In December, I bought my new to me 2011 MCS. So far it has been awesome. Great gas mileage, handles like a slot car, borderline scary quick, plenty of room inside for me, yet small enough to park almost anywhere. Reading many post here mixed with my experiences brings up a few questions.

1. Oil consumption. I bought it with 52k on it & I've put about 3000+ miles on it. I've checked the oil level frequently and it doesn't seem to be using any oil. Not a complaint but seems odd. I've even searched here for the proper way to read it, and checked the Bentley manual. Pretty sure I'm doing it right, so what gives? Most performance engines I've been around use oil, so I'm a little concerned.

2. When's its started cold, especially as frigid as its been here in Ohio, I'm getting a rattle. Fairly certain its the timing chain as its on the passenger side. I let it idle for a bit before rolling, and drive it gently until I start getting a little heat from the vents. The rattle is not there at other times. I've checked Mini's website, but there isn't a recall for my car, so the tensioner maybe has been replaced but I doubt it. The engine sounds somewhat tractor like compared to our Hyundai most of the time. Is this a concern, or is it normal?

3. Lastly, brakes. They still do their job, but the computer is saying the rears will need services soon, so I'll probably do fronts too when the weather isn't so miserable. I'll be doing the service myself, I have usually just used what I would get at the foreign car parts place. What pads and rotors do you folks use? This is my daily driver so I don't think I'll need any super brakes - at least not yet

 

As far as number 1, oh boy. There are some long threads about reading the stock dip stick. Nothing worked for me, I finally broke down and bought the expensive cravenspeed stick. Worked fine for me. As far as oil consumption, seems it varies a lot according to the threads I've read. In my '12 MCS, doesn't use a drop.

On number 2, a '11 is outside of the 'campaign' and at 52k miles you are out of warranty. What you are describing does sound like the timing chain.

On number 3, if the brakes have been changed, you're due. Pop off the wheels and take a look.

 

Check your oil with a cold engine, make sure the car is on a level surface, because the dipstick is on the end of the engine any side to side tilt will mess up your reading. Your car may not be using much oil, some do some don't. I change my oil every 5000 miles and it uses less than a pint in that time.

Take your car to a MINI specialist, either an independant or a dealer and have the slack checked in the timing chain, maybe you can get away with a new timing chain tensioner.

Our cars have wear sensors in the brake pads, if your car is telling you that you need new rear brakes, you will need the wear sensors too, when you change the pads. When the circuit is broken in the sensors they are done.

Dave

 

#2 Doesn't sound like a timing chain problem to me. As far as I know Mini never announced a recall for the N18 engines' timing chain, that was for the older N14 engines in the '07-'10 model years.

There are a few threads about this noise but it's normal. I think it was the turbo waste gate rattling. No way to fix it, no need to worry about it. Mine does it too. Yeah, it's annoying and it makes the car sound like a diesel or a tractor :(

 

I've got a 13' mcs, I'm also here in Ohio, it's definitely tractor like on the cold mornings until it heats up, local dealer says it's normal...

 

#1...consider yourself lucky. I do 5k oil changes and my car burns half a quart still.

#2...the rattle is normal for these "not normal" cars. Also check to see if your timing tensioner was replaced under recall. All 2011 had them replaced and I believe other N18s too.

#3...check the brakes. Don't always go by the computer board. Do your own inspections since you bought your MINI used.

 

gravely,

Here is a link to the "Vanos" valve system. It is an abbreviation of a long German word which you can read about here. It's hard for me to grasp the explanation as written without seeing an engine apart and in pieces.

I believe you have this system. Note where it speaks of the noise problem associated with the variable valve geometery system BMW developed. It supposedly reduces the problems associated with Direct fuel injection (DIJ) carbon buildup in the intake valve plenums.
As an aside, I notice that GM has introduced DIJ into it's trucks, and Cadillac also has it. I read that Cadillac also uses a form of "Vanos"- successfully (so far).

 

These engines have direct injection, which uses a very high pressure fuel system. The injectors tick pretty loudly when the engine is running, especially noticeable idling. This is the same style injection system that has been used on Diesel engines for years. The sound is a light ticking, like tapping a screwdriver on sheet metal lightly.

The cold start rattle should be checked, as described by another post.

The brakes have a wear sensor on the left front and right rear. The wear sensor is clipped into the brake pad and rubs against the rotor. When the pad thickness gets thin, the resistance in the sensor reduces, which tells the car to let you know you need brakes.

I'm running EBC red pads. They still emit a decent amount of dust, but it is less than the stock pads. I drive this car daily, year round, and have no issues with the pads.

waymotorworks.com, ECStuning.com, are two sponsors on this forum that are helpful and have fair prices on replacement parts (OEM or aftermarket).

You should also clean the engine very well so that you can keep an eye out for oil leaks. There are several areas that are common leak sites that need to be watched. The turbo oil line (leaks on top of the turbo), timing chain tensioner (passenger side of the engine), oil drain line/oil filter housing (front of engine, above exhaust pipe), and the valve cover leaks on top of the engine.

You are also likely running on the original spark plugs, and the car will likely need a carbon-cleaning treatment.

Have fun,
Mike

 

I just took my car in for an oil change and was told it was 1.25 qts low. I questioned this as I check my oil weekly in my garage before I start it and go for the day. I had found 0 oil consumption.
I was told to get car to temp, then shut it off for 5 minutes and THEN check the oil.
That's the first I had ever heard anything like this.
I was told its in the MINI owners manual.

 

How many quarts low?

Dave

 

1 and 1/4 qts

 

This is how the rattling starts out in cold weather and goes away when your engine warms up, soon it might not go away even when the engine warms up. Get it checked out! Also where did you buy your Mini?

If you got it from a dealer then there's not much they can do to blame you having only owned it for 3K miles. If you are burning 1.25 quarts of oil every 3K miles you are doing much better than my Mini.

Good luck!

 

I'm in Rhode Island it had been super cold here I was getting a rattling in startup as well as when I started to drive and th rpm went up. So I popped the hood the bolts on my heat sheild were a little lose tighten them up boom no more rattle. Once the engine was warmed up I assumed the metal expanded and that's why the rattle went away

 

Simple answer to these questions.

1. redesigned pcv system in 2011+ helps a lot with oil consumption, my 2011 with 33k on it consumes barely any oil, maybe 1/4 of a quart every 6k miles.

2. the wastegate on the turbo is near fully shut on cold starts based on comuter programming (this allows quicker warmup time for the turbo which will aid in it's longevity over time, cold turbo bearings with high turbine speeds can cause wear, the warmth will expand the internals of the CHRA housing to tighter operating tolerances), the wastegate flapper which is metal, rattles against the turbine housing of the turbo, which is metal. this noise usually goes away within minutes of cold start and driving. it sounds like a tinny rattle.

3. i've found that the mini brake pads have more life left than the computer says, a lot more. visually check pad thickness on inner and outer pads as well as thickness of rotor.

 

i check mine cold too, comparing the cold check to the "book" hot check, i find less than 1/16 inch difference on the dipstick ... and the cold read is the higher, probably because of overnight oil drainback