F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+) MINI Cooper and Cooper S (F55/F56) hatchback discussions.

F55/F56 Installing Powerflex Upper Engine Mount Inserts in F56S without removing headlight

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Old Apr 11, 2024 | 08:07 PM
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Installing Powerflex Upper Engine Mount Inserts in F56S without removing headlight

FYI you can easily insert the PowerFlex Upper Engine Mount inserts into a F56 S Mini Cooper while the upper engine mount is still bolted in place.

Mine is a 2021 Mini Cooper S.

My vehicle only has about 15,000 miles on it, so I think the upper engine mount still has plenty of useful life in it, but I decided to install the PowerFlex Upper Engine Mount inserts to potentially extend its useful life and maybe prevent the mount from failing, but time will tell.

Instead of removing the right side headlight, you can gain easy access to the upper engine mount by removing the right front wheel arch cover (easier with the wheel removed and the car on jack stands).

With the upper engine mount now accessible, you can then slide the PowerFlex inserts into place with the help of silicone lubricant.

Reinstall the wheel arch cover, and you are done. The process took less than an hour.

I did not notice any new vibrations with the PowerFlex inserts in place, and time will tell if they prolong the life of the upper engine mount.



With the MINI safely on jack stands, remove the engine skid cover via about a dozen 8mm screws

Support the bottom of engine and lift it slightly about 1/2”. I installed the PowerFlex Lower Engine Mount bushing last week as seen in the photo.

Remove the right side passenger wheel arch cover via about a dozen 8mm screws and about 4 push pin connectors. Some screws are on the bottom of the vehicle trim.

The upper engine mount is accessible with wheel arch cover removed.

Lots of silicone lubricant helps to ease the Powerflex inserts into place.

Final product prior to reinstalling wheel arch cover. Entire process took less than an hour.
 
Old Apr 15, 2024 | 01:59 PM
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Thats great! Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 08:31 PM
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Great write up, know it takes extra effort to take the pics and do all the drawing etc. Really appreciate it!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 01:40 PM
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From: Iowa
Thanks so much for this guide! Now that it's been 6 months, how are things?

Can you elaborate on what "easy" means in terms of inserting the inserts? I noticed the install guide said to use soapy water, I figured that'd be because it would dry and be stuck in there really well. But maybe even with the lube it'd still be hard to work its way out after 20k+ miles.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2024 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Calypso
Thanks so much for this guide! Now that it's been 6 months, how are things?

Can you elaborate on what "easy" means in terms of inserting the inserts? I noticed the install guide said to use soapy water, I figured that'd be because it would dry and be stuck in there really well. But maybe even with the lube it'd still be hard to work its way out after 20k+ miles.
The barbell shape of the inserts completely prevents them from "working their way out." No more than you can pull your hand through a handcuff that is affixed to your wrist as tightly as possible. Just as your hand can't casually "wiggle out," neither can the ends of the inserts.

You could maybe push or pull the inserts but removal would require travel, under force, in the same (or opposite) direction of original insertion (not to mention a good amount of lubricant).
 
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Old Nov 20, 2024 | 06:31 PM
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I am going to be replacing the headlight assemblies on my F55 with some LED retrofit units I ordered from ECS Tuning. In preparation of their arrival, I started fiddling with the headlight assemblies to see just how hard it was to remove the screws that so many people have said are nearly impossible to remove without breaking the brackets. I saw a video where a guy mentioned the issue seems to be from Loctite being applied to the threads. I ordered 99% rubbing alcohol and a little squeeze bottle that has an L-shaped nozzle on the end that could reach the backs of all of the screws. I doused the screws in the rubbing alcohol, let sit for 15-20 minutes, then used some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench) and sprayed the screws with that, too. Slowly started turning the screws and all of them came out without damaging the bracket. I also experimented with using an adjustable wrench to squeeze the metal cage around the nut. That works for all of the screws except the ones on the very bottom you can’t get to the back of. Anyway, hoping what I did may help someone else get their lights off without issue just in case someone wanted to install the inserts without having to undo the wheel well liners as you mentioned.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2025 | 04:28 PM
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UPDATE: upper engine mount still failed at 30,000 miles

***** UPDATE:

My upper engine mount just failed at 30,000 miles despite inserting the PowerFlex inserts at 15,000 miles as noted at the beginning of this thread (Installed PowerFlex inserts 19 months ago):

I attached pictures that show the black fluid oozing from both side sides of the bottom of the engine mount. There are no symptoms while driving the car such as vibrations or clunking, but I’m sure that is soon to follow.

I just ordered the GP3 upper engine mount with new mounting bolts and the 3 headlight adjustment screws, and I will install them once I receive them. I will reinstall the power flex inserts and hopefully get more than 30,000 miles on the new mount!

 

Last edited by blavid1; Sep 22, 2025 at 05:11 PM.
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