So faced with the prospect of spending ~ $3,000 on replacing my '07 S's clutch (84,000 mi. presently) I'm wondering just how long these might last?

I drove an '02 S for 133,000 miles & that clutch still worked fine when I sold it. Been told new design not as robust....

 

I have heard that you can replace the clutch with a much better non-oem clutch. If I ever need one, I will look into that option, but at 30,000 mine is fine.

 

I've heard that also, and found a few aftermarket items when searching for info. Some are competition only, others not; priciest item is flywheel @ $900+ & everybody I've talked to says they replace it all the time which seems like a waste unless the original is warped or otherwise damaged.

@ 84,000 + miles I'm trying to get into an agreeable mindset for the expected ~ $3,000 price tag I've been quoted :-(

 

Mine needed replacing at circa 48k miles but that was because the flywheel was 'loose' and created hot spots - got a new flywheel and clutch done under warranty though...

 

$3k is way over priced. I also have an 07 and the clutch was fine but my flywheel was jacked up when I did mine at 60k miles. I spent somewhere around $2300 part and install with WMW. Stock clutch you will probably get the same amount of life out of it. Aftermarket depending on what you get the same or even more life out of it.

 

You could probably also go with the JCW clutch if you want to stick with OE parts.

 

They wanted to charge me 3100.00 for a new clutch kit, 3weeks/under 900 miles usage from the dealorship(used 36Kmiles), with the audacity to say that "I" burnt the clutch out. Theyre reasoning was "that since I have a modded Z I probably did it"(OEM Clutch and 80Kmile). Will never do buisness with Mini/BMW of SA if I dont have too.

 

84k is a very reasonable clutch life given that you dont know how the original owner drove it or used the clutch. the clutch on my wife's bmw went out at 100k which is kind of what we expected. An independent shop could do it cheaper.

 

is it me, or does OEM 2010 MCS clutch feel "really soft". Its definatley not what I was expecting. Gives me the impression that they are weak, but I could be wrong though.

 

160k on my 07, in fact the brake pads just need replacing now!

 

Wow you drive even more than me! Our 08 is still working fine at 72k. I got a quote of $2200 at a local MINI specialist.

I just spent a bunch of time in it over vacation and I think it will last a while yet.

 

I just had my R56 clutch done at 85k. It wasnt slipping, it was catching at the very very top of the pedal travel and I put 300-600 miles per week on her , so I dodnt want to wait for it to fail. I bought this R56 (our 3rd mini) with 70k knowing the clutch was worn and got another 15k. I receieved a 15% off coupon from our local Mini dealer so that made it A bit easier to swallow. Ive been driving manuals for 35 yrs and have had cars with 175k on the original clutch. Anyways... the dealer replaced the clutch plate, pressure plate, bearing, pivot fork. rear main & rear oil gallery seals. surfaced flywheel, new tranny fluid of course and the rear sway bar bushings, both were torn. Total for all with the coupon was under $1800. Nothing to sneeze at, but very fair compared to what Ive seen others quoted by their dealers.

I have to add that I see many other's complaining about their Mini's reliability. we own a 2006 R53 with 23k, a 2008 R56 with 87k, and a 2012 R56S with 7k and with regular oil changes 5K and under, Plugs at 2 yrs, no matter the mileage and filters of course. These have been some of the most reliable cars Ive ever owned. I get 38-40Mpg on the hwy with my R56 at 70-80 MPH all the time.

 

Very fair dealer price considering the work IMO.

 

Yes, I think that's a Very Fair price for the work described.

My R56 has been 'shopped since early last week for a recurrent Check Engine Light issue that I understand was found to be a faulty air metering valve after three (3) cat-forward 02 sensors had been fitted in two months. Ext. warranty will cover that AND the fix to a leaky rear crankshaft oil seal too... which gives me an opportunity to get the clutch bits replaced without having to fund the R/R fees. Hopefully flywheel will be in good enough shape (surfacing affordable vs. another $900 for new) to keep out-of-pocket expense to < $500.

 

The clutch on the Countryman S the dealer gave me as a loaner (see above) has a really "friendly" clutch feel too: Very Long Travel, engages just barely off the floor but not fully ON until my foot's off the pedal. Not much like that in my early '03 S's pedal. Anxious to see what effect a new clutch will have on that, if any.

 

One of the bigger changes with all the 2011 MY upgrades was a new self-adjusting clutch. Certainly it provided an improvement in driving feel and hopefully it will also provide improvement in clutch life.

 

That likely is the reason for the vastly different feel in the clutch pedal on that Countryman S loaner I'm driving!

I'm not so sure an increased clutch longevity will result for those users with a habit of leaving their foot on the clutch pedal while driving. My impressions with the Countryman have been that if I'm not 100% OFF THE PEDAL the clutch is not 100% engaged.

(I blame a large portion of the bad manners of most contemporary drivers on automatic transmissions also; anything that makes driving 'easier' reduces driver involvement.)

 

I know this is an older thread, but maybe just to add some insight (and ask for input):

Picking up my 07 R56S today from Crevier MINI (Orange County, CA). Car has 86k miles on it, original clutch. They tore down the trans and said the clutch disk needed replacing (obviously) as well as the flywheel as it had cracks(???). The flywheel alone - they say - is $1,100. My out the door price for all this?

$3,500!

I'm pick up my car this evening. I hope to speak to someone (service adviser?) about tacking on some sort of loyalty or "ouch this ******* hurts" discount. Any thoughts? PLEASE share.

 

Not much to add but "good luck" with that.

I finally succumbed to 'cost/benefit' issues with trying to keep my '07 beyond 100,000 miles. After having an oil seal replaced for the 2nd time in 10 months (I had clutch done at the same time so my OOP expense was just for parts, about $350) and a diagnosis of oil in the engine wiring harness from a failed breather integrated into the updated valve cover assembly (so the extended warranty wouldn't cover replacement as they consider that part of the emissions control plumbing) I took the dealer up on their generous trade-in against an off-the-lot '13 Clubman late last December.

Woulda liked to have an S Clubman but what with the extra cost for new & potential for problems inherent with the turbo system (I also considered a couple of CARMAX used Clubman S vehicles that looked to be worthwhile) I decided the extra adrenaline just was't worth the COO factor.

So far I'm happy save for a problem (!) with the Check Engine Light intermittently popping on & off on this one too. Seems it's a 'known issue' with BMW / MINI & a Senior Tech pulled data off this past week looking to work out a permanent fix.

Brand of 93-octane used doesn't affect frequency; seems to come on somewhere around 15 - 20° F, goes off when temps reach 30 - 35°F mostly, but not always. Doesn't affect drive-ability either, no change in performance whether it's on or off.

I have noticed an odd throttle lag moving away from idle that I need to bring to the attention of the dealer staff. Whether SPORT button's engaged or not, sometimes pressing the throttle doesn't increase engine RPM much until I really put my foot into it. If this were a cable-actuated system I'd think the cable's not secured somewhere.

Other times it's fine - move the throttle, the RPM climbs accordingly with almost no delay. Kinda odd, never seen this before on the 4 MINI'S I've owned, or the wife's '06 S Cabrio.

 

Here's my thought: don't go to the dealer once you're out of warranty. Find a local shop that knows MINIs. There are some repairs that require specialty tools from BMW, but I'm not sure replacing the clutch does. So, maybe any old shop could do it.

 

Good call, MS. I do frequent an independent shop for repairs. Although I took a gamble: I have the extended maintenance plan from MINI, which covers the clutch *sometimes*
So in my gamble, I lost. According to the dealer I was beyond the specs of which MINI will cover the cost.

I have an awesome Service Advisor at Crevier MINI who brought the charge down a few hundred from the $3500.

MS if you're located in soCal or happen to know of a good indie shop here, I'd love for you to share .

 

It may be a bit of a drive for you but I've heard/read great things about Motoring Magic in Thousand Oaks. I haven't had to use them since I'm still under warranty but they're the first place I'm going once it runs out.

 

Nate - thanks for the suggestion; I'll check them out. I'm in OC, but what MINI driver doesn't love a mini road trip?

Also, you car looks incredible. Well done