Sorry, no idea. All I can suggest is pull out old one, if new one isn't longer, then it won't help.

 

Yes, that is the correct part. MINI stopped making the 551 version. All tensioner replacements get the same part now, whether the rest of the gear is changed or not. At least, that is my understanding.

 

Alright.

If I have too much trouble getting it threaded because it is too long, I may abandon the install.

From what I am reading, too much tension will wear out the chain guides.

 

I did the install today and was not impressed with the results.

Here is a before/after video I made.

 

I didn't hear any rattle in the before portion of the video, so no surprise there is no difference.

 

Interesting that my engine does not have the rattle. You would think with this much mileage, it would.

I just got the car 10 days ago so I am not that familiar with the Mini engine just yet. If this is a normal sounding mini, should the tensioner be replaced with the longer version as a preventative measure or should I wait to hear the rattle before I install it?

 

So just to clarify, that before portion of the video is normal?? and yet its so loud.

 

Thanks for telling us how you did it. REALLY appreciate this follow up post with zero information

 

if I'm getting multiple misfires in all cylinders is it to late to just replace the tensioner or will I need to replace the whole timing chain kit?

and is there a guide anywhere that explains how to replace the timing chain?

 

I want to thank Eric for starting this great thread and everyone who has participated and improved the information provided.

I purchased my Mini new as you can see below, and had the original chain tensioner replaced at 10,663 miles with the 11-31-7-597-895 tensioner. The tech measured the chain at that time @ 63 mm.

I am now at 58.5k miles and the timing chain noise is back. I ordered the updated tensioner ending in 482 from ecstuning for less than $30 including shipping and hope to replace it next weekend. I was able to find the 551 tensioner but decided on the updated tensioner, I hope this is the best decision.

For those of you who purchased your Mini used and wonder about previous maintenance and how it will impact this problem, this is the oil change interval I have followed. I changed the oil the first time @ 1,800 miles along with a new filter using Mobil 1 0-40 European blend and every 6k miles thereafter. I realize this is a very small sample size, but even with good maintenance, I am still experiencing the problem.

My Mini continues to run great and hope with this repair, will continue to give me many more fun miles.

After the tensioner replacement, I will post my results. Everyone, thanks again!

 

I replaced my chain tensioner yesterday and things are definitely quieter. The job was easier than I expected, I expected more trouble getting the hoses off and back on.

My chain tensioner was defective as when the plunger is pressed in, there is three different clicks and changes in pressure on the plunger. The new tensioner's plunger has smooth resistance all the way in until it is completely depressed.

 

How'd you finally get that last piece out of the way to get to your timing chain tensioner?

 

dingersdad, I'm guessing you're referring to the "Y" piece that is directly behind the chain tensioner. I copied pictures from Eric's original post which has pictures that show the "Y" piece still in place. The "Y" piece is the large hose opening in the first picture and is shown directly behind the hole where the chain tensioner belongs in the second picture. I'm not sure how Eric got the chain tensioner in and out with the "Y" piece still in place. Maybe that's why he said he had difficulty getting the new chain tensioner installed.

There are two hose clamps, one large clamp straight down and a smaller clamp off to the side. I removed the two clamps and pulled the "Y" piece off. The clamps are in a tight spot, but once the "Y" piece is out of the way, accessing the chain tensioner is relatively easy. The smaller clamp is difficult to get to, and some earlier posts mention difficulty getting the "Y" piece off as the hoses are stuck on. I think someone mentioned using WD-40 to get the hoses back on and I did that also.

I hope this helps. Greg

 

Thanks Greg! I was referring to the throttle body, of which I finally found the third bolt holding it on and once I removed it, of course, the throttle body came off so I could get the tensioner out. Its all back together now and running more quiet. I'm going to change the oil, just in case, then she'll be back in service. This whole deal is disappointing and I really think BMW/Mini needs to step up and take charge of fixing this problem.

 

Hey Yall, thanks for the great info, I'm trying to find the chain tensioner with the part #s given in this thread but having a bit of an issue. I have a 2009 JCW clubman, will this tensioner work for my car... Thanks so much in advance W0133-1856468

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...?apwcid=nextag

so frustrating when #s are different

 

Forgive my noobness but, did MINI ever change/update this issue in the N18 motors, 2011+? I have an '11 MCS

 

Guys,

I have a 2003 Mini S. Would this longer tensioner 11317607551 be a fix for my older MINI or what are my options. I'd really like to fix this issue my self. Please help!

 

If you have a 2003 MCS you are on the wrong forum. This is a 2nd Gen forum/issue and you have a 1st Gen car if it is a 2003.....sorry can't help, check the 1st Gen forum.

 

Thanks Kukaepe, I'll look for info there!

 

I have my heart set on buying a 2007 Mini Cooper S with 46,0000 miles on it from Carmax Irvine which is a very reputable recertified used car seller, the 2009 Mini Cooper S I wanted was sold only a few minutes before I arrived at the location!

When I first fired up (cold start) the 2009 model was smooth as butter throughout the entire RPM range, but it had what sounded like diesel engine only at idle, is this considered normal?

I thought it could be the electronic solenoid in the injector. I'm currently waiting for my 2007 Mini Cooper S with 46,0000 miles and before sealing the deal with Carmax, I have a stethoscope specifically for auto usage, what types of noises should I be listening for?

Carmax has a 5-Day Money-Back Guarantee before ANY paper work is signed, so I will have 5 days to test her out! This is the time that I have to find out if anything is not right, so I want to use those days to be sure everything is in order! I need your help to make the most out of the time I have to test the Mini out.

Much appreciated!

Regards,
Systemlord

 

Systemlord: All of the direct injected turbo engines (2007+ MCS and JCW's) will sound a bit like a diesel at idle. This is due to the common rail high pressure fuel injection system and is normal. The timing chain/tensioner problem generally presents itself during colder weather, 40 degrees or colder at night, and when the car has been sitting for 8 hours or more. The noise is quite loud and lasts generally for less than a couple of minutes. When the oil pressure builds up and the tensioner takes the slack out of the timing chain the noise stops. Not a good idea to rev the engine when it is cold (anytime) and you hear this noise. You should try to check out the car during the conditions mentioned above and/or look into the CarMax extended warranty....this can be an expensive repair, especially if the tensioner and/or chain fails completely. Hope this helps....good luck with your purchase. Bought my '07 MCS new and it has been the best/most fun car I have ever owned.

 

Hey there kukaepe, so since I live in a warm climate (Southern California, Orange County) you saying I might not even ever hear the timing chain rattle? I'm starting to wonder if the problem is because in cold weather the oil takes longer to circulate through the engine causing the tensioner to wear out sooner, a 0W-30 Synthetic Oil like Mobil 1 0W-30 would provide faster circulation getting the oil to the tensioner.

I have heard a few member's using a 0W-30 oil which made rattling go away, perhaps the tensioners are seized up because of the cold weather therefore not giving proper tension. It seems like the timing chain is not the problem, it's the tensioners that are failing do to lack of oil/oil pressure, am I understanding this correctly?

Systemlord

 

Systemlord: Be mindful about choosing oil for the turbocharged MINI. Requirements include BMW LL01 and ACEA A3/B3. IMHO it would be wise to use only oils on this list or purchase oil from MINI for the turbo cars. I use Mobil 1 0W40 as it is a quality product and is the most readily available oil from MINI USA's list of approved oils (provided on the MINI Owner's Lounge) see below:

"The oils listed below meet MINI's Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in MINIs in the US market with gasoline engines.

Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30"

I believe it gets cold enough in So. Cal. to cause the timing chain "death rattle" problem, it does here in Las Vegas, NV. Some of the folks in the Sin City MINI Club, including me, have been able to solve the problem by replacing the tensioner, while others have had to replace the chain, guide rails etc. to resolve the problem. A cooperative MINI dealer may be willing to check the VIN of the car you are interested in and let you know if there has been a warranty upgrade of the tensioner or chain replacement. Otherwise, best way to ensure you don't get burned by this issue is to purchase the extended warranty coverage or you can do as we are known for here is Vegas....roll the dice!

 

Systemlord,

Ambient temp has nothing to do with the rattling from a chain tensioner failing to work properly. If the MINI has the rattle, it will do it no matter what the temp is.

 

I will be purchasing an extended warranty and I will find out the service history and if the recalls (water pump) have been taken care of, I hear that Mini Coopers are known for excessive carbon deposits on the intake valves. Is there anything else I should keep my eye on regarding known recalls or issues other than the ones already mentioned?