I sent this to a member and decided that others might find this simple process useful.

The side scuttle lens releases from inside the front wing panel. I substituted LEDs for the original amber lamps. To use the LEDs, I had to code-out the bulb checks with the NCS Expert software, however. If you use silver-painted bulbs, you won't have to make code changes or add resistors to stop the "bulb out" warning.

Here is the finished product:


Open the bonnet and look in the area behind the scuttles:


You will see two gray "tabs", one at the top and one at the bottom of the scuttle lens. Squeeze the lower tab's "arch" and push it out so the lens separates from the scuttle:


Lens separated:


Lens removed from scuttle:


Twist the bulb carrier 1/4 turn to remove the carrier from the lens:


Hope this is helpful.

Theo

 

Looks good Koopah! I wanted to point out though, that there isn't a bulb check on the side scuttles on mine he's a 11' CMCS.

 

Yes! Experimented yesterday and I stand corrected. Mine is a '12 R60.

 

Nice Job Koopah…Again we at NAM are very appreciative of the time and patience both of you guys (GeoffreyM) have taken with us…my feelings at least.

Mine's a 2011 as well, does that mean I can go LED and not worry about an error code.

 

You can also replace the bulbs without removing the scuttles.

 

Glad that you turned the PM into a thread, Koopah. Very helpful! Assuming we go with a standard bulb (non-LED), what bulb do we need for the side scuttles?

 

You are replacing a "wedge base bulb". You should reference the 2825 bulb type (A.K.A.; W5W, 168, 194).

You can go two routes to making the side scuttles (close to) clear: mirrored/chrome incandescent bulbs that illuminate as amber, or amber/yellow LEDS (this is what I am using). After testing I can confirm that neither bulb will need a resistor or coding when used in the side scuttles. Personally, I find the LEDs to be much brighter than the mirrored/chrome bulbs.

HERE is one source for mirrored/chrome bulbs.

HERE are the bulbs that I used.

HTH,

 

Thanks, Koopah. It does help.

If they are brighter, I'd prefer to go with LEDs. Is yours a 2011 or 2012 model? I vaguely recall a post somewhere to the effect that owners of 2011 models could get away with LEDs in certain places that owners of 2012 models could not.

Also, forgive my ignorance, but the site you linked to for incandescent bulbs lists, as separate items, both a "2825" and a "168/194." Are these identical?

 

1. The LEDs are way brighter. IMHO, the mirrored coating on the incandescent lamps make them a bit dim.

2. I have a '12 R60.

3. For all intents and purposes, they are interchangeable.

Also, earlier this week I reset the lamp checks back to factory default, and then replaced all of my LEDs with the original lamps. I then tried substituting LEDs in several places to see if they would cause a problem. I was able to replace the side scuttle, interior, and puddle (door) lamps without generating lamp checks. I think you'll be fine with the LEDs in the scuttles, Hujan.

I did not test the license plate lamps but can assure you that substituting LEDs for the front turn indicators and city lights most definitely causes lamp checks!

So, on my R60, I have LEDs in the following locations:

- front city lights * (upper half of fog light module)
- front turn indicators *
- rear license plate lights **
- side scuttles
- puddle lights
- interior dome light
- boot light

* verified LEDs will cause lamp checks
** did not verify that LEDs will cause lamp checks but coded-out anyway

 

My Led setup is this:

- front city lights (upper half of fog light module)
- rear license plate lights
- puddle lights
- interior dome light
- boot light

For the license plate lights i opted for this solution (kinda expensive i know.. but the results are great): http://www.ebay.it/itm/2er-Set-LED-K...fb998ed&_uhb=1

It's a led module for the clubman, but as i checked on RealOEM the light holder is the same as on the countryman.. So i gave it a shot. I attach a couple of pics, the leds are extremely powerful!