The only problem I am thinking off with the newer chain tensioner is that when the car does actually get warm, it may overstress the timing chain.

But I may be wrong, because if the spring rates in both the tensioners are the same then the force exerted should be the same (as long as they can expand and retract freelly). But do they only work with a spring?

 

I'm 100% certain my revised tensioner had a stronger spring rate than the old stock unit. I don't know if my old stock unit was worn out, though.

 

The plunger in the tensioner is actually longer and uses the same spring. However, when compressed with the longer plunger the spring has more load to take up the slack of the chain stretch. Which in effect loads the chain back to the original specs before the timing chain stretch occurred. That's why it is important to only replace the tensioner when it is nessary. Otherwise you will induce problems.

 

Ok... I've decided to do it myself as well... My problem is where to get the part from!?!
I am located in Europe and parts.com will not ship outside the USA. Is there a shop that sells and ships intenationally?? (At reasonble prices :p)

 

Just changed out mine. The Clubbie is quiet now at cold start. And it seems to run better but that might just be me feeling better about the cold start up. Very easy to do, for me the hoses were the hard part, it was like they were glued on and hard to break free. Very tight space for large hands.
I have a spare tensioner if someone needs/wants one. I over ordered by accident.

 

@GerryW, check your PM.

Did you guys also change the O-Ring seal (11317507432) or was it not necessary?

 

Mine came with what looked like a "lock washer" that was somewhat "compressable". I didn't change the O-Ring seal.

 

Likewise....

 

Alex,

Check your PM's please.

 

Thanks to GerryW, you can now add me to the list of owners who have swapped the original caine tensioner to the new longer version. It isn't overly complicated to do so, but you need to be careful with the hoses. The tensioner itself simply bolts-in, nothing difficult.

Although it's summer time over here and didn't get the prolonged rattle that often, I have noticed that the 2-3 sec rattle that was audible when starting the engine is now gone. So I really believe this thing is the proper cure for the rattling issues!

 

Update:

I have read the official SI M11 02 07 on the issue and I now know where the problem lies: it isn't the tensioner itself, but the timing chain. It appears that a bunch of timing chains were built in the cars out of spec (i.e. longer). For the cars where the timing chain is not particulalry larger than it should, MINI installs the P/N 11317607551 chain tensioner as a remedy.

For cars where the tensioner is completely out of spec, the chain, chain tensioner and guides must be changed. In this case however, the chain tensioner remains P/N 11317597895.

So, if changing the tensioner does not cure the rattle for some, then a new chain + the rest is needed.

 

Bump

 

Hello all, I am going through this same cam chain issue and I am going to put the longer adjuster in to hopefully fix the rattle, a band-aid fix for the too long of chain Mini put in in the first place I am told. My problem is that the chain has jumped time, one maybe two teeth. (big loss of power, and at idle it has a rumpy rump like I put a big cam in it). Luckily I do not think there has been any valve to piston contact. *So where do I set the crank at* (which cyl, stroke, or pully mark) so I can check the cam gear marks before I put the new adj. in. This form has saved my butt before, please help me get out of the pits, One 08 R56 down, Help!

 

There should definitely be some marking on the gears telling you how they should sit. A Bentley Manual would help you a lot on this.

 

You'll be looking a long time for any timing marks relative to correct timing, there are none!

And if as you say you've suffered from timing misalignment, then you most certainly will have had the gentle kissing of piston/valve contact, and will look something like this.





The engines timing is set at 90º BTDC there is a location hole in the back of the flywheel (manual) flex plate (auto) and this is located through the engines Aluminum crankshaft cradle bed plate, to the right of the exhaust pipe when viewed from the front of the vehicle, this will then put the crankshaft at 90º BTDC and the camshafts will then need to be checked and aligned using their specific locating tool, and they can be misaligned by 180º so be very very careful to get them the right way up, you will be able to tell they are the right way up, as between cylinder lobes 2 and 3 on each camshaft, you will see manufacturers identifying print marking, quite clearly.

 

Would it be preventative to install the new tensioner on a 2011 to avoid this chain stretch issue?

 

NO! BMW explicitely forbids installing the "band-aid" longer tensioner with newer timing chains (like the one fitted on 2011 N18 engines). This is also true for engines that need to have the timing chain itself changed: the standard size tensioner must be used if a new chain is used.

The reason is that the longer tensioner will exert more stresses (tension) in the normal chains, which makes them more prone to elongation and cracking. You could in effect INDUCE the problem by fitting the longer tensioner on a fine running engine.

 

It was a problem with some 2010 and earlier cars, I haven't heard that it has been a problem with 2011 models.

Dave

 

Maybe this is relevant maybe not.

When I drive the car very hard I notice that the dipstick rises about 2-3 cm from its normal closed position.
Could that be a problem with the timing gear? Or is it maybe a vibration issue? Czar? Anybody?

 

Ok so.... I have a 09 MCS with just over 60K miles and no dealer within 300 miles. So far my car is running fine but I do hear a startup noise that I would describe as a flutter, it goes away after a few minutes of warm up. My question is, without a dealer nearby and no way to get the timing chain slack measurement on my own, will this longer tensioner hurt? I suppose I have the issue described here but I'm not sure. Thanks!

 

If your dipstick is being forced out of the tube, there are only two reasons for this, you've either got a very warn seal on the dipstick itself, but i suspect your suffering from excessive blow by, loss of compressional efficient piston ring sealing, on 1 or more cylinders, there are more possible reasons, but I very much doubt you'll be suffering from either, you could have a blocked PCV or maybe the start of the failing of the monolith catalyst structure, this later issue, will put extra pressure back into the cylinder, and create higher than normal pressure loadings, and will find it's way into the lower crankcase, hence extra crankcase pressure pushing the oil dipstick out, to relieve the excess build up of pressure.

If you are suffering from the stretch of the timing chain, and the stock length chain tensioner, can no longer apply enough pressure, due to insufficient piston rod length, to take up slack, and your original timing chain has stretched, then simply fitting a longer chain tensioner, is adding to the problem!

So you add your longer chain tensioner, to the already stretched chain, if you can't measure the amount of stretch and don't have the chain stretch tolerance guide, then your asking for trouble, as the extra pressure from the extra working length, of the new chain tensioner, could potentially stretch your stock stretched chain, to beyond it's maximum stretch capability, and this will eventually end in tears and lots of $$$ all for the sake of a 600 mile round trip!

 

Thanks for the info czar.

 

Thank you once again Roger for your valuable feedback.

The dipstick seal is not worn at all.
I suspect it has something to do with the loss of compressional efficiency from piston ring sealing.
Catalyst is out of the question cause it's new (Akrapovic 100cel).
How do you check whether the PCV is blocked?
May I also add that there is oil exiting the head cover even if I have replaced the head cover gaskets twice.
I also have a new head cover in my hands. If the PCV is blocked will the change of the head cover help?
Thank you in advance...

 

Akrapovic, very nice, if you've got oil being pushed out of the cam cover seal, then you really do have some very high crankcase pressure build up, the PC valves themselves are visible, when you look into the outlet tube sections in the cam cover, and when you turn it upside down, they should fall open, and you will hear this, inside the cam cover you will also find a Orange rubber plug, you can gently remove this, and check for excessive sludge build up in this chamber, a good thorough chemical clean wont go a miss either, I do mine twice a year, when I change the oil and spark plugs!

If you are uncertain regarding your original cam cover PVC's, the fitment of the new cam cover, really isn't going to get you any further forward, with your current predicament.

 

Cheers.
I will check my cover to find any fault on the PCVs, if any, and judge if the new one is necessary.
But I think I will need that overhaul sooner than expected.
Ironically, I just remembered that the oil around the head cover was first seen just after my JCW kit was fitted. So the car was bone stock till then and apart from the death cold rattle nothing else was wrong with the car till then.
So this excessive blow by from the crankcase was induced at the time when my car was still under warranty!
And I was 100% sure it was first induced by the boost cuts I was experiencing from the moment I had my tune...
I could have asked for a new engine from the dealer...

Now I am really mad.