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R56 R56 Base P0120, P2102, P1639, P1638, P1637

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Old Sep 3, 2015 | 09:29 PM
  #1  
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thadscottmoore
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R56 Base P0120, P2102, P1639, P1638, P1637

While driving today in city traffic, I went to accelerate and felt a very brief hesitation followed by engine fail safe mode moments later. Codes P0120, P2102, P1639, P1638, P1637 are displaying in OBD2 diagnostics. Could someone narrow down possible culprit from these combined codes?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 07:53 AM
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From: Lumberton, Tx
Originally Posted by thadscottmoore
While driving today in city traffic, I went to accelerate and felt a very brief hesitation followed by engine fail safe mode moments later. Codes P0120, P2102, P1639, P1638, P1637 are displaying in OBD2 diagnostics. Could someone narrow down possible culprit from these combined codes?
P0120 throttle pedal position sensor /switch A.
P2102 throttle actuator control motor circuit low
P1638 throttle valve position control; throttle stuck temporarily.
P1639 throttle valve position control: throttle stuck permanently.
P1637 throttle valve position control: control deviation.

So I know it has some to do with throttle valve and or accelerator pedal and or ecm and or wiring harness faulty. Tried cleaning throttle body intake valve last night with crc with no luck. Anyone experienced with this problem? Welcome input.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:29 PM
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Have you attempted to start the engine since you cleaned the throttle body actuator? I'd be surprised if you were able to start your Mini after manually moving the actuator, usually when you move it, the adaptation value needs to be applied for it to work again. This happened when I had my intake valves clean, they were cleaning off the oil residue from the throttle body and actuator. Simply moving the actuator with the engine off puts it out of whack. I'd bet it's you throttle body actuator that's bad, they go bad just like any other sensor.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 01:38 PM
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yes, I did start it with no problems. guess I got lucky. I had to work today and had very little time last night to fully diagnose the problem. I will be checking it thoroughly this evening and tomorrow. thanks for the input. every bit helps...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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It's a long shot but the fact that it didn't need the throttle adaptation value reprogrammed might mean you might still have an issue with your throttle actuator, if the sensor is faulty it may not have registered any movement at all when you cleaned it.

Remember the ECU's think that the actuator is stuck, any movement you did probably didn't even register any movement at all.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Systemlord
It's a long shot but the fact that it didn't need the throttle adaptation value reprogrammed might mean you might still have an issue with your throttle actuator, if the sensor is faulty it may not have registered any movement at all when you cleaned it.

Remember the ECU's think that the actuator is stuck, any movement you did probably didn't even register any movement at all.
Going to check upper and lower voltage limits at connector to eliminate any other possible factors.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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From: Mission Viejo, CA
Originally Posted by thadscottmoore
Going to check upper and lower voltage limits at connector to eliminate any other possible factors.
That's a good starting point, but it's going to be a tug fest getting all the rubber tubing off as I remember doing it 2 and a half months ago to get my VANOS solenoid out. Most difficult thing I did since re-installing my clutch return spring both of which took almost a day!
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 07:48 PM
  #8  
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replaced the throttle body and did ECU reset and its back on the road again with no CEL and its back to running smooth again! Easy fixed...
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 07:58 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by thadscottmoore
replaced the throttle body and did ECU reset and its back on the road again with no CEL and its back to running smooth again! Easy fixed...
Glad to hear!

Did you ever by any chance move the actuator on your new throttle body during the installation?
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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oh no, I made sure not to touch the actuator from box to install.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:15 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by thadscottmoore
oh no, I made sure not to touch the actuator from box to install.
If you had moved it you most certainly would have had to pay small fee to get the adaptation value reset. You absolutely do not have to go to the dealer to do this, any independent specialty shop could have done this or anyone that does wallnut blasting on the intake valves on BMWs and Mini Coopers.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 08:18 PM
  #12  
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you think that the original throttle body is salvageable?
 
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Old May 29, 2021 | 09:59 PM
  #13  
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Hi all, I just bought a nice used R55 Clubman S, so I'm hoping it's similar to the R56 even with base model as almost the same codes probably means a similar issue.
P1637 one time over last week of ownership and P1638 every few minutes it seems. I took throttle body out today and cleaned and yes I moved that butterfly valve manually so many many times to clean. Reinstalled and car fired right up. After a 20 min drive I DID eventually get CEL code 2102 and P1638 again but reset it with scanner reset tool and then took for another spirited drive. Code 2102 and 1637 and 1638 came back with limp home mode directly after accelerating from stop at a traffic light. Then car was RPM searching from 700 to 1,500 rpm while I was stopped in limp home mode.
Anyhow a few posts talk about throttle actuator... Is that the gas pedal or something in the throttle body? Appreciate your help!
 

Last edited by Clockwork; May 30, 2021 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 07:19 AM
  #14  
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Replaced Factory TB with VDO/Continental brand...

...and so far it seems to have solved my issue with those codes and Limp Home. If those codes come back, I will report, but as for now it seems this solution of replacing the throttle body may BE the answer.
 
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