How To Drivetrain :: Change Your Own Chain Tensioner
#151
Update on the part:
ESC Tuning lists three options.
1. Mfg Part# 11314609483 by Genuine BMW. 78mm for $37.61
2. Mfg Part # 11317597895 by Febj (sp?). 78mm for $56.99
3. Mfg Part # 11314609482 by Genuine Mini. 82mm for $16.84
Interestingly, option 3 was the part # that Mini told Deafgoose was the replacement part for part# 11-31-7-607-551.
The specs at ecstuning.com show that part to be 4mm longer, and it's the cheapest option.
At Parts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $32.04.
At Penskeparts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $46.43.
Just thought I'd share what I found.
ESC Tuning lists three options.
1. Mfg Part# 11314609483 by Genuine BMW. 78mm for $37.61
2. Mfg Part # 11317597895 by Febj (sp?). 78mm for $56.99
3. Mfg Part # 11314609482 by Genuine Mini. 82mm for $16.84
Interestingly, option 3 was the part # that Mini told Deafgoose was the replacement part for part# 11-31-7-607-551.
The specs at ecstuning.com show that part to be 4mm longer, and it's the cheapest option.
At Parts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $32.04.
At Penskeparts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $46.43.
Just thought I'd share what I found.
Last edited by crawfordman; 03-20-2013 at 12:43 PM. Reason: Typo
#152
This thread has been very helpful, I thank you all for your input.
My concern is this: Last year when I purchased my Mini (used) I took it into a different dealer than the one I purchased from. I brought in my Mini for service and had a bunch of warranty stuff done as my car was about to fall out of warranty shortly thereafter.
One of my concerns was the timing chain tensioner issue. The dealer stated that my car already had the updated part(s) installed and it was not necessary.
Fast forward one year and I am at my dealer last weekend buying a water pump and thermostat housing and I stop by service to ask them for a vehicle history report so I can understand what recalls/repairs have been done while in warranty. Funny thing is there is no mention of the timing chain assembly being replaced/repaired/updated.
The dealer suggests that the repairs could have been performed at some other facility and may have been paid for out of pocket by the original owner. I asked the dealer why would anyone pay for something out of pocket if the car was in warranty. The dealer stated that some people do that. The dealer went on later in our conversation to tell me that my VIN number did not fall into the affected N14's. I thought ALL VIN's were affected?
So who do I believe? The tech who did a visual? Or the vehicle history report?
So in short, can I just do a visual and see if this tensioner was replaced based on the colour of the tensioner (black vs. silver?).
My concern is this: Last year when I purchased my Mini (used) I took it into a different dealer than the one I purchased from. I brought in my Mini for service and had a bunch of warranty stuff done as my car was about to fall out of warranty shortly thereafter.
One of my concerns was the timing chain tensioner issue. The dealer stated that my car already had the updated part(s) installed and it was not necessary.
Fast forward one year and I am at my dealer last weekend buying a water pump and thermostat housing and I stop by service to ask them for a vehicle history report so I can understand what recalls/repairs have been done while in warranty. Funny thing is there is no mention of the timing chain assembly being replaced/repaired/updated.
The dealer suggests that the repairs could have been performed at some other facility and may have been paid for out of pocket by the original owner. I asked the dealer why would anyone pay for something out of pocket if the car was in warranty. The dealer stated that some people do that. The dealer went on later in our conversation to tell me that my VIN number did not fall into the affected N14's. I thought ALL VIN's were affected?
So who do I believe? The tech who did a visual? Or the vehicle history report?
So in short, can I just do a visual and see if this tensioner was replaced based on the colour of the tensioner (black vs. silver?).
#153
So in short, can I just do a visual and see if this tensioner was replaced based on the colour of the tensioner (black vs. silver?).
#154
Update on the part:
ESC Tuning lists three options.
1. Mfg Part# 11314609483 by Genuine BMW. 78mm for $37.61
2. Mfg Part # 11317597895 by Febj (sp?). 78mm for $56.99
3. Mfg Part # 11314609482 by Genuine Mini. 82mm for $16.84
Interestingly, option 3 was the part # that Mini told Deafgoose was the replacement part for part# 11-31-7-607-551.
The specs at ecstuning.com show that part to be 4mm longer, and it's the cheapest option.
At Parts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $32.04.
At Penskeparts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $46.43.
Just thought I'd share what I found.
ESC Tuning lists three options.
1. Mfg Part# 11314609483 by Genuine BMW. 78mm for $37.61
2. Mfg Part # 11317597895 by Febj (sp?). 78mm for $56.99
3. Mfg Part # 11314609482 by Genuine Mini. 82mm for $16.84
Interestingly, option 3 was the part # that Mini told Deafgoose was the replacement part for part# 11-31-7-607-551.
The specs at ecstuning.com show that part to be 4mm longer, and it's the cheapest option.
At Parts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $32.04.
At Penskeparts.com you can get part #11314609483 for $46.43.
Just thought I'd share what I found.
How would a person know which is the correct length to purchase?
#155
Probably not. I replaced the original tensioner in my '07 with the new '482' part and both had silver hex heads. The only way to really confirm is to pull your existing tensioner and check the part number stamping. At that point, you might as well have a new one on hand to install as a replacement.
#156
what lead you to buy the 482
The spring in my original tensioner was really weak compared to the 482;the plunger went in really easily but then became very stiff in the last few MM of travel.
I had a chain rattle only very sporadically, perhaps only once every other month at the very most and replaced the tensioner as a (hopefully) preventive measure. I need to replace my valve cover this weekend and will use the opportunity to assess the guide rails.
Last edited by metro62; 03-21-2013 at 07:14 PM.
#157
#158
What do u mean by crackle drew? My chain, guides, and whole deal were replaced over a year ago when it sounded like a tractor at startup. Now it sounds like i have the n18 wastegate rattle at start up and light to moderate throttle with windows down. Is that the crackle sound u refer to. I always say it sounds like a piece of plastic in moving bike spokes.
#160
#161
#162
#163
Yes that is correct... 551 is now 482 as you were told. Both are 82mm in length, but I do not know if there are differences. Probably only a different manufacturer:551 was made by Febi-Bilstein and 482 by JWIS who also make the chain and the chain guides.
#167
Stressed out!
What's up people, I was just wondering, I have a 2011 Countryman All4 S, I'm getting the rattle, and as a preventative measure, I want to change the tensioner. Mind you it's the new one from ECS which is at 82 length. When changing this part will I need any specific tools, rather than the general swap out and in new one method....? Because a fellow mechanic was telling me a special tool is needed to mount underneath to lock in the timing before swapping out the tensioner? I'm running in circles on fixing this because winter is coming and I don't wanna experience any serious problems. Please any clarification would be helpful!
Last edited by Pauly Jay; 11-06-2015 at 09:19 AM.
#168
On the N18 engine we don't see too many timing chain tensioner issues. Are you sure its the timing chain and not sometime else.
To do it right you will have to lock the cam / crank to do the swap so you dont risk moving the timing.
To do it right you will have to lock the cam / crank to do the swap so you dont risk moving the timing.
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#169
Well, when I had the transfer case replaced the dealer said the noise is "normal"....but everyone that I know that is mechanically inclined makes the suggestion of a timing chain issue specifically either a slack chain, which can only mean the tensioner right? I'm hoping it's not the guides and the chain itself...and thanks so I guess the kit is needed to change the tensioner.....
#170
Some people like in the first post pop it out and replace ( like the first post in this thread), but its not the low risk way. But it can be done.
I would check the guide and the stretch on the chain , check under our tool section of timing for all the tools. I take it your out of warranty , otherwise I would press the MINI dealership to measure slack in the chain. On the N18 engine you have the problem is not so wide spread.
I would check the guide and the stretch on the chain , check under our tool section of timing for all the tools. I take it your out of warranty , otherwise I would press the MINI dealership to measure slack in the chain. On the N18 engine you have the problem is not so wide spread.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#172
From the TIS: N14 Engine
8. Install the locating pin (Special Tool 11 9 590) to lock the position of the engine. 9. Remove the chain tensioner and collect the residual oil with a shop towel.
10. Fit the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) ( 83300493971 ) without the seal ring and with the lock nut loose. Pretension the chain tensioner with Special Tool 00
9 250 to 0.6 Nm. Finger-tighten the lock nut on Special Tool 11 9 340. ( 83300493971 )
11. Remove the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) from the engine, with the lock nut still tight. Measure the distance (A), as described in the
illustration.
12. If distance (A) is less than 68mm (and the noise can be reproduced only between 1,600-1,800 rpm), then only replace the chain tensioner with P/N 11314609482 (refer to parts list A), as per Repair Instruction REP 11 31 090 (Installing and removing/replacing chain tensioner piston N14). 13. If distance (A) is 68mm or greater (and the noise is reproducible both at 1,600-1,800 rpm range as well as at idle speed when cold), replace the
following components in the list below (refer to parts list B). If you are uncertain regarding repair attempts already made, each chain tensioner part
number is stamped on the outer sleeve. It must be removed from the engine in order to read the part number.
List B : N14 Engine
11314609483KT
8. Install the locating pin (Special Tool 11 9 590) to lock the position of the engine. 9. Remove the chain tensioner and collect the residual oil with a shop towel.
10. Fit the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) ( 83300493971 ) without the seal ring and with the lock nut loose. Pretension the chain tensioner with Special Tool 00
9 250 to 0.6 Nm. Finger-tighten the lock nut on Special Tool 11 9 340. ( 83300493971 )
11. Remove the chain tensioner (Special Tool 11 9 340) from the engine, with the lock nut still tight. Measure the distance (A), as described in the
illustration.
12. If distance (A) is less than 68mm (and the noise can be reproduced only between 1,600-1,800 rpm), then only replace the chain tensioner with P/N 11314609482 (refer to parts list A), as per Repair Instruction REP 11 31 090 (Installing and removing/replacing chain tensioner piston N14). 13. If distance (A) is 68mm or greater (and the noise is reproducible both at 1,600-1,800 rpm range as well as at idle speed when cold), replace the
following components in the list below (refer to parts list B). If you are uncertain regarding repair attempts already made, each chain tensioner part
number is stamped on the outer sleeve. It must be removed from the engine in order to read the part number.
List B : N14 Engine
11314609483KT
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; 11-06-2015 at 01:08 PM.