During an inspection on our '12 MCS the tech noted the rubber on the water pump pulley is starting to crack.

We have 51K miles on it.

Has anyone else seen this?

 

Yes, a few recently.

It's part no. 51-16-7-313-238 - appx $37.00.

 

Thank you.

 

Yes we've been seeing this as the cars get older. The rubber wears just like the drive belt. I've been keeping them in stock since seeing this.

http://www.waymotorworks.com/water-p...9-r60-r61.html

 

Came off a MINI Friday.

Rubber coating on pulley cracks.

 

Pulley is part number 11517619020

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11517619020/




You can get to it from the bottom of the car, its a little tight next to the side firewall. The three bolts can be a pain but a 10mm small box end wrench fits in there fine.

Thanks

 

Would this cause an intermittent light squeaking noise that comes and goes at idle? Clutch in or out does not make a difference. Seems to be engine-speed related. Unable to duplicate the noise. Just comes and goes as it pleases.

 

The SW told us to have it replaced if noise started.

 

Had wife's 2011 Clubby in for 30K service today. Tech found cracked water pump pulley, replaced under warranty, Have no clue where it is located must have been done from under car, sure couldn't see any by opening the hood or whatever they call it. Next time I am going to ask if I can see under car when it up on rack. I am to old to jack it up and crawl around under it on a cold garage floor.

Tom

 

We see this a fair amount. 99.9% of the time we have them in stock.

$30.10 plus shippng from your one stop shop for OEM Parts - MINIPartsMass.com!

http://www.minipartsmass.com/parts/i...&siteid=215989


Happy Motoring!

 

Unearthing oldish thread.

Any idea what the cost would be for this replacement, labor wise? DealerStealer wants $438.

 

Just had my wife's 2012 into the dealer for service. Yep, cracking water pump pulley. They wanted about $400 to replace..

 

Over priced repair, it is three bolts and do not even need to take the belt off... that works out at around $120 per bolt plus the part! It is a case of 1) raise car safely 2) 10mm wrench 3) band aid plasters for knuckles

 

Yep, should be like 30min to do it even if you have never done it, if you take your time., those little bolts are hard to reach and then fiddling it around the tight space in there, take a pry bar and move the engine over a hair give you more room. Then wedge rubber in there.

 

Do you know if the access to the Countryman 2011 R60 is the same? I realize same engine, but the Bentley doesn't do Countryman. I don't have the car here so I can't look at it now.

 

Yes it is the same horse from underneath, subframe, etc. Same tight access but you'll be fine.

 

I have seen it and there is much more room in the CM and PM engine bay, the R55-R59 are very tight. I used a long 10mm racheting box end wrench in there to reach it. My tool had a bent end so it made it easier.

 

Resurrecting this thread as I need to get this done as well.

Doesn't the tension on the belt make this a little bit trickier? I assume it would be difficult to get the old pulley off and put a new pulley in place while dealing with the belt.

I've been looking for a diy guide but can't find one. I have a r60 countryman s but assume the work is the same.

 

The water pump is actually run off of a friction wheel, that is driven by the belt.
there is a release to de-tension the spring and pull the wheel away from the pulley, then it’s 3 bolts. But it’s a good time to replace the belt while you are in there, if you are up to it.
Pelican parts has a pretty good diy for doing it.
I just did mine a few weeks ago, along with the water pump and friction wheel too. It’s not too bad, but you may have to drop that side of the motor to get to the bolts. The best way to do it is to remove the front passenger side wheel and the fender lining, and it’s right there.
There aren’t really any guides for a countryman out there unfortunately. The good news is almost everything is pretty close to being the same as the other Mini’s. So just find the diy for a gen 2, R56 with an N18 and you can use that to do almost everything on a R60

 

Just when you thought dealer prices were ridiculous... They should be ashamed of themselves. $400 is crazy. How can they justify that for such a simple job?

 

Here's my video of me replacing my pulley and water pump.

 

I just replaced one of these because the rubber was cracking... and two days later the rubber came completely off the new pulley. WTF... The preventive repair caused the thing that the repair was supposed to resolve.

Also - it is not necessary to put car into front end service mode to detension the belt. Jack up the car/put car on lift, flip the tool around, and de-tension from underneath. You may need someone to press on the de-tensioning pin, although it's possible to do with one person if you have a creative stance.

 

I did my swap completely from underneath without issue, bit of a pia but it sure beats service mode.

 

Yep, just took mine some time on the rack from the underside and little pry bar helps.

 

ECS, I don't have jackstands, I have ramps. Can I pull the pulley out the same way you are talking about using the lift? Oh by the way... just came back from the dealer to replace the footwell module. Their inspection said I have about $10k of accumulated repairs that needs to be done... they basically totaled out my Mini Countryman.