Just curious when changing the air filter on a first generation JCW car do most of you use the oem filter or is there a better option. I'm not really into the ones you have to clean and recoil as I get lazy and would rather just swap a new one in. Also has anyone done the mod with holding the air flap constantly open on the JCW airbox. Thanks for any tips.

 

As a retired mechanic, I always use the paper filters on my cars. The oiled ones cause a lot of issues with throttle body plates and mass air flow sensors. We had some cars towed in because they would not run due to oil and dirt on the sensors

I just put the stock JCW air box on my car, I removed the lower round plug completely, but left the vacuum actuated air flap working as it should

You can start reading my install from here --> https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4532844

Bryan

 

I've had very good results using an Amsoil.

I also use their oil, so I joined the preferred customer program to get discounts.
With discount the a/f is $45:
EAAU3570

https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-ea-u...-filters-eaau/

Tried & true tested too from diverse and various members of NAM, do a search and you'll be able to read a bit more on the topic.

 

I know there are some performance filters that dont need oil. I have a cold air box on my truck and switched from the oiled filter it came with to a paper oilless filter that they sell. Wonder if there is a difference from the mini OEM JCW air filter compared to some of the other companies oem style paper filters.

 

+1 on the Amsoil. Use the stock mounting tab on the end to help keep it stable in the airbox. If going with paper, Mahle is supposed to be the OEM and about $20 less than an OE JCW.

One thing to consider is if a paper element will be damaged by moisture when removing the flap. I went with an Amsoil and removed all of the flap parts in the pic below including the “saucer” part in the top left, or you can leave that part and not worry about sealing the hole in the airbox top.

 

Well what would stop the water from getting to the paper filter at 4500 rpms when the flap opens normally. Not that I plan on driving it in the rain anyway. The video I saw they just used the arm that opens and closes the flapper to prop the flap open all the time and just didnt plug the harness back in when they were done.

 

Nothing, but the airbox is also not open 24, 7 when the flap working as designed. I don't know how much rain/fog/moisture/melted snow your car sees when you drive or if parked outside. I just know water and paper isn't the best combo so it's something I would consider when running a paper filter.

You asked for any tips so I gave some. There's often more than one way to do something so yes, you can prop the flap open with the arm. I wanted to make sure it didn't "un-prop" itself from vibrations, bumps, potholes, etc., so I removed it altogether.

 

I'm almost 70.
Been running "open" element filters on my cars since the 1968.
Don't worry about a little water, not gonna do any harm, even IF it does get to the filter. You've heard of "water injection"...right ? That's where you have a setup that actually squirts water into the intake tract, and eventually ends up...in the cylinders.

Mike

 

I have a Pipercross fitted in a deflapped JCW airbox (already fitted when I bought the car, so no paper comparison). I personally like it, also the Pipercross has a very smooth transition (velocity stack) to the connection on the airbox, which I find important.

I was looking at the K&N 3130, but the K&N does not have a good velocity stack. I also looked at the ITG filter, but couldnt find pictures of the inside.

https://www.knfilters.com/ru-3130-un...-on-air-filter


Compared to a K&N 3190 (I misordered as I wanted to try the 3130...)

 

I just opened it up to see how the filter looked and have another question now. The foam seal on the back side of the lid is pretty much fallen apart. Has anyone had this issue and I was wondering if I can just get some generic foam and put it around there to help seal it to the back.

 

See
my first reply to this thread, click on the link I put in there and you will see what I had to do.... you will have to read a few replies in there

Bryan

 

There ya go > https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...or-not-44.html

 

Got it. I ordered the factory seal. Like you said it takes 2 weeks to come from Germany. You would think they would stock them in the US with all the minis here.

 

Just a note for anyone here who likes the Amsoil filter...

...it appears that they may be out-of-production now?

Not available on their site:
https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-ea-u...-filters-eaau/

As of right now they only offer 5 choices.

The 3555 is available and has close spec but it is 5.5" instead of 7",
so too short.

ECS also lists them as NLA:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-amsoil-p...r/eaau3570~ao/

Was just going to order one for future use to have a spare on hand and noticed that they are NLA --- wonder if this is a temporary production pause or if Amsoil quit making them altogether?

Anyone know the deal?

Possible alternate:

Injen offers a very similar one which appears to be made by Amsoil (or whoever they contract air filter manufacturing to),
but it is .25" wider at base and does not have the "vortex" top...

https://injen.com/i-30497702-injen-t...x-1079-bb.html

.

 

Two other options (yes I love to take pictures haha)

1) Vecchio Engineering filter
I bought a Vecchio Engineering filter, which looks identical to an ITG filter


Compared to a Pipercross







And how it sits in the airbox, fitment at the top is 95%, it has some wiggle room

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jVBamG]


[b]2) Hot Air Intake using a K&N RU-1550





And when fitted

 

Yep the amsoil filter went nla

Only have these ones left. Pipercross, itg, etc

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/13717558382/