R60 2013 countryman S, seeking help on axle seal and water pump pulley
2013 countryman S, seeking help on axle seal and water pump pulley
I wish I had a mechanic that I trusted.
Nevertheless the local dealer and a separate BMW non-dealer service center both mentioned to me that my passenger side axle seal is leaking. Neither mentioned how bad it is but were eager to fix it. Is there a general eye test to see know bad it is? Also, is it not recommended to use something like ATP AT-205 Re-Seal? Too good to be true?
The BMW service center also mentioned to be that the rubber water pump pulley is cracked. Is this something to worry about? I've read places that the rubber cracking is normal and does not affect the grip on the belt.
Any advice is appreciated.
Nevertheless the local dealer and a separate BMW non-dealer service center both mentioned to me that my passenger side axle seal is leaking. Neither mentioned how bad it is but were eager to fix it. Is there a general eye test to see know bad it is? Also, is it not recommended to use something like ATP AT-205 Re-Seal? Too good to be true?
The BMW service center also mentioned to be that the rubber water pump pulley is cracked. Is this something to worry about? I've read places that the rubber cracking is normal and does not affect the grip on the belt.
Any advice is appreciated.
Probably a horrible Idea to use any sort of stop-leak junk....plus the transmission doesnt exactly have any sort of easily accessible fill port. At least my All4 certainly doesnt.
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
Probably a horrible Idea to use any sort of stop-leak junk....plus the transmission doesnt exactly have any sort of easily accessible fill port. At least my All4 certainly doesnt.
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
Probably a horrible Idea to use any sort of stop-leak junk....plus the transmission doesnt exactly have any sort of easily accessible fill port. At least my All4 certainly doesnt.
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
If the leak is bad enough youll have transmission fluid (red) on the ground. If they are just seeing some staining on the transmission, it may be ok for a bit longer. I think this can be only a few hundred bucks at a shop to do.
The pulley is rubber on metal...so it really depends how bad the cracks are...if its just superficial little cracking, then you also may be ok. I would wait until you inevitably have to replace the water pump, thermostat, and the POS plastic pipe that connects the two.. Thats a 12-1500 job in itself (at a shop).
I also agree not to use snake oil stop-leaks in a transmission. Some people have such great luck with them, on coolant, oil, etc., but I never have. For me they've always caused more harm than good. You add some stop leak to the trans, fix the axle seal via snake oil, and gum up the trans valve body, is what would happen to me, smoke the entire transmission. To the person I'm quoting above, there is a procedure for refilling the automatic trans through the drain hole if the "stand pipe" is present inside of that hole, but that is a nightmare to have to do. I got to learn that when I accidentally removed the trans drain plug instead of the oil drain plug, because I'm an idiot. But supposedly there is a transmission fill hole somewhere further than I was able/willing to find...biscuits maybe that was on a manual trans car though.
Don't be like me, be smarter....I don't set a high bar.
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MarioKart
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Nov 13, 2006 07:55 AM







