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JCW Intake Opinions

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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 12:43 AM
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JCW Intake Opinions

Hello,
I have a 2006 R53 and I purchased it with the JCW intake on it already. I am not one for changing the intake as a first priority, maybe something when having extra money to spend. I recently found out how it actually works with the valve and such with the variable air flow depending on throttle, always just thought it was stock.
I was just wanting some opinions on the performance for the JCW intake versus an aftermarket add on. Is the JCW pulling in enough air for when I plan to increase the boost (after warranty is up ), or would it be better to put an aftermarket one on with a different routing option?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:24 AM
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IMHO, the JCW is a fine piece. If you so desire, there are a few good aftermarket cone filter brands available that replace the expensive stock unit. You can perform the "flapectomy" procedure so as to keep it open all the time. Also, I would check to be sure that the round piece of black plastic has been removed from the cowl area. Why they ever put that piece in there is beyond me.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
IMHO, the JCW is a fine piece. If you so desire, there are a few good aftermarket cone filter brands available that replace the expensive stock unit. You can perform the "flapectomy" procedure so as to keep it open all the time. Also, I would check to be sure that the round piece of black plastic has been removed from the cowl area. Why they ever put that piece in there is beyond me.
+1
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
...You can perform the "flapectomy" procedure so as to keep it open all the time. Also, I would check to be sure that the round piece of black plastic has been removed from the cowl area. Why they ever put that piece in there is beyond me.
Just secure the valve in the open position, or a constant electrical signal to it to command it open? Or just remove all together?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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You can do it without even removing the box if you know ur way around cai system. just stick ur hand in the cowl area, open the flap and pull the bar out of the hole to open/close the flap. then un-hook the electrical plug and place to side of cowl.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 05:16 PM
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Here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ification.html

BTW, Houston, pick a name, sign up and join NAM. This is a great place!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
Here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ification.html

BTW, Houston, pick a name, sign up and join NAM. This is a great place!
Thank you. Read through and not really any "power" difference, just a whine. Personally, I will not do the mod to my R53. Kind of got off topic though from the orignal inquirery, but useful information none the less.
Any one know of any dyno results for the JCW intake then a change to an aftermarket one for a second run? I know that CAI don't really do much without the proper tuning, but it would be nice to view the charts for comparison to see if there is any actual gain/loss.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 07:14 PM
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I just installed the JCW Intake on my R53 yesterday. It is not loud at all in the cockpit, just more of the SC whine, which I really like. I also think the car is more responsive, but that could just be my mind playing tricks on me.

I did not hook up the electronics or the vacuum line as the unit I bought had already had the flap removed. Everything is working tip top. I have an ALTA foam filter in mine.

I personally like to keep the stock look which is reason enough for me to not install an aftermarket unit. Of the aftermarket units I've seen, the Dinan seems to look the closest to stock.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:26 AM
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Just keep the JCW, add ITG filter if you really got itch to spend.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 09:48 AM
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You can also use an Amsoil filter. I don't remember which part number but I did a quick search on filters and found it in the first thread. I have the paperwork when I ordered it somewhere and will look for it
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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the JCW air box is fine, but i will say that putting a "performance" intake hose added like 5 hp to my ride so, spend a couple bucks and get a used alta / samco intake hose and feel the power!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by astroBlackMetallic_Mini
the JCW air box is fine, but i will say that putting a "performance" intake hose added like 5 hp to my ride so, spend a couple bucks and get a used alta / samco intake hose and feel the power!
Thanks, I was looking at the silicone hoses. Makes sense when you think about letting the air flow easily. I was planing on installing it, but I need to check if it voids any warranty (never know, the dealer can always claim it does)
I kind of regret the extended warranty.... But, this is my first Mini, and I know BMWs like to leak, and I hate repairing leaks. Had two leaks when I bought it, so better safe then sorry!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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there is someone selling a red alta IH in the parts forum. Scoop that one up

As for warranty, i wouldnt think it would void it, i have the IH and i have lots of repair work done at mini, they never complain! (however, MY warranty is through carmax, so, you may wanna check with Your particular mini dealer).

as for your extended warranty, Good Job! id say no regrets there man, bc, if ANYTHING goes out on these cars, its an arm and a leg to get stuff fixed... mostly bc parts cost so much!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Thanks for looking out! I actually called my extended warranty yesterday about some other items to see if they void anything. (been meaning to do it for awhile, YaY laziness!)
I found out they are really lenient actually, and they judge on the basis for whatever breaks if the mod caused it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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ive actually bit the bullet and let the dealer do most of my performance upgrades, JUST for that reason: if it breaks, i can blame it on the Dealer! and the dealer will have to fix it for free, plus you get warranty on the parts / labor from the dealer!

this is great, bc i had the dealer do my pulley upgrade... and guess what? they put it all on wrong! caused the pulley to start to shred, they had to pull it all apart basically, re-adjust the pulley, and i got a new belt too.

i also let them do my coil pack, wires and plugs. i can DO that stuff myself, but it was cool the dealer did it bc the engine pitched a fit when they put on the new CP. so, after a while of 3 techs working on my car all at once, they did some computer magic and fixed the issue. not sure what went wrong, but they got it going.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Nice. The dealership I worked at did not provide warranty on aftermarket parts, only OEM. We did a full upgrades for our customers, but the dealer usually turned them down because they did not want the liability. Infiniti dealership though
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:38 AM
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hmm. perhaps mini is different... ive brought my car in to have them check the SES lights bc of my upgrades, at no cost.

they were (are) bummed that they havent been able to solve the stupid P1080 codes yet.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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Probably just a cool dealership.
Since it is a P1XXX code, could not find the details because the P1 codes are manufacturer. What does it stand for?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 05:23 AM
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P1080 is a "common" code for pulley upgraded MCS drivers. its an "overboost" issue, according to the ECU.

im also now facing P1498 Codes: "unmetered air after supercharger"
basically, theres a vacuum leak "somewhere" "after" the supercharger... could be almost anything, anywhere, any TINY leak... just came on yesterday, still fighting it today...

most OBD readers will give you a good description of the codes. very few ive had are "manufacturer specific"
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 11:47 AM
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When OBDII was instated as mandatory so you would not have to take your car to the dealer, the universal codes that all stand for the same think no matter what make are P0XXX codes. The manufacturers have to use those on the systems, but any manufacturer can use the P1XXX codes for any system they want, they do not have to be a certain number for a certain system, like the P0XXX codes.
In example: Your P1080 code means the vehicle is getting too much boost. Another manufacturer can use it for a bad relay if they wish. The P1XXX codes are not mandated to be for a certain system.

The Goggle results I got all came up for Volvos, something about running lean. Would makes sense with over boost for the Mini. But, they are both euros so they are most likely going to be similar
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 11:52 AM
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unfortunately, Pre- '07 cars OBD is fairly "dumb" compared to now. they give much more "generalized" information with their codes. Even mini says that a code can mean 8 different things, and the descriptions dont nec mean what they say!
 
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