Interior/Exterior Discreet GPS mod
Discreet GPS mod
Okay, I'll start this with the disclaimer that lots of thought went into the location of the GPS, and this is not the best location. It is instead a compromise arrived at due to the following motivation: A recent rash of thefts where the criminals looked for the GPS mount or tell tale GPS suction cup ring left on the windshield in the morning condensation, not wanting to see a power cord dangling, and a "mini" glovebox where the GPS occupies prime real estate.
The best location seems to be next to the tach, which many mounting kits are available for. Problem with that is it is still noticable and it prevents adding piggyback guages. So the visor it is. It already has a power source, it's as easy to glance at as the rear view mirror, and folds up for zero visibility. You can even fold it up and listen to the directions sans the screen.
Here's where the compromise comes in; The taller you are, the more the visor being down blocks your view. For shorties it's great though.
I push the visor all the way against the windshield which makes the screen less visible, but opens the view.

The mod is not terribly difficult. A few hours should do. Start by unscrewing the visor and unplugging the vanity molex.

Next, slide a flathead between the vanity housing and visor and pop out the vanity

Using the GPS mounting clip provides a solid mount and the ability to easily remove the unit to take with or use in other vehicles. This also ensures that with the window down and visor pointed out the window, your GPs will not end up bouncing down the street. Cut through the first layer of plastic to flush mount the clip. Use plastic epoxy and be sure to abrade the mounting surfaces before applying. Do not put epoxy on the upper third of the clip. This will leave it free to flex for GPS removal. The key in this step is to create a recess for the power plug. Slip an insulator between the visor and registration strap. That will protect it from the heat necessary to mold the recess. A pyropen with shrink attachment works great for heating the plastic. Once complete, remove the insulator and all that is noticible from the other side is a slight bump.

Since the GPS plug houses a 5v power supply, it is easiest to cut the end off and solder on the vanity plug from the vehicle. This will mate with the plug on the vanity, maintaining it's disconnectability.

Solder the cut end inside the visor and you have effectively routed the power supply into the visor using the factory mini disconnect. Observe polarity.

Cut the lid of the vanity into trim pieces and epoxy in place on the left and right.

Solder about 2' of wire to the input of the GPS plug. Remove factory clock and run the power supply input and output (already with factory plug installed) wires to the visor opening. Connect the power supply input wires to the factory wires that fed the visor. Observe polarity. Plug in the visor and mount.

Wrap the power supply in something soft to prevent rattles in the overhead.
Place in void to the left of clock.

This step is optional. I wired a switch to the power input so that the GPS would not turn on every time I turned the key on.

Sorry this is hastily put together. I'm not sure if anyone will find merit in this mod, but if there is interest, I'll clean it up and expand on the details.
Tim
The best location seems to be next to the tach, which many mounting kits are available for. Problem with that is it is still noticable and it prevents adding piggyback guages. So the visor it is. It already has a power source, it's as easy to glance at as the rear view mirror, and folds up for zero visibility. You can even fold it up and listen to the directions sans the screen.
Here's where the compromise comes in; The taller you are, the more the visor being down blocks your view. For shorties it's great though.
I push the visor all the way against the windshield which makes the screen less visible, but opens the view.

The mod is not terribly difficult. A few hours should do. Start by unscrewing the visor and unplugging the vanity molex.

Next, slide a flathead between the vanity housing and visor and pop out the vanity

Using the GPS mounting clip provides a solid mount and the ability to easily remove the unit to take with or use in other vehicles. This also ensures that with the window down and visor pointed out the window, your GPs will not end up bouncing down the street. Cut through the first layer of plastic to flush mount the clip. Use plastic epoxy and be sure to abrade the mounting surfaces before applying. Do not put epoxy on the upper third of the clip. This will leave it free to flex for GPS removal. The key in this step is to create a recess for the power plug. Slip an insulator between the visor and registration strap. That will protect it from the heat necessary to mold the recess. A pyropen with shrink attachment works great for heating the plastic. Once complete, remove the insulator and all that is noticible from the other side is a slight bump.

Since the GPS plug houses a 5v power supply, it is easiest to cut the end off and solder on the vanity plug from the vehicle. This will mate with the plug on the vanity, maintaining it's disconnectability.

Solder the cut end inside the visor and you have effectively routed the power supply into the visor using the factory mini disconnect. Observe polarity.

Cut the lid of the vanity into trim pieces and epoxy in place on the left and right.

Solder about 2' of wire to the input of the GPS plug. Remove factory clock and run the power supply input and output (already with factory plug installed) wires to the visor opening. Connect the power supply input wires to the factory wires that fed the visor. Observe polarity. Plug in the visor and mount.

Wrap the power supply in something soft to prevent rattles in the overhead.
Place in void to the left of clock.

This step is optional. I wired a switch to the power input so that the GPS would not turn on every time I turned the key on.

Sorry this is hastily put together. I'm not sure if anyone will find merit in this mod, but if there is interest, I'll clean it up and expand on the details.
Tim
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Ironically enough, no. I use it infrequently, so I tend to forget it when I go places. This gives it a home and the ability to take it out. (also why I don't mind the compromise of location)
Great work! Just wondering if you could put the internals of the power supply in the visor as well and just leave the visor wiring as it is? That way you don't have to mess with the clock at all. And you could put your switch there somewhere too. Hmm... maybe the visor isn't powered if the lights are off?
Anyway, clever idea
Anyway, clever idea
Tried that
Great work! Just wondering if you could put the internals of the power supply in the visor as well and just leave the visor wiring as it is? That way you don't have to mess with the clock at all. And you could put your switch there somewhere too. Hmm... maybe the visor isn't powered if the lights are off?
Anyway, clever idea
Anyway, clever idea
The actual power supply with no casing was too tight a fit between the front and back cover. The in line filter just below the plug also kept me from fitting it in there. I originally hoped it would all fit nice and consolodated in there (was surprised at the size of the board). Just as an FYI the visor is powered with the rest of the accessories, so it will work as long as the key is on and for 15-20 mins after removed.
In the end it probably comes down to MONEY!!!
hah, i wish i didnt have the stupidly huge spedometer in the center of my dash...
Wanna trade?
actually, i would be willing to get rid of my single tach above the steering, and the speedo with appropriate mounting bezels in return for a trade of the dual cluster and just the empty nav bezel and rings. they are extraordinarily easy to switch out. i dont know if coding is needed or not though.
if your interested. pm me.
-Ryan
Last edited by wyefye; Sep 24, 2009 at 10:50 AM.
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