Good day to all,

I am about to do a seafoam treatment to my 2011 MCS (N14 ENGINE) and was wondering if someone had exact instructions on how to do it. I want to clean the combustion chamber and all carbon deposits (heard it had to go in the pcv hose, but how much of the bottle and how slow/fast I have to do it to not blow up my engine ?). was wondering if I had to clean the throttle body too ?

thanks !

 

Seafoam won't really do much for your engine I'm afraid. Most of the carbon buildup to be worried about happens on the backs of the intake valves, and carbon deposits are hard and gummy. Running some fluid over them won't do much. If you want to clean carbon deposits (assuming you have them), walnut blasting is the only way.

 

Thank you Thebombardier for your second answer, im starting to feel like you are my mini guru !! My wild guess after some research was that if I pour the seafoam in the PCV valve it would go through the intake manifold and into the intake valves and clean them off since I have only 45000 miles, it shouldn't be that bad.

I would love to have your feedback on this

 

I heard the best way to get to the valves are brake booster hose or PCV Valve I don't know which one to put It through ? some insight would be highly appreciated !

 

Had a Seafoam treatment done on my old BMW 540i, worked to clear a problem.

Some descriptions here http://www.detroittuned.com/sea-foam-n14/ on how to use it on your engine.

 

Thank you for the answer Minnie ! will do this as soon as I receive the can.
does the pcv hose lead to the intake valves ?

 

I followed this youtube video, and I had lots of smoke come out. But to be honest, didn't notice any difference.

 

It's steam. You're literally just evaporating the Seafoam and spewing it out the tailpipe.

 

+1 on the walnut blasting.

 

Another +1 on the Walnut blasting. The carbon is pretty well baked onto the intake valves, seafoam will do little to nothing..

 

The seafoam doesn't really stay in contact with anything long enough to clean efficiently.

 

need to pour it in a hot engine.. then let it sit for 40min - 1hr until cool; before starting and burning it out

*also works great in the gas, to help cleanup the injectors and funk that builds up on them! I also use some in my engine oil for the last few hundred miles before an oil change. Since starting with it, ive noticed my oil getting lighter (staying cleaner color) for longer between oil changes.

 

Ok, so thank you all for your advice. I did a carbon clean and the seafoam treatment and could see a difference in terms of hesitation. it used to bog under full acceleration and now it accelerates smoothly.
However it still feels restricted in high RPM (above 3000). when I accelerate it feels like it doesn't give me full power. I did a straight pipe before and can hear the exhaust much louder.
so when I accelerate past 3000 rpm the sound of the exhaust is meaner than the acceleration itself if you know what I mean.
I have a 2011 MCS with a stage 1 tune and I know it can be faster than that. I narrowed it down to either the catalytic being clogged, 
maf sensor or restricted Air flow.
If anyone had the same problem fixed it would be amazing.

 

So you did the walnut media blasting of the valves to de-carbonize the valves?

 

No no one does this in the part of the globe that I live in !! I did something similar that they call carbon cleaning. they put a hose in the front air intake, coming from a machine that converts air into hydrogen which creates small sparks inside the air channels to clean all the deposits such as carbon ... It made a huge difference on the bog/hesitation I had under acceleration but still the power is not there in high rpm, feels like the engine is restricted !

 

None of this makes any sense at all. Hydrogen atoms (in the form of water) are a tiny fraction of air (~1%), and converting liquid water to H2 can be done but not from the air like that. Second, spraying H2 on carbon won't cause sparks. Third, you can't pump air into an engine that isn't running since it will have nowhere to go unless you carefully set the engine rotation so you have a little valve overlap. In that case, you're just pushing all the deposits directly into the engine which is very bad. Do you know the actual brand name of the machine or process?

 

It is what the guy explained me. it may be my English explanation lacking technical words but the machine is called CALAMINE STOP. The car was actually idling during one hour when the machine was working. and every 15 minutes he would rev 3 times to let the deposits out of the exhaust. a little black smoke came out everytime.

 

1 Hour to disassemble the intake manifold, connect up the vac attachment, and bead blast 4 intake cylinders with the shop vac running. The attachment was $85, box of walnut shells from China Freight another $30? and noticeable improvement in engine performance.

The chem treatments don't do much - several shops in central florida started touting a chemical treatment - fogging something into the intake and letting it idle away, hour treatment, couple hundred bucks, supposed to improve performance, higher fuel mileage, allow you to pass smog checks. The Florida AG shut them down as being nothing more than snake oil.

Clean it the right way and blast it. And run good synthetic oil, change at regular intervals, and install a decent catch can.

 

He did it straight from the air intake in front of the car. The difference is noticeable !
My question was that even if I did notice a difference in terms of hesitation not being there anymore, at high RPM's the acceleration feels kinda slow like if the engine is restricted in a way. like it has dificulty breathing ? (the car is running perfect otherwise)
what can it be ?

 

Let's say it opened everything up a little so it now breaths 80% of what it did from the factory. If you ask for less than 80% of peak power, it will be perfectly fine. Only after trying to get more air through than it is capable of (80%-100%) will it choke. This could be entirely what's going on