How To Interior/Exterior :: Boot Stripes DIY Install With Pictures
#26
Hey guys,
I just installed some of Asthetic creations' Viper stripes on my hood and down the grill and bumper.
The "wet" application works ok for the large flat stuff, but it's hard to do it wet with the smaller pieces.
With the dry application it's much easier to remove the release liner from the top of the vinyl. With the wet application, the release liner will try to lift the vinyl if it's not completely dry and stuck VERY well to the surface.
The down side of the dry application is some very small bubbles under the vinyl. Mike says that these bubbles will lay down after a couple of weeks. I hope so.... they're already improving..... will try to be patient and see what happens.
I just installed some of Asthetic creations' Viper stripes on my hood and down the grill and bumper.
The "wet" application works ok for the large flat stuff, but it's hard to do it wet with the smaller pieces.
With the dry application it's much easier to remove the release liner from the top of the vinyl. With the wet application, the release liner will try to lift the vinyl if it's not completely dry and stuck VERY well to the surface.
The down side of the dry application is some very small bubbles under the vinyl. Mike says that these bubbles will lay down after a couple of weeks. I hope so.... they're already improving..... will try to be patient and see what happens.
#27
#28
Originally Posted by RonP
Question.
I replaced some hood decals on a Toyota truck I used to own. When I did this I was told to use a liquid (dish soap and warm water mixture) to lightly spray on first then lay the decal down. Doing this allowed workability with the decal to get all the bubbles and wrinkles out. After a couple of hours the mixture would dry and the decal became permanent.
Has anyone done it this way? It's been so long I don't remember exactly how I did it and what the water to soap ratio was.
I replaced some hood decals on a Toyota truck I used to own. When I did this I was told to use a liquid (dish soap and warm water mixture) to lightly spray on first then lay the decal down. Doing this allowed workability with the decal to get all the bubbles and wrinkles out. After a couple of hours the mixture would dry and the decal became permanent.
Has anyone done it this way? It's been so long I don't remember exactly how I did it and what the water to soap ratio was.
#29
Thanks again ImagoX. Your write up helped me out quite a bit. My stripes came yesterday and I almost finished up before it got too dark but I'll install the new badge on the boot tomorrow. Here are my results: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=73866
#30
A quick tip. Before removing the original badge run one solid piece of tap completely across the under (or upper) side of the badge. Then, cut away where the boot stripe will go. Once done installing the boot stripe run a second piece of tape over the top two pieces left from the original tape. This will allow you to simply and easily get the new badge on straight. No eyeballing or levels needed.
I'm going to attempt the wet install to decrease the bubbles and possible wrinkles. My boot stripes shipped today.
Hey dragonflyer, do you have a recommended mixture for doing wet installs?
I'm going to attempt the wet install to decrease the bubbles and possible wrinkles. My boot stripes shipped today.
Hey dragonflyer, do you have a recommended mixture for doing wet installs?
#32
Originally Posted by schulzmc
Since it is only the "COOPE" that ends up on the stripe - did anyone ever consider leaving the "RS" in place as a guide and only taking off (and replacing) the first five letters?
#33
Originally Posted by RonP
A quick tip. Before removing the original badge run one solid piece of tap completely across the under (or upper) side of the badge. Then, cut away where the boot stripe will go. Once done installing the boot stripe run a second piece of tape over the top two pieces left from the original tape. This will allow you to simply and easily get the new badge on straight. No eyeballing or levels needed.
PS- all tiny bubbles from my "dry" install dissappeared after one hot day in the sun.
#37
#38
All done.
I'm not too sure I like the look of the badge where it's at. I put it back exactly where the original was and was so concerned with doing that I did not step back to see how it looked against the stripe. It hangs over both sides a bit, not too sure I like that. I had a thought of ordering up a new one and replacing it, any thoughts on how easy it would come off with the new stripe underneath or should I leave it well enough alone?
I'm not too sure I like the look of the badge where it's at. I put it back exactly where the original was and was so concerned with doing that I did not step back to see how it looked against the stripe. It hangs over both sides a bit, not too sure I like that. I had a thought of ordering up a new one and replacing it, any thoughts on how easy it would come off with the new stripe underneath or should I leave it well enough alone?
#40
Originally Posted by RonP
All done.
I'm not too sure I like the look of the badge where it's at. I put it back exactly where the original was and was so concerned with doing that I did not step back to see how it looked against the stripe. It hangs over both sides a bit, not too sure I like that. I had a thought of ordering up a new one and replacing it, any thoughts on how easy it would come off with the new stripe underneath or should I leave it well enough alone?
I'm not too sure I like the look of the badge where it's at. I put it back exactly where the original was and was so concerned with doing that I did not step back to see how it looked against the stripe. It hangs over both sides a bit, not too sure I like that. I had a thought of ordering up a new one and replacing it, any thoughts on how easy it would come off with the new stripe underneath or should I leave it well enough alone?
#41
Mine came today and I put them on tonight. I used my idea of leaving the "R S" of the badge in place and only taking off the "COOPE". That worked great - it was super easy to restore the "COOPE" with the new badge to the exact same place it was. (I cut off the R S" part of the new badge.) My ten year old son did try to talk me into using the leftover "P" from the original badge to make it a "POOPER S". The other thing I did differently than some have done was leaving the top untrimmed and simply wrapping it all over into the boot. I hope the top edge will be less likely to come loose that way.
I do have a few small bubbles that I will leave alone for a few days and see if they go away on their own. Otherwise it's needle time.
Thanks for all the help and ideas in this thread!
I do have a few small bubbles that I will leave alone for a few days and see if they go away on their own. Otherwise it's needle time.
Thanks for all the help and ideas in this thread!
#42
#43
I love the way your badge hangs off to one side. I went ahead and removed mine. I sent a PM to dragonflyer for a replacement. It bugged me too much to have it the way it was and if I did not remove it now it would be more difficult after the sticky tape started to harden. Good thing, it came right off with no damage to the stripe.
So for now my baby is badgeless.
So for now my baby is badgeless.
#47
#48