New to my camera/lens, need suggestions for track day
New to my camera/lens, need suggestions for track day
I'm going to take my new Rebel XTi and 70-200 F4 IS L lens to an all MINI track day next month and was looking for insight. I haven't had the chance to play with the camera much other than the preset modes (which are great) however I wanted to get some shots of cars in motion (difficult I know but well worth the effort) where the car is in focus but background is blurred.
Any recommendations for how to set the camera up? I'm new to it and will need to break out the manual I know. With it being Seattle it will likely be high overcast or sunny/cloudy day.
Any input appreciated.
Todd
Any recommendations for how to set the camera up? I'm new to it and will need to break out the manual I know. With it being Seattle it will likely be high overcast or sunny/cloudy day.
Any input appreciated.
Todd
Last edited by Sanderskog; Aug 15, 2007 at 08:00 PM. Reason: more info.
Last edited by blacknblue; Aug 15, 2007 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Add More Info
Yup, panning is a must. Panning is following the car with the camera so the car remains in the center of the frame. In other words, move the camera, don't hold it still... watch the car through the camera as you take the pictures. Be smooth.
Your best bet is to not use the built-in modes on the camera. Especially not the "sport" mode. Sport mode will try to freeze the action, so all the pictures will look like the car is parked.
Put the camera in shutter priority mode, and set the shutter speed to something like 1/60 second if the cars are going ~60mph... 1/30 second if the cars are going 30mph... 1/100 second if the cars are going 100mph... etc. The longer the exposure (the slower the shutter speed - 1/30 is slow) the harder it will be to keep the car from becoming blurry along with the background.
After you take some, look at them (even on the camera). Zoom in close when looking at the pictures you took and see if the car is blurry / jumpy. If you cannot get a clean shot at 1/60 second, jump the shutter speed up a notch or two. You'll get less motion blur, but it will be easier to get a clean shot of the car.
If you're going to try panning, take lots and lots of pictures, as you will have to delete a huge percentage of them because they will be blurry all around.
Your best bet is to not use the built-in modes on the camera. Especially not the "sport" mode. Sport mode will try to freeze the action, so all the pictures will look like the car is parked.
Put the camera in shutter priority mode, and set the shutter speed to something like 1/60 second if the cars are going ~60mph... 1/30 second if the cars are going 30mph... 1/100 second if the cars are going 100mph... etc. The longer the exposure (the slower the shutter speed - 1/30 is slow) the harder it will be to keep the car from becoming blurry along with the background.
After you take some, look at them (even on the camera). Zoom in close when looking at the pictures you took and see if the car is blurry / jumpy. If you cannot get a clean shot at 1/60 second, jump the shutter speed up a notch or two. You'll get less motion blur, but it will be easier to get a clean shot of the car.
If you're going to try panning, take lots and lots of pictures, as you will have to delete a huge percentage of them because they will be blurry all around.
+1, what they said.
I'd add going into manual mode too. Before the cars are out on the track, take a photo while in manual mode where you'll be shooting the cars in motion, then review the result and the histogram, adjust exposure setting if needed. What I found was a black car and a silver car would both throw off the light meter and cause over/under exposed shots while in shutter priority mode. If you're in manual mode, remember to periodically check your histogram to ensure you're at the right exposure settings, especially if there is cloud cover.
Add a monopod to your equipment list as they are cheap. You'll see the pros using them for good reason and they make a big difference.
Read carefully what Snid said as it's accurate and important! FWIW, I used 1/125 of a second for cars going 60+ mph by me and I got a better hit rate of photos. They didn't have a ton of motion blur, but the wheels were properly blurred. You can also try starting at 1/160 of a second and work your way down to slower shutter speeds from there after reviewing your photos. 1/30 to 1/60 of a second on a fast moving car is really tough to get a good photo, but if you can get it, it looks amazing.
Look at Jimz68 and Mark S.'s photos in this thread from Monterey last year to see how the experts do this. Is anyone here going to the Monterey Historic races this weekend?
I'd add going into manual mode too. Before the cars are out on the track, take a photo while in manual mode where you'll be shooting the cars in motion, then review the result and the histogram, adjust exposure setting if needed. What I found was a black car and a silver car would both throw off the light meter and cause over/under exposed shots while in shutter priority mode. If you're in manual mode, remember to periodically check your histogram to ensure you're at the right exposure settings, especially if there is cloud cover.
Add a monopod to your equipment list as they are cheap. You'll see the pros using them for good reason and they make a big difference.
Read carefully what Snid said as it's accurate and important! FWIW, I used 1/125 of a second for cars going 60+ mph by me and I got a better hit rate of photos. They didn't have a ton of motion blur, but the wheels were properly blurred. You can also try starting at 1/160 of a second and work your way down to slower shutter speeds from there after reviewing your photos. 1/30 to 1/60 of a second on a fast moving car is really tough to get a good photo, but if you can get it, it looks amazing.
Look at Jimz68 and Mark S.'s photos in this thread from Monterey last year to see how the experts do this. Is anyone here going to the Monterey Historic races this weekend?
You may have seen my first attempts at panning from the Sunrise drive a couple weeks ago (Sunrise Hillclimb). I was using WAY to slow of a shutter for a first time. f/25 1/30 sec just didn't turn out very well, IMO.
Out at Pacific Raceways, a great location is going to be turn 9, I think. It's right at the end of the huge sweeping left hand turn, and standing just to the left of the fence as the cars are entering 9 should be decent. Your 70mm may be TOO close for that location, though.
I'm sure we'll talk out there, too, since I'll be shooting many frames when I'm not on track.
Out at Pacific Raceways, a great location is going to be turn 9, I think. It's right at the end of the huge sweeping left hand turn, and standing just to the left of the fence as the cars are entering 9 should be decent. Your 70mm may be TOO close for that location, though.
I'm sure we'll talk out there, too, since I'll be shooting many frames when I'm not on track.
You may have seen my first attempts at panning from the Sunrise drive a couple weeks ago (Sunrise Hillclimb). I was using WAY to slow of a shutter for a first time. f/25 1/30 sec just didn't turn out very well, IMO.
Out at Pacific Raceways, a great location is going to be turn 9, I think. It's right at the end of the huge sweeping left hand turn, and standing just to the left of the fence as the cars are entering 9 should be decent. Your 70mm may be TOO close for that location, though.
I'm sure we'll talk out there, too, since I'll be shooting many frames when I'm not on track.
Out at Pacific Raceways, a great location is going to be turn 9, I think. It's right at the end of the huge sweeping left hand turn, and standing just to the left of the fence as the cars are entering 9 should be decent. Your 70mm may be TOO close for that location, though.
I'm sure we'll talk out there, too, since I'll be shooting many frames when I'm not on track.

We'll see what happens.
Great info. all! Keep it coming.
Todd
But also realize there are times when you want motion, it all depends upon the story your trying to tell.
With that lens, don't forget to set it to the correct IS setting. Check the little manual that comes with it, its not the normal IS mode while hand holding a normal shot.
Also, I would never center a car in any shot. ... boring. Remember the rule of thirds.
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Also, I would never center a car in any shot. ... boring. Remember the rule of thirds.

I'll take the opportunity to display some track pans I've taken...





I think all these were with an IS 2.8 70-200L lens. Canon 30D.
--Dan
Mach V
FastMINI.net
The panning give that great sensation of speed while letting the car blur also gives the great sensation of speed.
I had planned to sit there, at 3/4, and 5/6 if I can get in the infield. The corner on 9 would be really tight with the 70mm. I'd be better off hitting the approach to 8 at 200mm but I think it'd be a bit far away.
We'll see what happens.
Great info. all! Keep it coming.
Todd
We'll see what happens.
Great info. all! Keep it coming.
Todd
Yes, the infield is accessible. Just remember to look left when crossing over the track.
If you feel like treking a bit, you can get all the way down to 2, if that's where you want to be. You can probably get some good ones down there, at the exit to 2, from the infield, with the trees blurring in the background.
http://www.motoringunderground.com/f...ead.php?t=3521
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...splay.php?f=90
http://community.automotivephoto.net...isplay.php?f=7
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...splay.php?f=90
http://community.automotivephoto.net...isplay.php?f=7
Last edited by Motor On; Aug 17, 2007 at 10:00 AM.
Following up on this thread. My pictures can be found here http://picasaweb.google.com/Sanderskog/ALLMINITrackDay
Lots of lessons learned.
Todd
Lots of lessons learned.
Todd
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