I've seen lots of pic threads for wheels, suspension, color, but haven't seen one for sound systems, unless I missed it. So I thought I would start one, a place where people can post their upgrades and others can get ideas to help with their upgrades (my current situation). Thanks for sharing.

 

Mine is in my sig, but I will list it anyway.

Alpine Type S 6.5" components front with tweeters in factory 4" location
Alpine Type S 6"x9" coaxial in rear
Alpine SBR-S83V (Type R DVC 8" in prebuilt ported enclosure)
Alpine MRX-V60 5-channel amp in factory jack location 50x4(75x4 @ 2Ω) 300w mono channel

I was trying to get the most stereo I could with a budget of around $800. I chose Alpine because I have had good results with them in the past and I think it is a great quality for the price.

The amp has speaker level inputs that accept a high voltage signal so I didn't need a LOC. For the front I just cut the speaker wires at the x9331 (kickpanel connector) one set at a time and ran the wires to the amp, then back to the speakers. This kept me from running new wires into the doors. For the rear I did the same thing but at the speaker locations. The only thing that didn't just pop right in once I had all the parts was the tweeters. I had a local stereo shop make plates based on one of the factory 4" mids.

I sometimes feel like I need to upgrade to a 10" sub in a sealed box to get a range that suits me better, but the 8" ported Type R does great for now and was very easy to work with due to price and the fact that it is very compact.

If you are going for budget like I did then just remember google shopping and ebay! I am positive I saved a couple hundred bucks shopping smart online.

 

Soundstream Tarantula SST6.9 in rear and Pioneer TS-WX77A subwoofer in the boot.

 

Here are my amps and enclosure. The amps are 1) Hifonics HFI 1500d running a soon to be in place Kicker CVX10 dual 2 ohm coils, 2) Pioneer GM6400F powering a set of Kicker KS 6.02 components soon to be upgraded to the Kicker QS series. Also on deck for install is a Pioneer DEH 8300-UB head unit. Currently I am using an Audio Control LC6i for line converter.

 

Here's the sub

 

This is a bad picture, but it's the only one I have. Here's my sub:

 

I was actually thinking of going from the single 10 to 2 8's. If I do I'm willing to make a great deal on my sub but I dont think your amp can runit. Thats what happened to me. I satarted with a single 10 polk db and the Kickers off the pioneer the polk blew got a killer deal on the cvx, guy thought it was a cvr, and then realized I neede new amp. I think You should be fine with the 8 maybe add second one.

 

If I switch to a 10" I will probably stick with Alpine and run a Type S 10 or maybe even a Type R depending on power requirements. There are certain notes that a 8" sub just can't hit very well that a 10" can reproduce much better and still give a nice tight punch on the higher notes. The ported box helps this particular 8" out quite a bit and I am satisfied for now but I may try to build an enclosure in the future as a project and try out the 10.

 

Thats cool Thats what Im in the middle of doing I went from a vented enclosure that actually was too small bc guy thought he had a diff sub to a sealed enclosure I built that internal volume after speaker displacement and bracing is 1.45cu.ft. its right in the middle of Kickers specs plus I doubled the front bffle to really stiffen it up. The new Alpine PDX f4 I believe is the model is a super nice amplifier. Im not sure your background or such if you need any help hit me up I've been doing mobile electronics on and off for 8 years and am a Master Electrician. You may try a larger box for the 8 closer to the SQ specs. Ive heard some 8's that didnt sound like 8's at all I had 4 8 jlw6's in a prelude that was rediculous.

 

That's not quite true brother... It's all in the acoustic profile of the enclosure. The enclosure and the car have to work together cohesively to obtain the output you want across a given frequency range... try a box that has a lower octave range say 50hz down, it will be more efficient but your mid bass has to be able to go down to about 52hz or you will have a nasty hole in the handoff. My buddy's Digital Designs 1508's got down to the upper 20's (@28hz IIRC) in an Aperiodic-Bi Chamber (ABC box) the whole the smaller the speaker the higher the response myth is just that a myth... Remember these words it's all in the box.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...stage-3-a.html

 

Nice

 

Well I know its a couple days late but here is some further progress. Pardon the unfinished project but still trying to decide on how to finish the trim panels or to stay without the rear seat.

 

So I am getting ready to change out the head unit. Here is my Pioneer DEH-p8300ub in the metra turbo kit 99-9309. Hopefully I have the right harness it seems the metra catalog shows one up to 06 and one for 08 but they say the 06 ine works in the 07 convertable. If it doesnt then to the other way more pricey harness.

 

Here's an equipment list....had to downgrade to this stuff since money has been tight since I got laid off.

Alpine CDA-9887 in secret compartment
Stock radio fed into Alpine Aux Input
JL Audio XD600/6 amp
Beston RT001A ribbon tweets molded into the a-pillars
Exodus Audio Anarchy 7'' midbass in stock door location.
Alpine Type-S 15'' subwoofer in boot.
Custom Grilles for midbass

 

^ Thats awesome... are those ribbon tweets comparable to BG Neo's? I bet they sound sweet.

 

I haven't hear the BG neos in years, but they do that that ''ribbon'' sound...nice and fast and airy. They sound decent right now, still have some tuning to do though.

 

I've been following your thread on DIYMA... looking really good, how hard was it to fit the Anarchy in the doors? I've been considering them for midbass duty as they are assloads cheaper than the Legatia l6se I wanted to go with at first, Hows the midbass response from them? How deep do they dig?

 

The Anarchies are monsters for low end even compared to the L6SE which I had before.

To mount them in the doors, you need to make a 3/4'' spacer, cut the door panel to make a hole roughly as big as the OD of the stock grille and then make a new grille or use one from another speaker. When you put the door panel back on it will sit about 3/8'' from the door in the front lower corner, but you can't see it and it doesn't cause any weird vibrations or any other issues. It takes some work, but it's worth it.

 

All about the install. I had them in my Tacoma until I sold it last month. Well treated (but not fully sealed) doors, lots of power (XD 600/6, 2 channels bridged to each mid for ~150w available) and they got nice and low. But I had subs as well, so I only played them down to 80hz 12db/oct and let the subs do their job.

Great, beefy drivers. I dont know if I want to go all out like GLN305 did to fit these in the doors of this car. I will probably stick with another well regarded mid that I have in the closet.