idle/performance issue
#1
idle/performance issue
Hi guys,
i have an issue with my 03 JCW. The car has been underperforming at low rpm for a while and i cant get off the mark very quick, some say it could be timing? Every now and then she idles weirdly and when my Dad drove it he nearly stalled at first and she struggled to recover the rpms. Today which was very hot the car just cut out and struggled to start a few times. Could this all be related to timing or are there other factors at work?
The car is stock, apart from decatted and a different air filter.
Thanks
i have an issue with my 03 JCW. The car has been underperforming at low rpm for a while and i cant get off the mark very quick, some say it could be timing? Every now and then she idles weirdly and when my Dad drove it he nearly stalled at first and she struggled to recover the rpms. Today which was very hot the car just cut out and struggled to start a few times. Could this all be related to timing or are there other factors at work?
The car is stock, apart from decatted and a different air filter.
Thanks
#3
The car may not throw a code if timing is only off by a tooth. Do you get a rattle that lasts longer than 2-3 seconds on cold startup? If so your tensioner may be sticking and there is a small chance the chain could have skipped a tooth. This is unlikely unless you are getting this rattle.
Other possibilities are vacuum leak or a torn supercharger intercooler boot (boost leak), spark plugs, dirty air filter, dirty fuel filter, bad tank of fuel, regular 87 octane instead of premium fuel, slipping belt, sticking bypass valve, fouled or bad mass air flow sensor, etc. Some of these will throw codes, others won't.
Other possibilities are vacuum leak or a torn supercharger intercooler boot (boost leak), spark plugs, dirty air filter, dirty fuel filter, bad tank of fuel, regular 87 octane instead of premium fuel, slipping belt, sticking bypass valve, fouled or bad mass air flow sensor, etc. Some of these will throw codes, others won't.
#4
#5
The car may not throw a code if timing is only off by a tooth. Do you get a rattle that lasts longer than 2-3 seconds on cold startup? If so your tensioner may be sticking and there is a small chance the chain could have skipped a tooth. This is unlikely unless you are getting this rattle.
Other possibilities are vacuum leak or a torn supercharger intercooler boot (boost leak), spark plugs, dirty air filter, dirty fuel filter, bad tank of fuel, regular 87 octane instead of premium fuel, slipping belt, sticking bypass valve, fouled or bad mass air flow sensor, etc. Some of these will throw codes, others won't.
Other possibilities are vacuum leak or a torn supercharger intercooler boot (boost leak), spark plugs, dirty air filter, dirty fuel filter, bad tank of fuel, regular 87 octane instead of premium fuel, slipping belt, sticking bypass valve, fouled or bad mass air flow sensor, etc. Some of these will throw codes, others won't.
#6
So BMW called today and said that whoever replaced the cylinder head put the wrong spark plugs in, so thats one issue. the to other my supercharger boot needs replacing, however they say that they need to order the sparkplugs from germany? is this true? what sparkplugs does the r53 jcw take?
#7
Wow. A torn boot would definitely cause this. Plugs, not so much but they still should be replaced for the correct specification plugs to avoid any early detonation or plug temperature issues.
Sounds like a good diagnosis but with a "Cadillac" solution.
You don't need to go all the way to Germany for spark plugs for this car.
This NAM thread is a discussion on JCW plugs.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ark-plugs.html
Both plugs and intercooler boots are very easy to replace, certainly not something I think you should be paying $140 per hour in labor. If you don't know how to do this yourself, any decent independent shop with MINI or euro car experience should be able to do both in under 30 minutes.
Sounds like a good diagnosis but with a "Cadillac" solution.
You don't need to go all the way to Germany for spark plugs for this car.
This NAM thread is a discussion on JCW plugs.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ark-plugs.html
Both plugs and intercooler boots are very easy to replace, certainly not something I think you should be paying $140 per hour in labor. If you don't know how to do this yourself, any decent independent shop with MINI or euro car experience should be able to do both in under 30 minutes.
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#8
#10
Sorry man i have been very busy and wasnt able to reply but i have the car back and to be honest i cant really see a differnece in low end power at all. Car still jerks back and forth if im in traffic between 1700rpm and 2200rpm it jerks up and down and up and down on its own. The take off is maybe marginally better but otherwise cant tell anything new
#11
Sorry man i have been very busy and wasnt able to reply but i have the car back and to be honest i cant really see a differnece in low end power at all. Car still jerks back and forth if im in traffic between 1700rpm and 2200rpm it jerks up and down and up and down on its own. The take off is maybe marginally better but otherwise cant tell anything new
Sounds like you might have a bad bypass valve, an issue with early 2004 and earlier R53s. A Detroit Tuned bypass valve might be your answer.
#12
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