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driving my 04 mcs two weeks ago, car bucked twice and shut down on me. Cranks, nothing happens. Then it would randomly restart and stay running for short period of time. backed it off flatbed under its own power, put in driveway, shut it off, hasn't run since. Installed new fuel pump and new crank sensor. no change. Removed intercooler, I have plenty of pressure at fuel rail. No start even on starting fluid. Remove spark plugs, bone dry. Crank over, no spark. remove harness from coil, test for 12 volts at red terminal, nothing. Tried both keys, no change. Both keys make the car chime with door open. Both keys chime when either inserted or placed near ignition switch.
Begging for help here since as of now all I have is big red paperweight.
Ensure that the top on the fuel pump canister is completely seated (turned as far as it will go). I replaced my fuel pump and failed to seat it correctly and it would not start. It's a closed system so it's critical that the seal is perfect. Once sealed it started right up. Electrical issue sounds like a bad coil. Be sure that the plug on the back of the coil hasn't been compromised in some way.
i have pressure on the fuel rail injectors are not firing as plugs are not wet. coil was checked with a known good coil. no spark if plug is held up against metal and cranked over.
Check the K6300 relay, is main relay for DME(digital motor electronics control unit).Easy way to check is to swap K6300 with K19 relay(K19 is used for AC Clutch).
Check fuse F02-20A.
If all is OK, than must change DME, sometimes old EMS 2000 fail after some time.
Also open the bonnet, take a good sniff .... does it smell like burnt rubber? Look all around the Pulley side of the lower engine bay, is it covered in what looks like black sand? If these two conditions exists it is the main pulley (vibration damper) it is the rubber insert between the metal parts of the Crank Pulley ... take a look at this...
I did try swapping relays but will try again. I did check all the fuses, one at a time, under the hood and they are all good. I will check the pulley tonight after work. I was thinking ignition switch but figured cranking would also be affected if switch was defective. I also checked compression and have 140 or higher in all cylinders. I was also fearing a broken cam.
I did try swapping relays but will try again. I did check all the fuses, one at a time, under the hood and they are all good. I will check the pulley tonight after work. I was thinking ignition switch but figured cranking would also be affected if switch was defective. I also checked compression and have 140 or higher in all cylinders. I was also fearing a broken cam.
No the start circuit is different than the run circuit, in the switch, so it can turn over, but not start and this does happen from time to time.(not often, but I have one now in the shop, that I suspect the same. Turns over no spark. I can hear the fuel pump pressure the fuel system. I really have not had the time to work on it yet.
There are only 5 or 6 wires at the switch, can it be unplugged and bypassed to see if it'll start??
No, because ECU don't open your injectors for some reasons.If you have spark but not fuel i guess ECU is dead.
To bad is a big distance between Europe and USA, ,i have alwsys 2 or 3 ECU with immo off, just plug and play,i use them in such a case to start the cars with broken ECU.
