Hello,

I'm trying to remove my 3-piece dash so I can properly glue on my CF covers. Didn't see instructions on here and am hoping some1 can post.

Thx!

 

ok yea i was jus lookin for anyway more advice bc a buddy told me to be ready for a weekend without my car bc it takes forever? but 4 hrs sounds good to me and i kno exactly where my instructions are. thx

 

you need to remove the upper dash. (open the doors. there are plastic panels the tyou will gently pry off on the ends of your dash. once that is done, take out the screws. at this point the entire top dash piece comes out)
then open your glove box, and pop your driver knee bolster down. get on the floorboards and look up. youl see some more screws holding the dash pieces on. unscrew those. the airbag setup is pretty self explanatory on how to remove the safety strap. and the rubber grommet behind the tack just comes off with some patience and tlc (its a pain to put back on btw)

overall its a pretty easy job though...

 

How to change the front rotors on an R53 and any special tools needed. Thanks!

 

how to .....cd player install...and passenger side motor mount replace...(not hydraulic motor mount)

 

how do i get the rear seats out? i know the bottom seat pulls right out. but the 2 that fold down are being difficult

 

I did my stat change this past weekend, here's the procedure - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...at-change.html

 

there's a bolt right in the middle of the two seats on the bottom (if you look from behind) unscrew that and then push it like a lever. then angle it to a 45degree and it wud come off

 

I would like to see a post on how to replace the Power Steering Lines.

If possible, without removing the pump first . . . . . . . . . .

 

replace the intake maniforld rear cover for 2006 MCS ??

 

any DIY on painting headlight rings body color?

 

A DIY on the replacement of the inside blower motor for heat and A/C

 

Need to find DIY on how to replace transmission fluid on a CVT. Thanks!

 

How about replacing the A/C's cabin charcoal filter?Maybe it is easy, but I have no idea where it even is.

 

Here ya go on the cabin filter replacement how to
http://www.geekshocker.com/Claire/maint/cabinFilter.php

 

I am wondering how difficult it is to do this.


(photo courtesy of k_huevo)

It looks like any engine work would be SIGNIFICANTLY easier with the front-end removed.

My guess on the process would be....
1. bumper removal
2. drain coolant system
3. disconnect electricals
4. disconnect AC condensor
5. Unbolt front end

I'm hoping it's that simple. I really really am. Also I'm hoping it's not too much of a hassle to do any of those things.

 

Get under car and take underside engine cover off
take bumper cover off - careful on elec connections and air temp sensor in bottom grille.
take alum. bumper off
radiator and AC condenser should "swing" out some so you don't have to completely take them off - shouldn't need to drain coolant.

Slightly involved but easy. I probably forgot a few bolts, but nothing major. And then it's easy to get wheel wells out to really open it up.

 

rear seat delete cover!

 

Is this what I've heard referred to as engine "service mode"?

 

Oil pan gasket change (R53)

engine cooling fan change (R53)

 

tools needed
r53 belt tool or equivalent
16mm socket
pry bar
13mm socket w/ various extensions
10mm socket
15mm socket
brake cleaner and some rags

This is long winded but should take you about 1 or 2 hours depending on speed.

oil pan gasket-
jack up the car- support with jack stands of course
drain the oil.
remove serpentine belt
remove lower engine mount ("dog bone style")
using a ratchet strap hooked to the exhaust cross member (the one with 6 10mm bolts) pull the motor back as far as you can get it.
remove 3 13mm AC compressor bolts and let it hang down, the lines will hold it just fine.
start removing the oil pan bolts- there are 2 15mm bolts that go into the trans also.
after all of the bolts have been removed the pan will fall, so leave one or 2 loose (as long as its not RTV'd onto the bed plate)
remove old gasket and clean mating surfaces thoroughly
install new gasket- it has 2 tabs on the gasket that go onto the bed plate
reinstall oil pan and tighten bolts
reinstall ac compressor- tighten the long bolt last or it will never line up
remove ratchet strap
reinstall lower mount
reinstall belt
reinstall motor mount
Put oil back in the engine
release belt tensioner
motor on

Fan-
what you need
t30 torx
8mm socket
10mm socket
13mm socket
Philips screwdriver
panel popper or some kind of pry tool
hose clamp pliers or regular pliers
small Flathead screwdriver or straight pick
3 zip ties

you can do this with or without jacking up the car, its dependent on you
remove 8mm bolts that are vertical, not horizontal in the bumper corners
remove the t30 bolts on the front of the bumper
remove the 3 10mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper
remove the Phillips screws on the outer edges of the bumper, make sure you get the ones that hold the fender liner to the bumper and not the chin spoiler to the bumper.
Pull the bumper forward, unplug the turn signal, running light, side marker light and temp sensor, route the wiring through the bumper so its not in the way.
Unbolt the 10 13mm bolts for the bumper support, should be 8 nuts and 2 bolts. remove bumper with a stiff tug
Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator
Remove the small intake horn from the core support and air box (for ease of access)
unplug the fan connector on the left front frame horn
using a small screwdriver release the retaining pin on the connector to free it from the bracket.
there are 3 zip ties holding the fan harness to the core support, cut those zip ties with a pair of cutters
remove the radiator mounting pins (2 plastic pins on the upper corners of the bumper)
with the pins removed, the radiator is now disconnected from the core support and can tilt forward.
The radiator is held in with small brackets, you can lift the brackets up with your finger and slide the fan out.

To reinstall- reverse the steps. make sure the fan wiring routing is correct and you're all good.

 

I think so, or at least close. I think "service mode" is technically when you put long bolts (preferably smooth) back into two of the screw holes (one on each side near the top) and slide the radiator support out on them. You can get about 3 or 4 extra inches of play room behind the rad. Gives the radiator kind of a "track" to slide on.

The MINI tech here in town loaned me the bolts he uses last time I did my clutch

 

Is there anything we need to do so the airbag doesn't deploy? Also I have a 5 piece dash, i dont know if it makes a difference, im just making sure.

Thanks

 

Sorry for the double post.

Do you mean angle the seat as if you were laying it down? or so the edge of the seat is pointing to the front right corner (USA passenger) of your car?

 

I'm interested to see if anyone has a DIY instruction to replace the rear hatch hinges.