My daughter's R52 has a weird issue with the top. It seems to get stuck right after the windows roll down on the 2nd stage. I can see at 1m 46s in the video ​​below ​​​​​that the sunroof is supposed to retract just a little more before the top starts opening.




Mine doesn't do that little final pull back, it gets "stuck" there, for lack of a better word. I can reset the top by opening the relief valve on the sunroof and manually opening and closing the roof (even though the top of the sunroof basically brushes against the back of the headrests) After I do that, the sunroof will close and lock itself again.

Other factors:

• I 100% have that little microswitch on the parcel shelf depressed. I'm going to go out and make sure that switch is still connected properly later this evening. If it was the switch, is this exactly where it would fail?
• I just replaced the top controller module as that's what the Mini dealer's $300 diagnostic said was wrong with it... ugh.
• I did the windows reset (down, hold 4 sec, up, hold 4 sec, repeat) as well if that matters.
• The hydraulic fluid reservoir appears to be full to the fill line with fluid.
• After it gets stuck, if I try to close it, it will sometimes make this awful binding sound...

I made this video to show you the sound





Again, this seems to get "unstuck" by opening and closing the top using the bypass screw on the pump.

Anyone have any clue about what's going on or something to try next? I'm not super familiar with convertible tops and rapidly running out of ideas. Is it possible there's some sensor mis-aligned somewhere? Maybe a cable bound up? That the sunroof closes and reopens after a reset makes me think at least some of the cables don't seem to be jammed. Is there a way to check them all for binding?

Thanks!

 

There are a bunch of sensors and switches that have to be in the right spot. This link contains some useful convertible top docs http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/
It seems everything is operating mechanically which makes me think there might be an intermittent fault from one (or more) of the sensors. In your second clip the red light is flashing when you push the button which indicates its sensing an error somewhere I think. The small sunroof motion before the roof opens is it unlocking the roof latches, and it wont do that unless its detected the correct inputs from the sensors for both the rear shelf and the "tensioning hoop".
FWIW to open all the windows should be a one touch push of the window button, IIRC you dont have to hold it down to open, just to close. If you hold the roof button for a few seconds after the roof has roof has opened all the way then the windows should then go back up as part of the opening sequence. The roof on the 2nd gen R57 is essentially the same, there is a pdf of the service manual for that in the files area of the Facebook group "Mini Cooper DIY Help", I tried to upload it here but its too big for me to attach.

The joys of owning a 20+ year old british car with german brains and a pretty complicated roof mechanism...Good Luck

 

One thing I've noticed now is that the left side lock won't open. I actually can get it to open the sunroof now to the second stage 'lock pullback' (that happens after the windows roll down), but then the right side lock disengages while the left doesn't. I can manually open the left side, but that doesn't seem to be enough. My kid reminded me that when we -first- opened the top, there was some weird cable noises like cables moving around in there loosely that we don't hear any more. It seems weird to me that the lock won't disengage but the sunroof pulls back... isn't it just one cable? Could the cable have skipped a tooth and is now not properly aligned with the other side?

 

One of the common failure mechanisms reported here is failure of that engagement mechanism breaking, and unfortunately the common fix is to replace the whole of the assembly as its not a part available on its own, which is not the quickest or easiest jobs. There was some discussion I think of 3D printing the bit but I dont know if it ever went anywhere. There are a few threads here regarding the failure of one side or the other of the engagement mechanism:(
If anything has broken its probably this bit.https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-top-part.html

 

I'm almost 100% sure this is what is going on. It appears that this bit is somewhat hidden in the channel of the rail, which explains why I can't see it. I know the locking arm itself isn't broken because I can slide it back and forth on its little plastic guide rail and it opens and closes the lock. The good news is that the rest of the top works perfectly if I manually open that rail up and I was able to find an entire complete left side arm on eBay...the bad news is that it was $300 shipped but at least when I replace the arm, I think the entire top should just start working again.

REALY appreciate the help on this!

 

Just saw this, that sounds like the culprit.

 

Replacement arm should be in on Monday. Does anyone have any good links to instructions on how to replace this piece? I saw the 4-part series someone posted on how to replace the sliding mechanism. I'm assuming it's similar with peeling back the top, then unbolting the sliding mechanism from the metal top piece, then unbolting a few bolts at the back, removing the cable motor, then just pulling the cable out and reverse the procedure, pushing the new cable into the tube, etc.? Any kind of lube go on the cable or mechanism while I have it apart?

Thanks!

 

Just that one link above. Cables has bunch of DIY which are linked that's the only one of that section. BMW and MINI TIS (tech repair) you have to pay for now: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

Make sure you clean the rails where things slide when dismantled and re-grease with sunroof grease and WD40, WD40 helps clean out the gunk also with a cue tip

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/83192157321/



https://www.ecstuning.com/b-wd_40-pa...-ways/49005kt/

 

I picked up a used replacement arm and got it today. It came with the striker plate included...but I'm not sure how to open the lock and release the plate. Pulling on the cable moderately hasn't opened it. Does anyone know how to get the lock to unlock so I can install it? Do you just pull the cable hard enough and the lock will open or is there some other mechanism that actuates the lock?

Thanks for all the help!

 

Hello, just saw this, did you get it fixed?