JCW JCW Drilled & Slotted Rotors
#1
#7
dba apparently has some two-piece rotors available. I've been working with a vendor for like a year now to try to get a set, and still haven't gotten a price yet. As of the last month or so they're apparently actually made now though. I'm betting they're gonna be pricey, but they should be hotlist.
--Matt
--Matt
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nqr31467 (11-20-2017)
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#8
dba apparently has some two-piece rotors available. I've been working with a vendor for like a year now to try to get a set, and still haven't gotten a price yet. As of the last month or so they're apparently actually made now though. I'm betting they're gonna be pricey, but they should be hotlist.
--Matt
--Matt
“I can supply these for $542.50 inc gst each. They are in stock at DBA so I can order these in for you. Allow 2-3 days from the date of order. Because these are a relatively new rotor, we do not have these on our website yet so to place an order, you can give us a call on 1300 724 943”
That email was from DBA’s stockist in OZ called Brake Direct. Hopefully you guys get better pricing in the US.
The following users liked this post:
nqr31467 (11-20-2017)
#9
Your going to have some fitment issues with pads. I had to grind down Ferodo pads to make them fit. Not uncommon I've been told in racing world.
#10
Since my only issue with the 4 Pot Brembo's on the fronts
was excessive dust build-up, I was able to stay with the
OEM pads with the addition of the Hydro Worx - Power
Sprayer that needs no electrical outlet, which is the problem
in my co-op apartment's garage. By a simple recharging of the
portable battery I'm able to generate more than enough power
needed to thoroughly clean the dust from building up on the
wheels. I simply fill up a 5 gallon 'gas' can with water, which I
wheel to and from the garage on an inexpensive hand truck,
and with the help of a few bungee cords it stays in place on the
hand truck. Insert the hose and begin spraying to my heart's
content. A great solution for those of us without access to a water
supply for our cars and since I can easily wash down the complete
car as well, no need to have the car washed at commercial locations,
thereby saving $ in the long run.
was excessive dust build-up, I was able to stay with the
OEM pads with the addition of the Hydro Worx - Power
Sprayer that needs no electrical outlet, which is the problem
in my co-op apartment's garage. By a simple recharging of the
portable battery I'm able to generate more than enough power
needed to thoroughly clean the dust from building up on the
wheels. I simply fill up a 5 gallon 'gas' can with water, which I
wheel to and from the garage on an inexpensive hand truck,
and with the help of a few bungee cords it stays in place on the
hand truck. Insert the hose and begin spraying to my heart's
content. A great solution for those of us without access to a water
supply for our cars and since I can easily wash down the complete
car as well, no need to have the car washed at commercial locations,
thereby saving $ in the long run.
#11
Well, with spring upon us and the DBA rotors mentioned earlier now present in the states and available, I pulled the trigger on a set. I ordered some Ferodo DS2500 pads to go with them too. Hopefully it'll be a fair upgrade. The rotors appear to drop just under 3lb a corner, and I've always wanted DS2500s. There aren't any pics of them on the web anywhere, so I guess I'll post some when they come. *fingers crossed* here's hoping they don't have gold anodized hubs or something.
--Matt
--Matt
#13
#14
I do not know. We'll see when they come. Anyone have a link to pad change details on this car (or at least some tips)? I assume the "top hats" are those 8 discs I see pictures in the stock pads set? I assume they sit between the pads and pistons? I have only 15k miles on mine, so hopefully they're ok still if new ones aren't provided
--Matt
--Matt
#15
#16
#18
The top hats/pins (Claw Plates per BMW) on the stock JCW pads are annoying because you have to take the caliper off to swap pads. Aftermarket pads usually don't use these plates and have heat-resistant backing instead. Much easier to replace pads without those claw plates for sure.
Here's instruction for the JCW brakes: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnY3JjPeE
Matt, please take some pics of the rotors. Must be real nice and much lighter than stock!
Here's instruction for the JCW brakes: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kes/1VnY3JjPeE
Matt, please take some pics of the rotors. Must be real nice and much lighter than stock!
#19
#20
Pics are right above. I need to set them on a scale to share the weight. How can I tell if the new pads have heat resistant padding? Would it be worth obtaining a new set of claw plates either way? I just don't want to do any damage to these presumably pricy calipers :P
--Matt
--Matt
Endless
OEM M pads
#21
you can't buy the hats alone. i've researched this. i called everyone i could think of. the hats come with the whole kit. i use a pad spreader to push the piston in. this gives me space to wiggle the pad out. fwiw, i also use some disc brake quiet on the back of the pad. it adheres the pad to the hats. challenge with this is that if you swap pads, you'll need to use a sharp knife (pocket knife works fine) to separate the hat from the pad so you can pull the pads off. (this will eliminate removing the caliper entirely)...it's actually REALLY easy once you do it.
source: i swap pads regularly between the track and my daily driving. it's become somewhat of a second nature for me.
fwiw, i'm on G-Loc GS-1 for daily driving (street pad, minimal dust) all around with R10 front / R8 Rear for the track.
also fwiw, to push the caliper pins out, i took a small screwdriver and grinded the edge off. this made the end of the screwdriver flat, allowing me to use a rubber mallet to hit the pins out w/out chipping paint. racing brake sell a brembo caliper pin tool but drum roll...it does NOT fit in our hole...why...not a f*cking damn clue. if there is a different caliper pin tool that does fit, that may be the case. i borrowed my friends pin tool for his F80 and it didn't fit.
anything i can help with, please let me know. btw, please share where in the US you purchased the DBA rotors. thanks.
edit: this is the caliper punch tool that i used that did not fit: https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm
source: i swap pads regularly between the track and my daily driving. it's become somewhat of a second nature for me.
fwiw, i'm on G-Loc GS-1 for daily driving (street pad, minimal dust) all around with R10 front / R8 Rear for the track.
also fwiw, to push the caliper pins out, i took a small screwdriver and grinded the edge off. this made the end of the screwdriver flat, allowing me to use a rubber mallet to hit the pins out w/out chipping paint. racing brake sell a brembo caliper pin tool but drum roll...it does NOT fit in our hole...why...not a f*cking damn clue. if there is a different caliper pin tool that does fit, that may be the case. i borrowed my friends pin tool for his F80 and it didn't fit.
anything i can help with, please let me know. btw, please share where in the US you purchased the DBA rotors. thanks.
edit: this is the caliper punch tool that i used that did not fit: https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm
Last edited by MarcoPolo; 02-21-2018 at 09:14 PM.
#22
edit: this is the caliper punch tool that i used that did not fit: https://www.racingbrake.com/product-p/ccp01.htm