A Big Thanks
Wow, dude that's brutal. I/we left the office at 9:05pm last night & I thought that was bad. Being at my desk at 5:xx am? Never gonna happen. You're a stud.
Dr.Steve, did you figure out which Rockford Fosgate amp we need? I buy my stuff from www.woofersetc.com. Once you figure out which amp we need, I'll score the Dynamat Extreme & amp at the same time. Oh, you know what else we should get is a different fuse block. The one I have has been having that intermittent high-pitch screech issue again. I can bring my bazooka subs by if you want to figure out fitment.
Here's the specs on em':
8" woofer
frequency response 39-1,500 Hz
handles 300 watts RMS
600 watts peak power
sensitivity 102 dB
4-ohm impedance
8-1/2"W x 27-1/2"L x 10-1/4"H
Instead of the black bottles with 'Rocket Fuel' done in Pure Silver vinyl, we should've done this:

Here's the specs on em':
8" woofer
frequency response 39-1,500 Hz
handles 300 watts RMS
600 watts peak power
sensitivity 102 dB
4-ohm impedance
8-1/2"W x 27-1/2"L x 10-1/4"H
Instead of the black bottles with 'Rocket Fuel' done in Pure Silver vinyl, we should've done this:

The one's you have are bad enough, but these are not happening.
Which amp? what kind of volume levels are you looking at, especially bass? You don't normally rattle the windows when you arrive.
Steve
I need to talk to my guidance counselors.
Steve

I'd actually like to learn the why, how part(s) of getting the right amplifier(s) so let me know what we're looking for & why we're looking at that particular amplifier. I want good, clean, solid sound, ie. well-rounded bass, clear separation between channels, but not nessarily high-fidelity. If we can do it cost-effectively that be even cooler since the stereo has become my least favorite part of the on-going project.
Last edited by Fracky; Sep 20, 2008 at 11:08 AM.
I thought they were kinda funny ala "Scuba Steve" :

I'd actually like to learn the why, how part(s) of getting the right amplifier(s) so let me know what we're looking for & why we're looking at that particular amplifier. I want good, clean, solid sound, ie. well-rounded bass, clear separation between channels, but not nessarily high-fidelity. If we can do it cost-effectively that be even cooler since the stereo has become my least favorite part of the on-going project.

I'd actually like to learn the why, how part(s) of getting the right amplifier(s) so let me know what we're looking for & why we're looking at that particular amplifier. I want good, clean, solid sound, ie. well-rounded bass, clear separation between channels, but not nessarily high-fidelity. If we can do it cost-effectively that be even cooler since the stereo has become my least favorite part of the on-going project.
We can upgrade in steps so you don't take a big hit. You display your MINI as a show car so we want it to look and sound sharp. BTW, did I say how much I hate your head unit?
Your belts are going in today and the camber plates should also be here today.
Steve
Steve
It's your least favorite because what you have sucks.
We can upgrade in steps so you don't take a big hit. You display your MINI as a show car so we want it to look and sound sharp. BTW, did I say how much I hate your head unit?
Your belts are going in today and the camber plates should also be here today.
The airbag light and brake warning lights came on so now I have to investigate those too. Somehow, I don't think all that stereo wiring has anything to do with that, but that's the only thing I removed.
We can upgrade in steps so you don't take a big hit. You display your MINI as a show car so we want it to look and sound sharp. BTW, did I say how much I hate your head unit?
Your belts are going in today and the camber plates should also be here today.
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
F: -2.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
EDIT: One more thing. That set up would be great for a rear wheel drive car. But would suck for a front wheel drive car.
Last edited by ChrisW; Sep 22, 2008 at 10:09 AM.
The light thing is bizarre. I don't think there's even anything related to those items in the area(s) you've been working on. Maybe one of the resistors came out of the airbag plug? Oh, I found the remaining box of Dynamat Extreme so I'll bring that by for you. I'm super-excited that you were able to get ahold of the H-Sport v.2's so quickly. For some reason I was thinking we'd get wait-listed & then have to twiddle our thumbs until they came in.
Have you/we decided on the camber & toe settings? I've been reading up on that subject & it appears there's two routes to go.
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
Steve
The light thing is bizarre. I don't think there's even anything related to those items in the area(s) you've been working on. Maybe one of the resistors came out of the airbag plug? Oh, I found the remaining box of Dynamat Extreme so I'll bring that by for you. I'm super-excited that you were able to get ahold of the H-Sport v.2's so quickly. For some reason I was thinking we'd get wait-listed & then have to twiddle our thumbs until they came in.
Have you/we decided on the camber & toe settings? I've been reading up on that subject & it appears there's two routes to go.
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
Here's one of em':
F: -1.0 camber / 0 toe
R: -1.7 camber / 1/16 toe-in
Source (m|u): Griff's suspension setup on m|u
I forgot that disconnected seatbelts cause the airbag light to go on also. Scanner says both the rear wheel sensors are malfunctioning. The wires for them are probably in the harnesses up top in back. There are a lot of chopped up wires there from the original stereo installation so that's a good place to start.

Steve
I forgot that disconnected seatbelts cause the airbag light to go on also. Scanner says both the rear wheel sensors are malfunctioning. The wires for them are probably in the harnesses up top in back. There are a lot of chopped up wires there from the original stereo installation so that's a good place to start.
Steve

Steve
I'm also going to have to insulate all the cut wires because some seem to be hot some of the time. The ones on the plug are just ugly, not a problem.
Christ! It looks like someone went mad with a pair of wire cutters....
Bad ground was the problem. I started suspecting the ground after the hatch wouldn't open and the middle brake light would flash when I tried to open the hatch.
I'm also going to have to insulate all the cut wires because some seem to be hot some of the time. The ones on the plug are just ugly, not a problem.

I'm also going to have to insulate all the cut wires because some seem to be hot some of the time. The ones on the plug are just ugly, not a problem.

Bad ground was the problem. I started suspecting the ground after the hatch wouldn't open and the middle brake light would flash when I tried to open the hatch.
I'm also going to have to insulate all the cut wires because some seem to be hot some of the time. The ones on the plug are just ugly, not a problem.
I'm also going to have to insulate all the cut wires because some seem to be hot some of the time. The ones on the plug are just ugly, not a problem.
I forget how bad they destroyed the harness cuz' those panels hide things away. Thanks for getting everything squared-away Dr.Steve!! I'll be by in the morning with Dynamat.
Dr.Steve:
Thanks for taking such great care of the Frackmobile.
Let me know if you want me to order a pair of "Scuba Steve subs" for the Techride. Trust me, it'll look cool in your car.
Thanks for taking such great care of the Frackmobile.
I don't think Steve should trust anything you say when it comes to MINIs and being cool.
I think you should run NO2 too: C-Dub's NO2 for the Chrismobile. Dude, you work too much - being at work <6:30am. Must be a glutton for punishment.
Gotta say Alta is a class act company...they responded to my questions within an hour..
I'll get him turned around and he will have a functional, cool MINI.
Steve
Awwww man, stick with me & I'll show ya the ropes.
I think you should run NO2 too: C-Dub's NO2 for the Chrismobile. Dude, you work too much - being at work <6:30am. Must be a glutton for punishment.
I think you should run NO2 too: C-Dub's NO2 for the Chrismobile. Dude, you work too much - being at work <6:30am. Must be a glutton for punishment.I do want NOS but not sure how I would pass SMOG.
you are responding to a almost 3 year old & 13000+ posts later thread
. Cool


