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R56 :: Drivetrain :: DIY Water Pump Replacement

R56 :: Drivetrain :: DIY Water Pump Replacement

  #76  
Old 12-19-2014, 02:23 PM
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You can use the MINI coolant, its blueish - green in color. Sometimes look a hair green in the light. Double check the stuff. Some people like the other stuff. I never had a problem with the factory stuff and you just mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

The most helpful thing is the DIY here with the coolant.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html


Thanks and good luck.
 
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  #77  
Old 12-20-2014, 12:31 PM
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Did my water pump yesterday. Everything when fairly well thanks to this post. Took about 4hrs. Forgot to order a belt when I ordered the pump. Picked up a belt at AutoZone. Almost cut the old one off. Good thing I didn't because it was wrong. Now I get to tear it apart again when I get the correct belt.
 
  #78  
Old 12-22-2014, 05:38 AM
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Glad you got it fixed.

The belt number will be on the old original belt you took off, on the outside if its still legible. . For example 6K-905 . Then match that size up with a new one.

 
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  #79  
Old 12-22-2014, 06:22 AM
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Thanks. I just got off the phone with you guys. I think we got the right one coming. If not I will look at the old one once I take it back off. Your guy said as long as the AC pump hasn't been changed it will be correct.
 
  #80  
Old 12-22-2014, 06:24 AM
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Welcome.
 
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  #81  
Old 01-05-2015, 03:57 PM
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Just wanted to share photos of the water pump friction wheel release tab. After you pull it out all the way (3 or 4 inches) there is a slot in the end of it that can be hooked on a small notch to hold it out to keep the pressure off.
 
Attached Thumbnails R56 :: Drivetrain :: DIY Water Pump Replacement-image.jpg  

Last edited by Convincor; 01-05-2015 at 04:08 PM.
  #82  
Old 01-06-2015, 07:17 AM
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Thanks for the notation on the lock hook.
 
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  #83  
Old 01-26-2015, 04:28 PM
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So, what happens if you pull this out too far? Or is it even possible to be pulled out too far? https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ment-photo.jpg
 
  #84  
Old 01-26-2015, 04:35 PM
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See the photo above. Just pull it out until it stops, you then should see the small slot in it. Just hook it over the lock hook.
 
  #85  
Old 01-26-2015, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Convincor View Post
See the photo above. Just pull it out until it stops, you then should see the small slot in it. Just hook it over the lock hook.
Thanks for the quick reply. Does it go back in on it's own when finished?
 
  #86  
Old 01-26-2015, 05:00 PM
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You might have to help it a little
 
  #87  
Old 09-01-2015, 04:52 AM
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Ok! My Turn..Thanks for all the input on the DIY.
I have changed my water pump and T-belt on an Audi TT twice and its a Royal PITA..So here I go again.
Headlight and motor mount extract same as TT but the pin pull friction release a little different but I'm sure I will figure it out.
Case of beer and a Cubano Cigar on deck afterwards and the Fat Lady will sing...
I swore I would not do this again..but never say never...
Tonight is water pump night...I will be asking questions if I get stumped.
09' Cooper S R56
again thanks to all the write ups on this well appreciated.
 
  #88  
Old 09-01-2015, 10:11 AM
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Another quick question...Can I possibly do the job without taking the Passenger side wheel off?
Can I not raise the engine high enough to get to the pump inside the engine bay?
I see everyone is taking the wheel off I think unless that was another DIY thread?
I will try to do it without taking the wheel off...My TT I did not need to...but
this is a bird of a different feather...
 
  #89  
Old 09-01-2015, 12:04 PM
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You could turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to gain room , but its gets in the way at some point, and much easier with the wheel off. Good luck.
 
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  #90  
Old 09-02-2015, 03:58 AM
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Ok! water Pump in and new Belt. Was not as bad as the TT but still time consuming.
I did not take the Pass wheel off was not needed. I loosened up the Drivers side engine mount and that gave me enough clearance to handle the water pump.
Now the top oil line feed to the Turbo leaking like a *****. One thing after another.
I'm not sure where the bottom part to this line leads too. Way to tired after a days work 9-10 hrs then under this Ultimate Driving Machine POS Mini!! Yeah! Right!!
 
  #91  
Old 09-11-2015, 07:54 AM
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Just to add...Taking the Pass side wheel off when doing water pump Bad Idea...
I finally got the job done ...The actual leak was the Water supply Line going into the water Pump Housing under the intake mani behind the engine block. It was cracked around the inside rim and the rubber gasket was not holding...But hey! New belt New water pump new thermo housing new oil cooler line **** I'm good for another 78,000 miles...Yeah! Right..lol
 
  #92  
Old 10-28-2015, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mickdayank View Post
I can't beleive this...I am going to have to replace this again! Leaking just like before when I had to change it a year or two ago!
What brand Thermostat did you use for the replacement? I'm wondering which one to avoid.
 
  #93  
Old 10-29-2015, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperSport1966 View Post
What brand Thermostat did you use for the replacement? I'm wondering which one to avoid.
Did you mean water pump? I think he was talking about the water pump? The genuine or OEM supplier pump is a good choice. Can view the options HERE.
 
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  #94  
Old 10-29-2015, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com View Post
Did you mean water pump? I think he was talking about the water pump? The genuine or OEM supplier pump is a good choice. Can view the options HERE.
Yes, sorry about that. I was typing on very little sleep...

Thank you for the link. Doing it today.
 
  #95  
Old 10-30-2015, 04:56 AM
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SuperSport1966

You want to make sure if you do get a new one , get it with the metal housing, FEBI even has a metal impeller if you prefer. I have done these myself so I can help you more, if you need it.

This link has everything on the cooling systems and DIYs. 11518604888

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html


 
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  #96  
Old 10-30-2015, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperSport1966 View Post
Yes, sorry about that. I was typing on very little sleep...

Thank you for the link. Doing it today.
You're very welcome and we do have another DIY here if you want another resource. Good luck and if you need anything or have any questions please do not hesitate to ask me.
 
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  #97  
Old 01-08-2016, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Boosted_Mini View Post
They did NOT say this but i could see it this way:

Your big fmic was blocking the radiator from cooling properly. (we all know that isnt true).

They said my warranty was void as soon as they saw the fmic, i could only see what they would say about being catless..
This is illegal in the US under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
 
  #98  
Old 07-16-2016, 06:26 PM
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So which makes more sense? This DIY to RAISE the engine a few inches, or the Pelican version to Remove the inner liner and Friction wheel and LOWER the engine slightly to access the pump. I have a lift, so wheel removal and liner removal is no big deal. or I can raise the car, block the engine, and lower the car via the lift, which raises the engine squarely. Still don't see any reason to put the front end in Service Mode though. I did it for the turbo oil line change, and that made sense, but I can't see it here at all.

I have no leaks, and replaced the Tstat a few months ago, but its a 2009 MCCS with 50k miles and the original pump and water tube. I I figure it's only a matter of time, so maybe a preemptive strike is in order. So' I'd rather have the parts here for when I need them, and do it at my convenience or if a leak starts, rather then rush.

Just curious, but can you see the condition of the pump pulley rubber surface from underneath if the car is up on a lift? Wish I had the foresight to look when I had it up for all the oil line and gasket changes.

I also need to do a walnut blast, so if I am taking off the intake manifold anyway for that, then I may as well replace the water tube then, and the water pump , etc, etc.
 
  #99  
Old 09-17-2016, 02:29 PM
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I was able to change my pump because of this thread. However, after a couple of days, coolant started leaking there again. Did any of you use some sort of sealant or just the gasket? Certain way of tightening the bolt? I really hate to drain the new coolant Ij just put in there but looks like i have to just to make sure the gasket is seated properly...
 
  #100  
Old 09-19-2016, 03:40 AM
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When I changed my WP I had the same issue and it was the water feed line to the Pump...I am told this is common..it breaks just inside the pump...I had to do over as you drain fluid and keep it's new fluid no problem...I also changed my thermo check all the hoses in and out..which side is it leaking? pump side thermo side rear?..good luck..
 

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