Update: Still chasing the issue. Mini USA has decided to replace the motor.

 

hahaha Mini owners: when did common sense ever come into the equation?

car sounds like a cluster ******. Just get rid of it. Never had those kind of squirrelly issues with my JCW. Sounds like you bought a used JCW without a good background check of it's prior issues.

Yeah modding on top of a problem engine is not smart. But hey. You got a new motor. I'd kiss their *** for that. It's the Mini culture. hahaha Poor man's sports car.

 

1) Fact that drivability issues dont crop up until "overboost" negates bad fuel theory....If bad fuel would run poorly almost all the time.

2) "Bad gas" theory, while it can happen seems more often than not to be the mantra of inexperienced service advisors....IMO better to just say " I don't know " than to make stupid statements like that.

3) Carbon build up/timing chain issue are possibilities. Hope they realize the N18's were not in JCW's until late 2012 ? If purchased used, they
should check with BMW and see what engine work has been performed in the past....bad Timing chain job ( cam bolts backing out ) could cause chain to skip when under load.

4) Have them take off the Intake tube and manually check Turbo for proper movement.

GL!

 

Super helpful.....................jackass.

 

See this article for information.

http://pceo.com/GDI_and_Turbocharging_Rinek

Once I changed my driving style, this has not happened since.

 

And actually, an even better page with more information:

https://www.oronite.com/products/lspi.asp

 

Update: new engine didnt fix the issue. Apparently now they have traced it to a bad coil and think they have fixed the issue. We shall see.

 

lol they put in a new engine then realize it's a coil. unbelievable.

 

yep it's a cluster *****

 

Really?

 

Brace yourselves.


The coil isnt the issue.

We've traced the problem to a rattling turbo heatshield.








Wait, I was wrong, fair is fair. They think the coil has fixed the issue (yes, I know, still odd that they chucked the engine and THEN figured this out. The rattling heatshield is just an ancillary item.


Lets see what transpires.



Yeah, THATS the problem.

 

So I got the car back. They replaced a coil and installed new software, per the dealer.

The car seems to be running much smoother. TOO smooth, in fact. The surge as the turbo spooled has now turned into a very linear ramp up in power, and I dont like it!


Has anyone else experienced this after a software update?

 

Yep, car just does not feel as fast as before. Any suggestions? Think I may hit up a local dyno.

 

Dyno will give you the power sheet and then measure it against some stock dyno numbers on here.

 

Yep. On it.

 

My JCW Coupe is the cheapest car I ever bought in decades and I was aware of its limited performance compared to what I owned before. This is an econobox that can be enjoyed for what it is..... an affordable small engine racer with outstanding handling capabilities.

I believe you may be due for some serious Japanese iron that would probably serve you better. I don't see another Mini in my future but in the meantime, I am still happy.

 

IMO the replacement JCW engines must be stock S engines with new part numbers. If someone were to take the time to ever dismantle one I bet they would find some significant differences internally from the original one ( Strictly Factory JCW speaking here. ) Friend of mine had a Factory 2010 JCW Clubman S, engine was replaced at just 18K miles. He said the same exact thing you have here....he was so upset they double checked the part number for the engine ordered to be sure it was the correct one ( JCW )...he ended up trading it in for something else...

 

Well, the car was about the same when I got it back after the new engine, so that cant be the issue. Its post-software update that has really slowed it down.

 

My 2007 MCS was set up with a JCW turbo, Riss racing catless downpipe, k&n typhoon and a Cobb Accessport. I was dyno checked at 240 hp and it ran great. But under high load roll under 3000 rpm I would supperknock. It took out my number three piston. I completely rebuilt the engine with Carrillo CP forged pistons and still had same situation. I did the following.
First turned off the tune back to stock. Still knocking but less. Removed Riss Racing downpipe next and no more super knocking. Replaced K&N typhoon with JCW airbox. Now it runs smoother and operating temps are reduced. Super knocking is eliminated. Bottom end and mid range torque is increased. Sold Cobb tuner, selling Riss Racing pipe and Typhoon Intake.

 

Interesting read.. to the OP, was it the coils? You left us in limbo here.

 

With regards to super knock.............are the aftermarket race shops like Way,Lohen,Cravenspeed,Sneed4Speed etc finding a way to prevent super knock when they are rebuilding these engines from the bare block and up. Is this a tolerance and measurement problem or does it always come down to software. If we all are getting Superknock on a street driven car - how are enthusiasts club racing, Auto x or tracking their cars without Superknocking all of the time??
Is there any actual solution to Superknocking other than driving the car like a granny and missing out on all the fun?