I think I'm on approximately my 6th front crankshaft seal in 2 years. The most recent one was installed about this time last year (2023) when I rebuilt the engine. At that point, I replaced the hub that pinches the timing chain drive gear, as this hub is what runs inside of the front crankshaft seal. The old hub was pretty scored up and contributed to going through seals leaking. I've used Elring, Victor Reinz, and Fel-Pro at different times.

The last seal (vistor reinz) , that survived 1 year, had the bottom outer lip pulled away from the crank hub. If one can imagine how dried out rubber things sometimes don't maintain their shape and look wavy. That's how it looked. So I removed, cleaned, inspected, everything was fine. I then installed a new seal (elring) using the plastic guide that comes with the seal, and gently and evenly tapped the seal in with a board, punch, and hammer. Careful to only put pressure at the metal backed area, gently, and evenly as possible. I acknowledge that I did not use the special install tool, but that has never been a problem before. I then filled with the fancy green 0W-40 that ECS sells.

The new seal appears to be leaking. So I've ordered another Victor Reinz seal, AND the special install tool, and will use the same oil but in 5w-40w this time.

What I'm really lost on, is why this keeps happening. The first few seals I understand because the crank hub was damaged. The new hub shows no signs of rubbing, so pushing the seal in a little further, or not as far, to seal n a different part of the hub doesn't apply. I also don't know what made the lip of the last seal curl away from the crank hub.

Possibilites of current leak include piston blow by (can do a compression test), bad PCV causing excessive crankcase pressure, and just a bad job of installing the latest seal. Can anyone think of possibilities I'm missing? Does anyone put some kind of sealant where the outside diameter of the seal mates to the inside diameter of the crankcase?

 

Shortly after the last post I replaced the seal again with the proper tool....blah blah. Still leaked, actually had smoke from underneath one day as I pulled into work, as well as stinking of oil burning off. It was probably fine because the oil spatter/leak is nowhere near the exhaust but.... So I had it towed to a trusted semi-local indy shop ($350 tow truck ride, ouch).

Semi-local independent shop says they cleaned, test drove, then ran the engine while parked over cardboard and all is fine. It's not. The bottom of the engine was wet when I got there after hours, it leaked driving it home, and is still leaking now from goodness knows where.

Compression checks out fine. I guess replace the pcv/valve cover again?...

I'm so [bad word] tired of this car. Alas when it behaves, it's fun to drive. Might just insist on getting to drive it into a scrapyard crusher.

 

I've done my seal twice, once at around 120K (when I did the timing chain) and the second around 190K (lost a belt took seal out) both times i used a large socket to put the seal in no leaking issues either time.
I do know my valve cover would start leaking when I needed to replace my PCV valve

 

Thanks for the reply and perspective, it was getting lonely in here. I've put them in tapping around with a wide punch, a 3/8" socket extension, and a large socket just like yourself. Most of them worked great. But as I kept having problems lately, I bought the seal installer out of desperation.

There was a small indication of an oil leak from the pcv/valve cover, in the right area for the problem I'm having. So weekend before last replaced the pcv/valve cover. For the first couple of days it really seemed to be getting better, the oil leak and oil smell in the cabin that is. Then this past weekend I had about a 2 hour drive north. The next morning, I was almost off the dipstick low on oil (not below the bulb part), and the snow under my car had oil drips all over (under the serpentine belt area, and along the frame of the car where wind blows the oil along the frame). So, I guess it wasn't a pcv/valve cover problem and replacing it likewise was useless.

As I have no good way of knowing what is going to fix it, I think this is the end of this car for me.

 

This is really the only Forum for these, and there are lots of posts that Dead end. .. I have been chasing a stuck/ clogged fuel vent for 2 years now that leave me with an annoying slow fill up but at almost 200K of me driving and wrenching I'm too emotionally invested to give up (on the bright side it doesn't own me anything)

 

Indeed. I know there are at least 2 more I sometimes reference but haven't joined. Sorry to hear that, sadly I have no advice on that issue. I do understand how you feel. That's where I was when I took the engine apart last fall. But I do feel it owes me some after all that. Read your signature, impressive, good on you. I wanted to get mine to 200k but, broken record here, I think I'm just over it.

EDIT: Well, to be honest, if I had a solid answer and "x" part for "x" dollars would solve the leaking and smelling, I would more than likely do it. But, I don't have that and don't want to throw a catalytic converter, more oil changes, another crank seal, and who knows what else until it's fixed. Much less break the engine down again and still not resolved.

 

hey I know its the rear main on a R55 but seems like solid advice
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4263404
"First thought that comes to mind is to:
1. Lube the shaft generously, especially around the sharp edge
2. Wrap the shaft to include the sharp edge with a cheap vinyl document protector, cut it to fit, so it wraps once or twice around, making it longer than the shaft so it can act as a guide for the seal, and you can hang onto it when you initially slide the seal over it. Use scotch tape to keep it from unwrapping if necessary.
3. Generously Lube the cover and the seal.
4. Put the Rear main seal in.
5. Once the seal is beyond the sharp edge pull the wrap straight off in line and away from the crank.

Try to find the doc protectors that are harder vice the ones that feel like saran wrap.
Not to insult your intelligence but Id test it with the torn one first

Good Luck
Bruce"
from
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ing-wrong.html

 

Thanks for that, I appreciate it and is good advice. The only thing I didn't do per that advice is the plastic sleeve, but I think because I used the plastic install guide that comes with a front crank seal, that should count as having followed every step. Honestly I think if anything it may be leaking on the outside of this seal and I believe in the first post I'd asked about using RTV on the outer part of teh seal where it touches the crankcase.

EDIT: Deleted my parting comment as was just being pessimistic and nasty towards myself the car, and doesn't do anyone good.