Up high on the small panel is a slightly recessed Torx 20 screw. Remove that, then you entirely remove the smaller side panels. There's just two clips at the seam where the small panel meets where they meet the longer side panels. I started by getting my fingers under the bottom of the small side panels at this area, then they popped pretty easily for me.
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Step 2 is to move both front seats ALL the way back. Even when you do that it'll be a little tight at the sides of the seats, but it'll be impossible (or you'll bend tabs and break clips off) if you don't.

Step 3 is to pop off the side panels - don't try to remove the glossy black trim, just the textured side panels. The black trim is a totally separate panel.
These console side panels are also held on with the same kind of clips as you see on those two small panels you just removed, so you can pop them loose with your bare hands. It might be helpful to have a plastic panel popper tool, but not required. Work your way down, front to back, pop all the clips loose. Bear in mind right near the center top of each panel is a longer plastic bit that goes from the center panel into a hole on the center console but it isn't a clip - don't just yank up on the panel as you'll bend or break that alignment plastic. Double-check that all your clips and everything is popped loose, then you can lift each panel up from between the seats and center console

[NOTE: In review, I think I may have actually had to remove the rear portion of the console before the side panels would actually be free - the piece with the rear seat vents and USB ports - those steps are below - just carefully slide these side panels out when you get to that step, or skip down and do that step now]

At that point things will look like this:



Next is to tackle the black gloss trim. It's pretty simple, but you have to remove this cover for the aux input and power outlet:
This one is tough to get started. I got a pick tool gently behind the upper corner of that panel and popped it, and even with it partially popped it was still difficult to grab the bottom and pull it to pop it - it's in there tight. Once you pop it loose, it'll look like this, and you'll see those upper tabs are what hold the front of the gloss black panels in.
You also need to remove the two Torx 20 screws that are right below that square hole.
After that, the gloss black pieces are held in by small plastic spring clips back by the armrest. Just push down to release them.

 

There are 4 or 5 screws on each side - also Torx 20. Remove them all.


On this screw - with the seat back all the way, I was fine just pushing down on the Torx driver to squish the seat bolster a little bit to remove the screw. It went in fine doing this as well, but note I started the screw a couple turns with my fingers first:

 

At the very back of the center console, the panel with the vents and chargers pops off with clips that release when you pull it rearwards.
i would use a plastic panel tool to start it. It's another one that's held pretty tight, so work it gently, but firmly.
Once you release it, there's an electrical connector to release at the bottom of it. It's clipped into the side of the center console - note where it's attached and you can pop it out with a metal panel clip release tool or even just a flathead screwdriver.

Then remove the two nuts that hold the back of the center console.


This top panel simply pulls up - held in place with clips.
Also - below it on the sides you see two 13mm bolts - those need to be removed as well. A shallow socket on a rachet wrench fits here fine.


There's electrical connectors to disconnect below, but this connector isn't one. Maybe this is an option I don't have, but at least in my center console this connector wasn't plugged in.
There's a four pin connector plugged into your iDrive controller that needs to be disconnected, and a larger connector to unplug at the parking brake switch:

 

There are two Torx 20 screws to remove in order to remove the portion with the cupholder:


Once you flip the cupholder panel up, there's another electrical connector to disconnect:


Then the panel with the actual Aux input and power plug needs to be removed.
The panel itself is easily released by pushing these tabs inwards to release it.



Then there are several electrical connectors behind this panel as well to disconnect:

 

Also these two screws need to be removed:

Back by the armrest, the wires that were plugged into the iDrive and parking brake are clipped to the center console. Use a flathead screwdriver or a metal panel clip release tool to pry the plastic retainers (Tesa tapped to the wires) out from the console, to release the harnesses from the console. Take pics of where they are clipped in, for reassembly - that's a good tip in general, and really the reason I captured most of these photos for myself:


Similarly release the harness that was plugged into the USB at the rear of the center console, if you didn't release it earlier:

 

You remove the rear seat air vent by removing this Torx 20 screw.


Once that screw is removed, you just lift it out. Note as you take it out where it inserts into in your dashbaord - that's where it's going to need to be inserted when you put it back:


There's a clip that needs to be popped out where the shifter cable meets the base of the shifter. This doesn't release the shifter from the cable, but it releases the shifter cable housing from the shifter assembly. It releases by using a metal pry tool like this or even a flathead screwdriver:

This is what it looks like when you remove it - it pops out pretty easily.

 

Now remove the four 10mm nuts that hold the shifter to the car.

Once you remove those, you won't be able to remove the shifter until you release the electrical harness from the shifter by prying their plastic retainers from where they attach to the shifter - similar to the earlier step where we unclipped the wire harnesses from the center console:




There's also an electrical connector plugged into the shifter, for the solenoid that's directly related to what we need to fix inside. You can see its release tab in this photo, press down on the release tab and I used my panel popper tool like a screwdriver here just to help slide it out without pulling on the wires:


Once you remove that connector, the last bit is to disconnect the shifter cable from the shifter.
You need to use the yellow shift release button to shift the shifter out of Park.
Move the shifter until this pin is visible through this hole in the bottom of the shfiter:


You need to carefully align the other side of it with the hole on the top side of the shifter, and push on the bottom side of this pin.
It will come out the top side, like this:


Now you can lift the shifter out of the car - I brought mine inside to my workbench where I could watch that YouTube video in the first post in the thread.
Note at 7:30 he makes that shifter cable pin removal way easier than it was for you, right?

On my workbench, I followed that YouTube video exactly, to replace the spring, and it worked well. This clearly wasn't the first time this guy has replaced this spring on one of these shifters. And I was pleased to find the job was pretty straightforward and simple while watching and pausing the video so I could follow it exactly.
But still - be careful, of course. Don't force anything.

Then, once you've fixed the shifter - re-assembly is exactly the reverse of disassembly.

 

Since I did take pictures, again I'd watch this video for the real steps:
But I did take pictures of a few details I thought were glossed over, so I'll add those here.

Really simple to remove that solenoid - just a gentle pry with a screwdriver:

This white arm is the culprit. It needs to come out. Note that it hinges on a pin that's just clipped into the housing above and below the center of the arm:

The red wire slides out easily from behind this retainer -

Then this board slides out easily:

I used a flathead screwdriver to poke both ends of the pin that holds that white arm in there and it popped out pretty easily:

 

Once you have that white arm out, the problem is probably just like that guy's, which is just like mine. Look at that broken spring!


I used a flathead to pry out that brass center pin that holds the spring in:


Important!
Start the spring like THIS - this orientation exactly, with the leg of the spring going through the plastic arm like this:


Then, you can move the hub of the spring over the hole in the arm and begin inserting the brass pin:


Then the other side of the arm needs to be pushed past the retainer on the arm...


...securing it behind the spring retainer so it is properly fully attached to the arm:


Finally, insert the metal pin through the brass pin, and insert that arm back in, in the correct orientation. Use a screwdriver to push both ends of the metal pin into the plastic seats. It doesn't really clip with a satisfying "click" or anything, so confirm both ends of the pin are fully seated.


Final note - when reassembling, he mentioned some brand name of fancy grease.
By all means, if you have that, use it. It's probably the best of the best, who knows.
If you Google it, you'll see it's a type of Lithium Grease. I didn't have that, but I had Lithium Grease, so I used my Lithium Grease pretty liberally.

Mine has been fixed for several weeks now, and seems to be working fine.

Like the center console, re-assembling the shifter is the reverse of disassembly.

Good luck!