I hope someone can help me with a belt problem. For some reason, I'm shredding my belt. I'm on my second shredded belt. Only the furthest edge (maybe 2 ribs) away from the engine is getting shredded. I can't seem to find what's causing it.

The second install, I made sure everything was lined up correctly and it still happened.

I'm at my wits end with this crap.

HELP!

 

I do not understand why this is happening. There has to be something catching the belt. When and if you put in another belt, keep the belt visible, and watch it as the engine runs. Wear eyewear protection.

 

I found the cause. Apparently, the belt looks to be too wide. The original measures 20 mm and the replacements (one from dealer the other from pepboys) measures about 22mm.

When installed, the belt looks like its properly seated however, the alternator pulley has a lip that pushes the belt towards the tire. When the belt spins, it hangs off the end of the compressor pulley which has the lip on the outside. It stretches and eventually breaks.

Now to find the proper belt.

 

What the numbers on the belt, see back a page for example:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...acement-4.html

Also are you on the stock pulleys or did someone change a part at some time?

 

The NAPA part is
Micro-V 25

Part #: 060355 6PK903

It is a Gates belt. This is the 20mm belt required for a 2009 jcw (early model).

At least this is what mine required. How or why the dealer gave me a 22mm belt is beyond me. It is best to measure your old belt before ordering one.

 

BTW, you can use a pair of large vice grips to move the tensioner pulley. Just clamp it on the big nut and use a pipe over the vice handle (the one without the lock lever). The longer the pipe, the easier it is to move. Remove the torx screw holding the pipe to the grille and move the the pipe from the intercooler. You don't need to disconnect it where it attaches at the bottom. Just twist it out of the way. It will be tight but there is just enough room to get a finger down there to press the button to lock the tensioner in the up position. Just watch yourself and be careful!!!!

 

Thanks for the info and update.

 

Update: The metal impellar water pumps from Febi are on hold right now, we are trying to still get them, as a back up we have them with a metal impeller through HT right now. All the others are still the composite impeller. Hold tight guys.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/11517648827/

 

Update on the Graf one now comes with a metal impellar/metal housing and upgraded gasket and housing: "Click HERE to shop MINI Cooper Water Pumps"

Free shipping also. 11517550484 or 11517648827 are the same part numbers.

Pictures to be updated soon.

 

I'm getting ready to change my water pump (07 thermostat house previously replaced). My question is that I have read a number of problems about the tensioner and friction wheel. Should these be changed at the same time or if they look fine let it roll?

 

You can do it while you are down there and knock it out, if its original and lots of miles, it will be one less thing.

 

Kinda what I was thinking. This one has 137k so it won't hurt for sure. I'm guessing the tensioner is held on by 3-4 bolts and should come right out while I have access to the water pump. I have done some searching and have not found anything particular for replacing the tensioner just the problems associated with them.

 

I'll be replacing my water pump this week, it id beginning to drip and lose coolant, I can hear what I assume is the pump chattering as well. for about a month I've had a really brief chatter on cold start, but now I hear it all the time. It increased when the pump started to weep.
The chatter has me wondering about the pully's condition or the friction wheel. but may well just be bearing noise, I haven't really looked very close at them yet, but will need to before I start ordering parts. Any advise or suggestions are appreciated!!
I have a couple of questions, if anyone has any answers.
1st, although I have not checked mine yet, does the pulley usually need to be replaced when the pump is done? I just want to be sure to order everything I may need.

2nd, I have noticed that some of the aftermarket pumps have a longer pully shaft and that seems to cause some issues fitting the pulley back on. does anybody know if this is still true on an R60? I thought I saw it mentioned that there is a bit more room on the big boys.

3rd, how does that POS plastic pipe that runs between the pump and thermostat hold up? I know they get brittle. I replaced mine just under a year ago when I did the thermostat. should I have a spare on hand, or do you guys think it will survive, since it is not very old?

Lastly, I didn't see anyone mention the thermostat. does it need to be loosened up to get the pipe out of the water pump, or can it all be done from the one side?

Thanks anyone who may toss any info my way!

 

I replaced the water pump on my 2009 Mini Cooper S following the first post in this thread from 8 years ago. Everything went as said, reasonably easy and did it in about 2 hours. Not bad

Only thing I didn’t remove as mentioned in first post was the piece of the engine mount w the funny hex bolts attached to the block. I was able to get the pump out past that.

Nice write up for an experienced mechanic, I’m sure the rest of this thread had some updates, but I didn’t need them. Lol