Every car I have owned has had a major audio overhaul so after having my cooper for 2 months the plan is set.
I do trust in alpine.

cda-117
kce-400bt
pdx-5
spx-13pro
spr-69c
Sealed jl10w3 (couldn't let that go with that last car)

I got all the other harness, plates, antenna and steering wheel control stuff too.
Think I might go on a little dynamat binge before everything gets here.

I will try to photograph the install but it is a pain when woking alone.

 

Please take pictures, I would like to see where you route the wiring..

 

cool.

post pics, especially how you deal with the door speaker wiring.

 

Every car that has ever been built has been assembled in a way to deconstruct. By looking of the fine lines this past week to make a proper plan, this will be my greatest challenge.

I've finished audio systems on 20+ models and they have all presented their own chalenges. I have my plan down strait at this point and know some workarounds will have to come but I have confidence. Just like any mechanic, never quit.

 

I also plan to create a system to have a airflow for the boot tool area where I intend to put the amp. One of these. The pdx-5s reportedly run quite hot and I want to keep space at a max.

 

Nice. Been eyeing the SPX-13PRO too (and SPX-17PRO). Tell us how it sounds.

 

If you have NOT purchased the Alpine amp already, you should try the JL 900/5. Much richer sound to my ears........More power too but also more costly. I got one for 675 shipped.

 

COMPLETE!

I'd say about 10 hours in 2 days with allot of time spent thinking about the best way to do whatever was at hand. Pulled every seat and pannel for easy access, things went pretty smooth. I didn't bother with the dynamat, the system is loud enough as-is.

Just went out for my first ride and I am quiet impressed so far. Going to do some tuning tomorrow and I'm sure it will fantastic.

@AaronMAbe: I had already bought the pdx-5 and paid less than half that.
(And the ref instead of the pro's)

I didn't take a ton of pics because of dirty hands (I only have a d300s) but i did take some on things I had to make workarounds for like the stock tweeter housing and (as requested) the door wiring. For everything else, power lines were on the driver side and all audio lines were run on the passenger side

This was kind of a pain until i realized the only things keeping it out so far were the plastic prongs in the back (sorry for no pic), I just clipped about a 1/4" to 1/2" on each and then there was no problem to get a flush mount for the cover.


This is where I spent most of my time thinking. I knew there must be enough room in the tubes by squeezing them for more wire. By day two I decided the doors were coming off (very easy to do) for full access. In the pics below I show how I got them in place:


After that side of the harness is clipped off there is enough room for the speaker wire.


And the crossover wiring

 

Everything was working fine until today. Any time I turn the volume up the sound cuts off. H/U on, amp on without any warning lights or heat.

/Not happy about this.

 

I used to work in mobile electronics. Sounds like a speaker ground. You might try by checking each speaker wire at the amp plug/connection (with amp leads disconnected) to ground. Use an ohm meter, analog preferred, or just simply a nine volt battery.

One one end of the battery to ground, the other to each speaker lead, both plus and minus, one at a time. If any speaker pops than this would be your suspect.

If you get no results here, try disconnecting one speaker at a time and running with the amp as normal. Example, Disconnect R/R, play system, L/R, play system etc. Dissconnect one channel at a time and reconnect that channel when done checking. Go on to next channel etc. until all five have been checked. If you have DV sub, check both sides.

I also noticed from your pics, the door X-overs are mounted upside down, allowing dirt, dust and moisture into them. This could also be an issue.

Hope that helps!

AA