2005 R53 at service
2005 R53 at service
Hi,
Recently i bought a 2005 R53 with 46.000 miles on it. Just shortly it started giving me some trouble, like going into limp mode and throwing the P1688 code. By browsing through the wisdom of this forum we were able to diagnose a failed crank pulley. We are in the process of changing it, along with the S/C pulley (15% reduction), belt, rollers and tensioner. The other thing I’m changing is the clutch, went for the LUK OEM replacement.
So, in light of these 2 tasks and considering that the engine will be loosen out, what else would you recommend checking or replacing? For example, replace the water pump?, any seals? Just the most common things that are hard to reach when the engine is on.
I’ll really appreciate all your collaboration.
francisco
Recently i bought a 2005 R53 with 46.000 miles on it. Just shortly it started giving me some trouble, like going into limp mode and throwing the P1688 code. By browsing through the wisdom of this forum we were able to diagnose a failed crank pulley. We are in the process of changing it, along with the S/C pulley (15% reduction), belt, rollers and tensioner. The other thing I’m changing is the clutch, went for the LUK OEM replacement.
So, in light of these 2 tasks and considering that the engine will be loosen out, what else would you recommend checking or replacing? For example, replace the water pump?, any seals? Just the most common things that are hard to reach when the engine is on.
I’ll really appreciate all your collaboration.
francisco
my 46000 miles old mini crank pulley broke. so I'm going for a new ATI damper crank pulley, new belt, new belt tensioner, new rollers and a 15% sc pulley.
also i'll be changing my clutch, as it had gone pretty hard to operate in the last months
While i had this problem, i also saw some overheating, coolant leak from teh reservoir and noise from the pulley side. i'm inclined to think as the crank pulley wasn't working, the water pump wasn`t doing it's job so it overheated the engine, what is quite logical. but i'm a little scared, as i've read a lot about water pump failures because of blown supercharger drives.
in your experience, should i have a look to the water pump and drives on the SC? as the car will be en service mode (all front out) should i change the water pump without hesitation?....i'm a little short on money and i'm doing a lot of stuff, but i don't want to return to the mechanic in a long while....
thanks in advance.....
also i'll be changing my clutch, as it had gone pretty hard to operate in the last months
While i had this problem, i also saw some overheating, coolant leak from teh reservoir and noise from the pulley side. i'm inclined to think as the crank pulley wasn't working, the water pump wasn`t doing it's job so it overheated the engine, what is quite logical. but i'm a little scared, as i've read a lot about water pump failures because of blown supercharger drives.
in your experience, should i have a look to the water pump and drives on the SC? as the car will be en service mode (all front out) should i change the water pump without hesitation?....i'm a little short on money and i'm doing a lot of stuff, but i don't want to return to the mechanic in a long while....
thanks in advance.....
With only 46K both your SC and water pump should be fine (clutch, too IMO)
If the water pump wasn't turning, you've have more than just 'some' overheating. If the crank bit it, and the SC wasn't turning, that would do it.
But 'noise from the pulley side' is concerning. If the WP gears were going, you'd hear the sound from the rear, where the PTO is located.
I'd probably at least R&R the water pump and make sure that the gears are in good shape and it has a fill of the proper lube. If the gears are good, you shouldn't need a new one. This would also let you check the SC nose gears/fluid and confirm that the SC is operating properly.
If the water pump wasn't turning, you've have more than just 'some' overheating. If the crank bit it, and the SC wasn't turning, that would do it.
But 'noise from the pulley side' is concerning. If the WP gears were going, you'd hear the sound from the rear, where the PTO is located.
I'd probably at least R&R the water pump and make sure that the gears are in good shape and it has a fill of the proper lube. If the gears are good, you shouldn't need a new one. This would also let you check the SC nose gears/fluid and confirm that the SC is operating properly.
eric, thanks, you're right, the sound was from the pulley side, not the WP...my mechanic told me it might have been the belt tensioner, which will be replaced.
i checked on realoem if by removing the WP i need to replace anything, like a gasket or sth, but found nothing, is it ok?
quikmni, i'll leave this for another time, i live in chile and didn't buy bushings this time...and with 10 days of shipping plus the 20 it has been on the garage....it would be too much for me to stand...jajaja....i'm desperate need of my mini....
thank you again for your time and please keep posting ideas...
i'll let you know how it turns out next week....
i checked on realoem if by removing the WP i need to replace anything, like a gasket or sth, but found nothing, is it ok?
quikmni, i'll leave this for another time, i live in chile and didn't buy bushings this time...and with 10 days of shipping plus the 20 it has been on the garage....it would be too much for me to stand...jajaja....i'm desperate need of my mini....
thank you again for your time and please keep posting ideas...
i'll let you know how it turns out next week....
The WP seals to the supercharger with an anaerobic sealant, no seal or gasket. You would need more lube though.
from another poster:
waterpump drive side- 2.5oz; nose gear side(pulley side)5.5oz
GM part #12345982 4oz tube
Recommended sealant is Yama bond, from a Yamaha dealer.
from another poster:
waterpump drive side- 2.5oz; nose gear side(pulley side)5.5oz
GM part #12345982 4oz tube
Recommended sealant is Yama bond, from a Yamaha dealer.
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