Based on some promising new rules, and prospects for next year, I may be selling the mule and starting up with a couple of new cars (MINIs of course).

This is the most tested and sorted MINI in the world I would bet. It has nothing untouched, and the best components are on it. It also carries the Webb Motorsports serial #1 badging.

It is loaded with all three packages, comes with three sets of wheels, and has 11,000 miles on it. Also has CD changer and factory mats.

Build list includes:

H-Sport camber plates
H-Sport rear camber links
H-Sport strut brace
H-Sport tubular swaybar front and competition rear
KW V2 or Leda coilovers - buyers choice
Adjustable heim jointed swaybar droplinks
Webb Motorsports stage 1 brake kit
Alta intake
Webb Motorsports throttle body
15% reduction supercharger pulley
Webb Motorsports water-air intercooler
RC 380cc fuel injectors
M7 Plasma Booster
Nology plug wires
Denso IK22 spark plugs
London Stainless header with race cat
Buyers choice on several cat-back exhaust options
Custom Webb Motorsports ECU programming
Powerflex bushings
Alta short shifter
UUC shift ****
Schroth harness and pads

This car has to be one of the winningest MINIs out there. It swept the BMWCCA series, and has set several top time of day laps at Second Creek Raceway. All set ups included with the car.

It is CR/W.

I don't know if I could bring myself to sell the car, but what do you think I should ask if I did sell? It would cost over $37,000 to start over from scratch.

Randy

_________________

CLICK THE SIG PIC!

This ain't no Disco

 

:smile:

 

 

CR is definitely the fastest color (although for whatever reason, every time we do multi car dyno sessions, the BRG cars always have a few extra baseline ponies - no joke!).

If I do the class that seems to be panning out, most of the parts on the car would be illegal.

With all that is invested in the mule, I could sell, get a stripped down S for the class being considered, and a Cooper to run in H-stock autocrossing.

That would also give me a test mule in the Cooper so I could expand that line instead of always having to hack up someone else's Cooper as a test car.

I don't yet know if I'm serious, just because I would probably cry if I sold it. I'm hoping it may be historically significant someday!

Thanks for giving me a gauge on what it might be worth.

Randy

 

Some pics of the mule:

 

Think $34,000 is fair, or is that just an insane price that shows how I don't really want to sell it?

 

I think blue book plus a few grand if you want it to sell. Maybe $28k ?! Advertising as a mule won't help it much.

 

Have any Dyno numbers you want to post on the car? Also, I think the biggest drawback in buying the mule is the obvious warranty issues with a car that has had everything touched and those 11,000 miles? I've heard how you drive......

I think you would be better off selling most of the parts used here on MCS and selling the car locally for bluebook value plus the extra for the mod's that you leave on the car.

 

I agree with 440 about advertising it as a test mule. We all know how hard you have driven it and all the hard work that has been done one it, dynos or not.

Good Luck tho!

 

I'll probably end up keeping it then. I figure as the mule, it has a little bit of history to it, and it is VERY sorted out.

If someone offerd me $32K for it, I'd run away and start over.

Randy

 

You can always run an ad and see.

 

what class can it run in now without any of the parts being illegal?
Which parts are illegal?
What HP/Torque does it Dyno?
And what are the insurance ramifications - does one tell their ins co about the mods or just figure if the car is totaled they won't get the money back anyhow?

 

>>You can always run an ad and see.

But then I'd have to sell it!

As far as the class, it could run in SM in SCCA autocrossing, or BS or BR in BMWCCA autocrossing. You can also drive it at any Driver Ed for BMWCCA or any club track days. It would also be legal in ITE (regional only class in SCCA).

It currently dynos at 204/186 at the wheels.

The insurance ramifications - you can get a stated amount value policy, which is what I have through State Farm. The premiums are less than my Ford Explorer, and they would vary on all of the normal factors.

I really don't want to sell it! I just bought some new Hoosiers for it too. The fun never ends!

Randy

 

>>I really don't want to sell it! I just bought some new Hoosiers for it too. The fun never ends!
>>
>>Randy

Sounds like you have the MINI indecision bug in addition to your mod bug - you know, the ones that takes over logic and makes you run on pure emotion as you dream of increasing your MINI relationship.

 

Sorry Randy, but to put it nicely and more to the point, realistically, you've got a real nice 15K to 20K car there. Sure there's alot of stuff on it, but as mentioned by a couple other people, I feel the 11,000 miles are a deal killer. In saying this, I'm assuming most of the miles are track/testing ones. If so, I feel it's only probably got another 30 or 40k left in it before major components start going out....and that's only if someone turns it into a dailey driver with no more track time ever put on it.

The longevity of any highly modified car is seriously cut short by the mods and how it was driven. In the back of your mind, you probably know this better than most people. All you need to do is ask yourself, "would I buy it at that price?". It would be to close to senseless to spend 30k on a car that's been thrashed most of it's life, when a brand new, "0" mileage one is only another 7K more.

 

Well, that 7K more is just in parts - not the labor it took or the track and dyno time it took to set it all up and make it work . There are all the parts that work together on it now, and they don't just all mesh harmoniously - that's what took the time and miles to find!

I really think this car will continue to run like a tank for another 70K miles. It is a great little lump of a motor, and I have maintained it as fanatically as you possibly could with the best (Redline, Water Wetter, Motul, etc.).

I understand your point, but I just saw a car that was just as abused as my car, but not as well maintained with half of the components the mule has sell for $28,000. That car had over 20,000 miles.

I guess it just depends on if I have the right buyer - someone that would appreciate the work that goes into making a car like this. It also has to be one of the more "famous" MINIs out there. It has been in several ad campaigns and catalogs, as well as a magazine (though local).

Thanks for the input guys! It will all depend on what the SCCA decides for next year.

Randy

 

>>
>>But then I'd have to sell it!
>>

Just stumble and say... "I have been offered X amount, let me contact you after I speak with them."

_________________
-goin440 IB/IB MC on 17" Volks

 

put it on EBAY and see what someone offers you just set your reserve at $32K and list all the parts and post some pics you'll be out less than $100 and at least you can see what the highest price that someone offered you is.

 

It is up on Ebay, but I can't find it - it's the first time I've used Ebay.

Can anyone find it and post a link?

Thanks!

Randy

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2434197955

You should also get an email containing the link. <--- ebay veteran

 

Ya beat me to it! ... good start to your eBay carreer, Randy!

... now as to this quote:

>>.....It would be to close to senseless to spend 30k on a car that's been thrashed most of it's life, when a brand new, "0" mileage one is only another 7K more.
>>

... a lot has to do with Who has been driving the car - Randy has had people posting that he is one of the smoothest drivers they have ever seen; I think i'd rather buy any car from him than, say, from a Motoring Advisor who has already blown up two low-milage cars ... some jockies whip their mules, and some prefer to just give 'em sugar ...

Good luck on the sale Randy!

 

Thanks!

Randy <---ebay neophyte

 

Randy, 34 is probably fair but be ready to settle for around 32. It all depends on how fast you need to sell it. If you can wait a few months hold out for 34+, if you want to unload it right away advertise it for 34 and say you are flexible. Good Luck!

 

Randy I think the above people are correct when they say that mid to low 20's is probably what you will get. This is not to say you won't ever find someone willing to go over 30 (which by they way is what I believe it is worth for sure), but you could never find that person.

I think you should probably part the car out and that way you would make a TON more money to be used for the new car(s) and plus make some of us marketplace bargain hunters very happy! :smile:

 

Randy,
Don't you have to pay ebay if you do reach a price that is within the reserve price range? This commision adds to the price of selling the car.

Good luck with your auction.