Drivetrain DIY CAI Cooper S
DIY CAI Cooper S
Hi guys. I just installed a K&N air filter (100mm diameter) with a CAI I made myself with some things I found at home. A 16cm PVC pipe, some plastic and a 70mm 75 degree aluminium pipe. (images 1-2). - needs some black paint and a heavy engine cleaning. It was really dusty the last few days. Like a fog of dust. Very strange for my area.

I also made some intake temperature measuring using torque for phones.
With factory filter and box, with air temp 28 Celsius the intake temperature was 31 while moving and up to 33-34 on traffic lights.
With K&N filter attached without any box (picture under), at 31 air temp, was 41 Celsius while moving and up to 46 on traffic lights (scoop half open). I must say that the driving was not good. Slow acceleration, very slow response on low rpm, the turbo valve was blowing loudly whenever you left the gas, and a lout whistle in high rpm. The filter and pipe were very hot. Couldnt touch them.

With my Box, at 30 Celsius air temp, i measured 34 degrees while driving and up to 36 on traffic lights. I didnt made a long run but the driving was like the factory filter, maybe little better, better response and you could hear the turbo valve when changing gears at 3000 + rpm not very loud. The pipe was hot. Might get better temps with some insulation
I read somewhere that the ECU needs some time to get the best from the filter. Is this true?

I also made some intake temperature measuring using torque for phones.
With factory filter and box, with air temp 28 Celsius the intake temperature was 31 while moving and up to 33-34 on traffic lights.
With K&N filter attached without any box (picture under), at 31 air temp, was 41 Celsius while moving and up to 46 on traffic lights (scoop half open). I must say that the driving was not good. Slow acceleration, very slow response on low rpm, the turbo valve was blowing loudly whenever you left the gas, and a lout whistle in high rpm. The filter and pipe were very hot. Couldnt touch them.

With my Box, at 30 Celsius air temp, i measured 34 degrees while driving and up to 36 on traffic lights. I didnt made a long run but the driving was like the factory filter, maybe little better, better response and you could hear the turbo valve when changing gears at 3000 + rpm not very loud. The pipe was hot. Might get better temps with some insulation
I read somewhere that the ECU needs some time to get the best from the filter. Is this true?
Last edited by charitoug; Sep 30, 2012 at 09:34 AM.
I have to comment on this I simply can't stop myself, so you took the factory stock air box lid off, and created your own, for no gain whatsoever, you obviously have too much spare time on your hands, I thought I had seen it all...........
If its effective, I dont know and i dont expect to see something exciting. But at least I didnt spent $300 to some "proffesional" CAI that promise 10+HP.
Last edited by charitoug; Jun 2, 2012 at 10:29 AM.
It's no more effective than the stock factory air box and flat panel filter, consult your own temperature figures! $ for $ you can't beat the factory air box with either a flat panel or cylindrical performance filter, that said choose your filter carefully, surface area vs particle entrapment vs void volume pressure drop, wet or dry.
The intake temperatures are the same with the factory. + 3 or 4 degrees from the environment. The only difference is that the aftermarket has 1.5 times more surface area, it is directly attached to the intake tube so the bottleneck at the intake lid is eliminated, and there is more available air inside the box because now the box has 2 times the volume. It also seals perfectly on the base so it can keep pressure inside. Theoretically at least is not a bad idea and sits beside the high cost aftermarket solutions. At least is by far better idea than leaving an open filter inside the engine as a lot of people do.
As I said, i am not expecting something huge. I will be happy with little better engine respond on low rpm, or better mpg. It only costs me $60 If I could spend more, I would definitively buy the JCW intake. I am not arguing that the high end stock isn't the best
As I said, i am not expecting something huge. I will be happy with little better engine respond on low rpm, or better mpg. It only costs me $60 If I could spend more, I would definitively buy the JCW intake. I am not arguing that the high end stock isn't the best
Last edited by charitoug; Jun 2, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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You've missed the whole point, you've spent time and created nothing better than the original air box already offered, all you had to do was purchase a good performance filter element, taking into consideration what I've already mentioned, simple.
Yes. I could take a high flow replacement. It would cost twice of what i spend, because i am not leaving in US and I had to ordered it and the shipping costs $40! Also it was a free time well spend. I relaxed doing something to my car. Some people like making things by themselves and not buying them ready! If it even comes close to the outcome of the $300 aftermarket solutions, for me is a success!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram-air_intake
A ram-air intake is any intake design which uses the dynamic air pressure created by vehicle motion to increase the static air pressure inside of the intake manifold on an engine, thus allowing a greater massflow through the engine and hence increasing engine power.
The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting.
The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting.
I think you might be confused about what a "ram air intake" is. Neither the Alta nor the Typhoon are a ram-air. Closest thing to a ram-air is the M7 AGS-R, which at least has a duct from the scoop.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram-air_intake
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram-air_intake
Mike
I manage to paint it, and now it looks a little better. Also i made some more testing.

a) Sound: You can hear a small whistle when you press hard the gas as it sucks air, and the valve when you leave the gas (not very loud)
b) Power: It feels little more responding. Might have little more torque at low rpm, and little more power at high RPM. Its not something big and its not worth doing it for the power gains.
c) MPG: In town i didnt see any difference. I made a trip, 60miles Highway at 42 celcius (107-108 F) at 74mph, + 40 miles mountain climb with close turns all the time and 7% slope (25 celcius), + 40 miles normal road and the average consumption was 7.2 L/100km (33mpg US) which I believe is little better. Especially with this high temps
Also I would like to say to stay away from open filters in the engine area. In high temps (>30 celcius) you will see power drop for sure.
Last edited by charitoug; Sep 30, 2012 at 09:33 AM.
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