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Trunk lid grip button not working – DIY

Trunk lid grip button not working – DIY

  #26  
Old 09-02-2015, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by nattyhyde View Post
I'm having an issue with the number plate bulbs not working tried various bulbs still no good tested the connector and I'm getting 14v there any ideas what the middle cable on the connector is for ? Cheers


hello.

The middle cable power the trunk lid bulbs and the micro switch itself. Sounds like you have a break in the short connection on the grip side. Check the interior wire for crud and corrosion, also the metal tabs that hold the bulbs can corrode it the plastic clear lens covers fell off or did get moisture past the lens.

Thanks
 
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  #27  
Old 11-09-2015, 04:05 PM
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Looking at buying a used R56 and the owner explained his latch had stopped working. Thanks to this thread I was able to determine that the issue that was scaring me is no longer a worry, THANKS!!!
 
  #28  
Old 11-09-2015, 05:04 PM
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Trunk Lid Handle Grip and Trunk Lid Lock

I just joined this group.. this is my very first post so I hope I am doing this right. I just replaced my Trunk Lid Handle on my 2007 Mini. The rubber handle was rotted out so I bought the entire piece to replace. I made the connections and screwed everything back in place. I tested the lights.. it worked... I tested the trunk opener on my key fob.. it worked. I used the handle grip to open the hatch.. it worked. Then I locked my car with the Key Fob.. everything locked.. except my hatch. I took everything apart to make sure I installed it right .. checked everything again... and had the same problem. The ONLY way I can get my hatch to lock is to have one of my key fobs in the ignition, then with the other key fob in hand.. lock the car and then the hatch locks. IF I take that key fob out of the ignition and try to lock the car.. all locks with exception of rear hatch. I called the dealer and was told I now need to purchase a Trunk Lid Lock and that is what my problem is. I am writing in hopes that someone on this panel knows if this is correct or if I am being told something so that I have to shell out more money. Does ANYONE know why this is happening and if there is another option? Thank you in advance everyone!!
 
  #29  
Old 11-10-2015, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by goneFXcrazy View Post
Looking at buying a used R56 and the owner explained his latch had stopped working. Thanks to this thread I was able to determine that the issue that was scaring me is no longer a worry, THANKS!!!

Great
 
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  #30  
Old 12-12-2015, 09:26 AM
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ECSTuning,

today my trunk button was working ok, but (I don't know why) today I was opening the trunk by touching the button and nothing. I checked the car was totally unlocked (ok) and then I touched the button again. BUT I could hear a noise like some plastic under the button crashed

Now the button is still not working and it feels different (like less resistance).
I'm sure it was too much pressure with my hand and something is wrong inside the button.

I have the trunk lid grip in my hand and I was checking how to access the button, but I can see now, here, in this thread that the button is not accessible (I suspected that).

I'm searching for a new button (I need an entire trunk lid grip), and I was checking your links.
My car is a Mini Cooper 2010 non-S.
P/N: 51132753603
I was searching for the black one (actually mine is black, thanks to plastidip )

It is for my car model? (Specs don't say about gen nor year):

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit..._Grip/ES78252/

Thank you!
 

Last edited by miniuy; 12-12-2015 at 10:46 AM.
  #31  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:48 PM
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replaced my trunk button today- got really tired of the random pop openings when starting or closing the doors and not being able to utilize the button to open the hatch without the key fob.
 
  #32  
Old 12-14-2015, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by miniuy View Post
ECSTuning,

today my trunk button was working ok, but (I don't know why) today I was opening the trunk by touching the button and nothing. I checked the car was totally unlocked (ok) and then I touched the button again. BUT I could hear a noise like some plastic under the button crashed

Now the button is still not working and it feels different (like less resistance).
I'm sure it was too much pressure with my hand and something is wrong inside the button.

I have the trunk lid grip in my hand and I was checking how to access the button, but I can see now, here, in this thread that the button is not accessible (I suspected that).

I'm searching for a new button (I need an entire trunk lid grip), and I was checking your links.
My car is a Mini Cooper 2010 non-S.
P/N: 51132753603
I was searching for the black one (actually mine is black, thanks to plastidip )

It is for my car model? (Specs don't say about gen nor year):

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit..._Grip/ES78252/

Thank you!

Hello for Gen 2 MINIs its 51132754240 for the primed ready to paint or plasti dip, comes with the light bulbs and lens already to install.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51132754240/




Thanks
 
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  #33  
Old 12-14-2015, 08:42 AM
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We also have the trunk lid primed here, chrome here, and carbon fiber version here.
 
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  #34  
Old 12-14-2015, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
Hello for Gen 2 MINIs its 51132754240 for the primed ready to paint or plasti dip, comes with the light bulbs and lens already to install.
Thanks
Thank you for your response!
I thought that you also had it in glossy black.
 
  #35  
Old 12-14-2015, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com View Post
We also have the trunk lid primed here, chrome here, and carbon fiber version here.
Thank you for your links Pelican!
 
  #36  
Old 12-14-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by miniuy View Post
Thank you for your links Pelican!
You're very welcome. If you need anything else, I'm here to help.
 
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  #37  
Old 12-14-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by miniuy View Post
Thank you for your response!
I thought that you also had it in glossy black.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...k-release.html

Welcome , i have fixed these on the gen 1 and Gen 2 MINIs and my own personal car, in Gen 2 you can do a transplant of the primed one of your old cover to save the outside painted part of design, Linked diy above as well as all the other options like Carbon fiber and Chrome. On Gen 2 MINIs they did not come in black, That was gen 1 MINI in black primed look and in Gen 3 MINI it comes in shiny black.

If you want to know about trunk grip handles we are the place.
 
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  #38  
Old 12-15-2015, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for the write up, I ordered the carbon fiber one just to make the fix easier. Once I took the old one off I noticed it had just come unplugged. Oh well got the carbon fiber now
 
  #39  
Old 12-15-2015, 09:00 AM
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Button is working!

Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!

It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.

I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
 
  #40  
Old 12-15-2015, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ridinDirty View Post
Thanks for the write up, I ordered the carbon fiber one just to make the fix easier. Once I took the old one off I noticed it had just come unplugged. Oh well got the carbon fiber now

Welcome.



Originally Posted by miniuy View Post
Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!

It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.

I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
Yes the button is more in the middle on the R56 vers the R53 R52 R50, its center and take a second or two once pressed for the release, like the microswitch has a little delay ( compared to my R52 ), and has to be touched spot on, like this on my R58 w/ Comfort access. You could always wrap the rear trunk grip in 3M gloss , matches the factory black line trim very close.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/3m_Wrap/


 
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  #41  
Old 12-16-2015, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by miniuy View Post
Fortunately yesterday I discovered that the button works!

It seems there is something wrong with the button but if pressed in the center (a little deeper than some days ago) it works perfectly.
Maybe the button has always locked by something and now it is unlocked. Or maybe just I broke something that is not serious.

I still like the F56 trunk lid handle (abs plastic cover) in glossy black.
Glad it's working. You can always get yours painted gloss black by a body shop or do it yourself with rattle cans.
 
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  #42  
Old 01-11-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
+1 Nice write up. And a great job on the walk through.

Yes the part number for just the Trunk lid grip base backing part does not come up. Its only as one full part. Popping the rear cover off is great for people who want to transfer the internals and save on painting the new one.

Trunk Lid Grip - Primed Part number 51132754240
I've noticed the rubber cover on the hatch button on my 2007 MCS is cracking and I'm sure it's just a matter of time now before the moisture will kill the switch. Does this replacement part above include the rubber seal as well?
 
  #43  
Old 01-11-2016, 08:16 AM
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Yes.


 
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  #44  
Old 03-21-2016, 01:54 PM
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2006 convertible. The rear hatch was not working at all. I checked the function of the switch with a meter and the motor by jumping. Both worked fine. Based on a tip in a previous message, l thought it might be a bad wire in the run between the hatch and the body. So I bypassed the brown/grey and green/grey wires and voila; back in operation! The wires are of very small gauge which may explain their demise from the opening and closing of the hatch.
 
  #45  
Old 03-21-2016, 02:15 PM
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Yep, you have a break in the wire harness. Did you tap in a new wire, was it corroded or just a break ?

Gen 1 is here :

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ght-cover.html

Or here:

Gen 1

51247114535

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51247114535/





Gen 1

Here is the Gen 1 R50 R52 R53 License plate grip :




Here is the grip handles if you need them because the unit is damaged, not just the lens.

Dependent on your options and version. The housing is rear handle.

"Chrome" version. 51137074020


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51137074020/ES78095/




"Primed" Version: ( for painted rear trunk grips ) 51137075582


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51137075582/ES78098/


"Black" Version: ( for basic or black rear trunk grips )


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51137167530/ES78252/





Trunk Lid Grip - JCW Carbon Fiber 51130395503


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51130395503/





------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the Gen 2 R56 R57 R58 R59 + License plate light cover:






Lens themselves: 51132756227

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51132756227/







Here is the grip handles if you need them because the unit is damaged, not just the lens.

There is a primed version: Part # 51132754240 ( people transfer there painted cover to the new front part of the handle. )


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51132754240/



&

The chrome version.

Trunk Lid Grip - Chrome Part # 51132753603


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51132753603/





There is also a carbon fiber version.

JCW Carbon Fiber Lid Grip 51130415377


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51130415377/





***

Link to great DIY for the Gen 2 MINI version.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rking-diy.html
 
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 02-25-2019 at 05:00 AM.
  #46  
Old 03-21-2016, 03:28 PM
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I just bypassed with lamp cord outside the rubber boot connecting the trunk lid to the body. I didn't bother to open the rubber boot to see the cause of the problem. The other functions fed by the wires inside the boot (lights) were working fine so I didn't want to bother them. I don't think corrosion was the issue because the car is not exposed to the elements and there are no other signs of corrosion. Thanks about letting me know I have Gen 1. So I have provided the same message in that forum.
 
  #47  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by streetgj7 View Post
I just bypassed with lamp cord outside the rubber boot connecting the trunk lid to the body. I didn't bother to open the rubber boot to see the cause of the problem. The other functions fed by the wires inside the boot (lights) were working fine so I didn't want to bother them. I don't think corrosion was the issue because the car is not exposed to the elements and there are no other signs of corrosion. Thanks about letting me know I have Gen 1. So I have provided the same message in that forum.
My R56 is garage kept and the switch boot still suffered cracking and caused switch to fail and randomly pop the trunk while traveling down the road... replaced and been back in business as normal.
 
  #48  
Old 04-25-2016, 02:00 PM
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U can just replace the switch

[QUOTE=RandyR90S;3791230]Replace and Install

Now that you know the handle switch is at fault, here’s how to replace and repair….

Replace the trunk lid grip
Parts/tools:
Mini Cooper part 51132753603:
Handle, trunk lid, with lamp unit Chrome line exterior

Unfortunately you can't order just the switch - it appears to be molded into the housing.

This is the part !

http://new.minimania.com/part/NMX860...nZ9RoCIZfw_wcB

Lot of work tho to remove the old but install of new was easy.
 
  #49  
Old 04-25-2016, 03:50 PM
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I had ordered the CF , once I got the thing apart i noticed the plug was halfway in. Pushed in and out a few times to clean the contracts up. Worked fine.
Changed it out to the CF since I had it in hand.....

Others might want to take it apart first to see if its a simple fix sounds like..
 
  #50  
Old 06-04-2016, 02:54 AM
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Hi All,

Our button release stopped working and googling brought me to this thread. Once I tried the helpful trick of checking the wiring (will only work when the car is unlocked) with a paper clip, I knew it was the switch itself and not a wiring fault. So I decided to take it apart to see if it was fixable. I didnt have to worry about breaking it since it was junk anyway.

What I found was there is a small micro switch with a cover/spacer thing on there which presses the microswitch when you depress the rubber button. This plastic part had come away from the microswitch so the button couldn't activate it. So I glued it back on with no nails and its all working again.





 

Last edited by Mr_Taipan; 06-07-2016 at 07:12 AM.
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