Help.
At about 8k into driving a new 2012 MCS, the clutch would intermittently make a grinding noise on the uptake.
I’ve about 10.5k on the car now, and it needs a new clutch.

What?

Dealership quoted me a $3,000 fix. $2k labor, $1k parts.

There’s so much wrong here I don’t know where to begin.
So I’m here.

I’ve been driving stick shift for five years, and I consider myself a mindful driver.

UPDATE:

My sentiments exactly.
Some background:
This is my second MINI. My first was 2011 MCCS. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...63-carbon.html
After 13 service receipts (for things ranging from the turbo dying to replacing two throwout bearings) and almost as many loaner/rental cars in 8.5 months, MINI bought it back.
I know I'm on a MINI forum and all, but I am a writhing idiot for getting another one.

So, there's an UPDATE:
Got a voicemail from the service advisor from the dealership saying:
after they spent another day with the car, they don't believe I need a new clutch.
He went on for a good minute explaining what Hill-Start Assist is (without ever mentioning its name), and said, essentially, I just don't know how to drive stick, and I need to act more slowly when engaging on an incline.

Just for poops & giggles, other grievances:

Sound:
When at speed, the tweeters sometimes emit a crackling noise.
Bob Smith dismissed this, saying it wasn’t there.

When I test drove the car, I noticed a faint whining that increases and decreases with the rpms. The salesman convinced me I was hearing things. I wasn’t.
I’ve heard the same thing in other cars, and I believe it’s caused by faulty grounding of wiring in the sound system.
Bob Smith dismissed this, saying it wasn’t there.

Engine:
When revved up to between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm, a sort of rattling noise is produced.
Universal tried to fix this by replacing a grommet they found to be missing from the factory, though it made no noticeable difference.

Window:
The driver’s side window makes a screeching noise when rolling it up. Bob Smith tried to fix it, and it went away for a bit, though the window has operated more slowly ever since.
The noise has since returned.

Shifter:
The shifter has a LOT of “slack” in it. More than is in any of the half dozen or so other stick-shift 2007 or newer MINIs I’ve driven.

Miscellaneous:
Long Beach, where I got the car, said they would send me a glove box organizer after the lease was finalized.
Though they supplied me with a shipping number (and I do believe they shipped it), it never arrived at my house.
They have not responded to emails since.
I live in L.A. and average 28 mpg. I’d say that’s laid back for 75% stop-and-go driving.
I’m not gonna say I don’t floor it to get on the freeway; I drive a MINI S.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

 

Hit up my friend's shop. LTMW in El Monte. You can order a new oem clutch through him and have it installed from him at the same time.

 

Where did you buy your car from? Maybe someone else has dealt with this dealership on a similar issue. I would try talking to the service manager,GM and the owner. Wish you the best.

 

I mean to only hit him up if your dealership decides not to cover your new clutch under warranty.

If not, I'd say check Sewell on pricing, which with the current promo, a new clutch would only be 272.61. Price match that at my friend's shop and get it done there. That's what I would do.

 

You can also contact mini USA directly if the dealership isn't going to bat for you. Good luck!

 

For that price I can sell you a good OS Giken clutch that you can get installed down here in Chula Vista. You would spend half of what the dealership is asking.

 

Would the clutch not be covered under warranty with only 12K miles on it? Am I missing something?

Mark

 

This should be covered under warranty, fight them. You would have to really be a bad driver to ruin it that fast.

 

Way,

Call me when you get a second. I either need headwork or a replacement head.


Thanks,

Mark

 

Yeah, I'd fight it all the way up the food chain...

12,000 miles is ridiculous. Incidentally, I remember when the R56 first came to these shores and dealers were sending their MAs for training out west (Arizona? Nevada?). More than one car limped in with a bad clutch during those days. That suggests to me the clutch is a weak area in the Gen 2, just as it was in the Gen 1.

And yes, IF you are unsuccessful with the dealer AND with MINI USA, I would never let that dealer get another nickel from me. I'd go to an independent for sure, and let the dealer know why I was boycotting. If you belong to a local club, I'd let them know the details, too. My opinion, of course, but in 40+ years of driving stick shifts, I've never blown a clutch or transmission, and that includes cars bought used. My last car, a BMW, was sold with original--fully functioning--clutch at 190,000 miles. I would never accept 12,000.