Drivetrain Clutches & Flywheels...
Clutches & Flywheels...
I'm getting ready to replace the clutch and flywheel in my R55 fJCW. I bought the car new, so the current 50,000 miles have been essentially mine.
Anyway, the possibilities are the OEM setup, the SACHS branded clutch and dual-mass flywheel, an OSGiken STR and ClutchMasters Stage 1 or 2. Research indicates that SPEC and Valeo should drop off the list as they seem sort of + and -.
What I would like to wind up with is a better setup than the factory parts in terms of durability, but with about the same feel and pedal effort compared to the original parts. I would characterize my driving as "spirited" with maybe a few track days.
One concern is increased noise from units with single mass flywheels. Most of the accounts that I've seen are ~2 years old or older, so I'm wondering if that is still the case.
So, with these considerations in mind, what are the thoughts and experiences of the members here?
Thanks!
Anyway, the possibilities are the OEM setup, the SACHS branded clutch and dual-mass flywheel, an OSGiken STR and ClutchMasters Stage 1 or 2. Research indicates that SPEC and Valeo should drop off the list as they seem sort of + and -.
What I would like to wind up with is a better setup than the factory parts in terms of durability, but with about the same feel and pedal effort compared to the original parts. I would characterize my driving as "spirited" with maybe a few track days.
One concern is increased noise from units with single mass flywheels. Most of the accounts that I've seen are ~2 years old or older, so I'm wondering if that is still the case.
So, with these considerations in mind, what are the thoughts and experiences of the members here?
Thanks!
I wouldnt spend a dime more than rockauto oem spec unless I was racing in a class that allowed it or I had more power than oem could handle
budget for seals too, 50k for a clutch is a premature failure
budget for seals too, 50k for a clutch is a premature failure
Always heard really good things about OSGiken. I tend to steer clear from Clutch Masters. I just hear too many back and forth comments about that brand. I just recently had to do a new clutch job and ultimately ended up going with Competition Clutch. The car is a daily, but sees ample track time. I went with their stage 2 and the pedal feel is close to stock as well as the way it drives and engagement. Pretty happy with it so far. I'd tell you to look into them and see if they might suit your needs.
Also, while you're doing the job, we always add that it's a good idea to replace the rear end seal on the engine at the same time and also replace the throw-out bearing, flywheel bolts and pilot bearing. You can also replace the clutch release fork and the master/slave cylinders at the same time for added insurance. Just depends on how much you'd like to replace while you're in there for the job. We have all of those parts here if needed: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ion-Clutch.htm. Let me know if you have any questions.
Also, while you're doing the job, we always add that it's a good idea to replace the rear end seal on the engine at the same time and also replace the throw-out bearing, flywheel bolts and pilot bearing. You can also replace the clutch release fork and the master/slave cylinders at the same time for added insurance. Just depends on how much you'd like to replace while you're in there for the job. We have all of those parts here if needed: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ion-Clutch.htm. Let me know if you have any questions.
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I'v got about 4 years and maybe 45K miles on my OS Giken. It's been a daily driver with a few track days, and more HP than you can imagine. While it's apart for an engine rebuild, an inspection shows minimal wear and tear on clutch surfaces --- it's going back together as is. Well worth the extra bucks it cost.
obw:
Which OS Giken model do you have and how does it compare to stock regarding feel, pedal effort and noise? I've heard that they are noisier but it goes down quite a bit between 500 and 1000 miles. As I understand, the noise is related to being a single mass instead of a dual mass flywheel.
Which OS Giken model do you have and how does it compare to stock regarding feel, pedal effort and noise? I've heard that they are noisier but it goes down quite a bit between 500 and 1000 miles. As I understand, the noise is related to being a single mass instead of a dual mass flywheel.
obw:
Which OS Giken model do you have and how does it compare to stock regarding feel, pedal effort and noise? I've heard that they are noisier but it goes down quite a bit between 500 and 1000 miles. As I understand, the noise is related to being a single mass instead of a dual mass flywheel.
Which OS Giken model do you have and how does it compare to stock regarding feel, pedal effort and noise? I've heard that they are noisier but it goes down quite a bit between 500 and 1000 miles. As I understand, the noise is related to being a single mass instead of a dual mass flywheel.
Also, the light flywheel makes for awesome acceleration (gotta admit to over-building for HP) --- love it!
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According to the OSGiken.net website:
STR = Billet Aluminum Clutch Cover
1 = Single Plate
C = 215mm Diameter
D = Spring Dampened Disc
And yes, it is still listed on their site for Gen 2 MINIs. Interesting that the diameter is slightly smaller than the OE parts (228mm for N14 and 235mm for N18).
One other question I forgot to ask:
Is the engagement fairly progressive or is it more like an On/Off switch?
There's a graphic on the website that suggests that the GT series and the STR series are fairly similar in the power level that they can transfer, but the STR leans a bit more towards track usage.
STR = Billet Aluminum Clutch Cover
1 = Single Plate
C = 215mm Diameter
D = Spring Dampened Disc
And yes, it is still listed on their site for Gen 2 MINIs. Interesting that the diameter is slightly smaller than the OE parts (228mm for N14 and 235mm for N18).
One other question I forgot to ask:
Is the engagement fairly progressive or is it more like an On/Off switch?
There's a graphic on the website that suggests that the GT series and the STR series are fairly similar in the power level that they can transfer, but the STR leans a bit more towards track usage.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-...tch/ES2527243/
I talked to a guy who only does BMW and MINI repair and he said that Sachs and Valeo are OEMs for BMW. No word about SACHS, but Valeo seems to have a hit and miss quality record from what I've read here. Anyway, this clutch would fit my fJCW, but they don't offer a flywheel for it. SACHS does, however.
Given the premature failure, part of the equation for me is increased durability. At a minimum the more street oriented OSGiken models are rated at 280 ft-lb. That's the kind of safety factor I'm looking for. I just don't want to do ~ $2500 again anytime soon.
Last edited by flatlander_48; Sep 3, 2016 at 10:56 AM.
According to the OSGiken.net website:
STR = Billet Aluminum Clutch Cover
1 = Single Plate
C = 215mm Diameter
D = Spring Dampened Disc
And yes, it is still listed on their site for Gen 2 MINIs. Interesting that the diameter is slightly smaller than the OE parts (228mm for N14 and 235mm for N18).
One other question I forgot to ask:
Is the engagement fairly progressive or is it more like an On/Off switch?
There's a graphic on the website that suggests that the GT series and the STR series are fairly similar in the power level that they can transfer, but the STR leans a bit more towards track usage.
STR = Billet Aluminum Clutch Cover
1 = Single Plate
C = 215mm Diameter
D = Spring Dampened Disc
And yes, it is still listed on their site for Gen 2 MINIs. Interesting that the diameter is slightly smaller than the OE parts (228mm for N14 and 235mm for N18).
One other question I forgot to ask:
Is the engagement fairly progressive or is it more like an On/Off switch?
There's a graphic on the website that suggests that the GT series and the STR series are fairly similar in the power level that they can transfer, but the STR leans a bit more towards track usage.
I can't comment on how "progressive" mine is. If it was like an "on / off switch", I probably wouldn't be able to use it on the streets. Launching from a dead stop, takes a bit of clutch slipping --- intentional gradual engagement. More so at the drag strip. Shifting gears, it's more like your "on / off switch", letting it grab right now! It's all up to the driver and how the pedal is worked.
I doubt if there's any 2nd gen mini's that can produce more power than this clutch can handle. I tried but blew the engine instead. Drove 312WHP for a couple years. Blew it up after a few months at 360WHP.
I can't comment on how "progressive" mine is. If it was like an "on / off switch", I probably wouldn't be able to use it on the streets. Launching from a dead stop, takes a bit of clutch slipping --- intentional gradual engagement. More so at the drag strip. Shifting gears, it's more like your "on / off switch", letting it grab right now! It's all up to the driver and how the pedal is worked.
Paraphrasing that old Carnegie Hall joke:
How do you get from one stoplight to the next?
VERY carefully!
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