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  #51  
Old 10-15-2010, 03:06 PM
welcha13
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Originally Posted by 05Greenie View Post
I'm interested to see if anyone has a DIY instruction to replace the rear hatch hinges.
This is actually pretty simple according to the manual.

WARNING - Support hatch with a suitable prop rod before removing struts.

-Release top of gas strut from hatch by prying spring clip. This would be the end that's attached to the hatch. The clip can be pried off with a flat-head screwdriver I believe. Remove strut end from ball joint.
-Remove bottom of gas strut from body in a similar manner.
-Install new struts to hatch and body by firmly pressing strut sockets onto ball joints and locking spring clips into position.
 
  #52  
Old 10-15-2010, 03:20 PM
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I think the reuest was for hinges, not support shocks. Someone must have a rust problem in the hinges themselves.
 
  #53  
Old 10-15-2010, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CRoth View Post
I think the reuest was for hinges, not support shocks. Someone must have a rust problem in the hinges themselves.
Right I see... I was thinking struts since mine have been failing in any temperature under 60 F.

I don't see anything in the manual on removing the hinges themselves. I suppose they are bolted on the inside underneath the headlines/bezel in the rear?
 
  #54  
Old 10-24-2010, 09:26 AM
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How about something on replacing the V-Belt or Auxiliary Drivebelt Renewal (as the Haynes manual calls it). This is an item in Inspection II. I have an 03 MCS 6-speed.

Thanks,
 
  #55  
Old 11-13-2010, 12:42 AM
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Water pump replacement

For possible future weekend project.....on the R53....
 
  #56  
Old 11-28-2010, 12:33 PM
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R53 add cruise control

I'd like to see a DIY on adding cruise control. I have an '06 JCW without and I'd really like to add it. I've seen everything from 'just buy the switches off EBay and reprogram' to 'buy a $1200 kit from the dealer'. I asked my dealer and was sent a 24 page instruction booklet http://www.telusplanet.net/~jamiefox...trofitMFSW.pdf with a $1000+ quote.

I wouldn't need the MFSW, I have a 3-spoke already, the question is I guess if my car has the wiring harnesses/switches in place already. I have conflicting information here too - by checking my VIN, my dealer says my car doesn't have the necessary pieces, a friend of a friend at a BMW shop says it does.

If anyone has done this, could they do a DIY?

Thanks.
 

Last edited by thebigf; 11-28-2010 at 12:46 PM.
  #57  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:56 AM
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DIY Request: Remove/replace third tail light assembly - 2006 Cooper-S

EDIT: Never mind....I took a look at the mounting and it's just three torx screws that holds the assembly in. The part alone is $170, so I got a little paranoid about a DIY, hence the request.
 

Last edited by KJA9403; 11-30-2010 at 10:30 AM. Reason: found the answer
  #58  
Old 12-21-2010, 11:57 AM
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Easy for anyone but me...,, 2006 R50 mc...How do you get the high beam lamp out of the housing? I see a pair of metal clip-like devices holding it in. Just get a pair of needle nose pliers on each one at the same time? Surely it doesn't require special tools, right? Right??
 
  #59  
Old 12-21-2010, 02:26 PM
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Those clips are kinda spring-loaded and they hook into place. While pressing inward (toward the base of the bulb) squeeze them together with your fingers. You should feel them unhook, and the wire will swing out as one piece. At that point, the bulb should just about fall out (so be careful). BTW, if you feel like you need a needle-nose, STOP. You're still not doing it right.
 
  #60  
Old 12-21-2010, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ellcapitan View Post
Those clips are kinda spring-loaded and they hook into place. While pressing inward (toward the base of the bulb) squeeze them together with your fingers. You should feel them unhook, and the wire will swing out as one piece. At that point, the bulb should just about fall out (so be careful). BTW, if you feel like you need a needle-nose, STOP. You're still not doing it right.
Thank you. With the headlamps in the hood, its real awkward trying to get up in there. I see a pair of clips about 45 degrees apart, and then a third slightly larger clip the opposite side of the bulb. I presume you were describing the 2 clips that are kind of close together...

Thanks again for your help.
 
  #61  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:34 AM
rallymaniac
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Originally Posted by dubyas View Post
Lower engine mount replacement please.
I would be interested in the upper (passenger) mount replacement guide
 
  #62  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:56 AM
welcha13
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Originally Posted by rallymaniac View Post
I would be interested in the upper (passenger) mount replacement guide
That one isn't too bad at least on the 1st gen. I just did mine a few weeks ago.
The odd part is a long bolt that you must undo from underneath the frame that goes into the bottom of the mount. It's probably impossible to get to without getting the car jacked up on that side. On top of being hard to get to it requires an e-series socket to unbolt. On top of that, as soon as you unbolt it you're likely to get fluid running out everywhere (I got a face full when I did mine).

But it's really straightforward on the top side.
Make sure you support the engine underneath with a jack and a block of wood between before removing the mount. It may take some finagling to get the mount free but you'll get it out.
 
  #63  
Old 02-23-2011, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by thebigf View Post
I'd like to see a DIY on adding cruise control. I have an '06 JCW without and I'd really like to add it.
.......

If anyone has done this, could they do a DIY?
While I think it may be possible to add all of the components, you'll still have to take it to the dealer to have the ECU programmed for cruise control.
I had to go through this with a Saturn coupe in the past. It had cruise from the factory but the ECU had been swapped out with a junker one because it had gone bad. Different ECU = no cruise control.

I do think it's odd that a JCW didn't come with cruise control... I thought that was standard on all S models at least.
 
  #64  
Old 02-23-2011, 08:12 AM
rallymaniac
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Originally Posted by welcha13 View Post
That one isn't too bad at least on the 1st gen. I just did mine a few weeks ago.
The odd part is a long bolt that you must undo from underneath the frame that goes into the bottom of the mount. It's probably impossible to get to without getting the car jacked up on that side. On top of being hard to get to it requires an e-series socket to unbolt. On top of that, as soon as you unbolt it you're likely to get fluid running out everywhere (I got a face full when I did mine).

But it's really straightforward on the top side.
Make sure you support the engine underneath with a jack and a block of wood between before removing the mount. It may take some finagling to get the mount free but you'll get it out.

awesome, Thank you. I'll give it a try next weekend during the oil change. I may be able to do the serpentine belt as well.
 
  #65  
Old 02-23-2011, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by welcha13 View Post
... I thought that was standard on all S models at least.
You'd be surprised! ...I know I was; I just assumed my used '05 MCS had it as standard when I bought it (as most cars do these days...even the cheap ones), and was DUPED by the dash dimmer switch, which looked like a cruise control button to me.

On long trips, I've learned to rely on CC as a "necessary convenience" and to avoid speeding tickets. It's actually "vitally" important to me, and I doubt I would have bought this "premium small car" had I known it didn't have it.

It means no long trips in my MINI. It also means my MINI is already penciling itself onto my S#!T-LIST for this inexcusable impracticality/omission-as-standard-equipment (I don't think, in this day and age, that CC is something you should have to pay extra for). Personal history has proven that when too many items find their way onto that "list", it's not long before the car goes bye-bye. And, I usually never go back to the same brand or maker.

If BMW ever reads these forums--and it seems apparent that they DON'T: Do you see why nickel-and-diming people with line-item options is a BAD IDEA??

I'm reading this thread, of course, looking for a solution...but I guess it's not a simple thing to "correct". I've actually added CC to a couple older cars. It was a simple matter of going to a salvage yard, finding a car that has it, buying the few (and usually very inexpensive) extra parts, and running the cable/plugging into the pre-existing wire connectors, and voila...cruise control. But NOOoooo, not on these cars. You have to replace the whole steering wheel with the switches and HOPE you can find a dealer who won't murder you for activating it in the car's computer. Why couldn't it just be a simple matter of replacing the blank spoke pods with ones with the buttons, plug them in to pre-existing wiring, and be done?

Rant: OFF.

With that off my chest , has anyone done a CC upgrade without the remote stereo buttons? If I ever actually were to do this, I would have no use for this feature, since I have an aftermarket audio system...and, therefore, would not want the non-functional buttons there at all. ...I'm aware of the PAX (?) module (aftermarket interface for factory steering wheel audio controls), but I have no interest in this "feature"--I have no problem reaching the radio--and I'm not willing to pay extra for it (they're actually not cheap) and/or tear my radio out (again) to install it...
 

Last edited by ellcapitan; 02-23-2011 at 09:19 AM.
  #66  
Old 02-23-2011, 11:54 AM
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Why not just go with an Audiovox or other aftermarket cruise control. I put one of these on a Ford Ranger a while back and it worked just fine. Total cost was less than $150. It come with a little dash mounted button system that is not as nice as having it on the wheel but it works just fine.

While i agree that they all should have cruise, doing your research before you buy is absolutly nessesary. The first one I looked at did not have cruise and I passed because of it.
 
  #67  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:26 PM
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While i agree that they all should have cruise, doing your research before you buy is absolutely necessary. The first one I looked at did not have cruise and I passed because of it.
I agree with you, unfortunately or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, my '06 is a mint JCW Comp. Edition, hardly a mark on it, it had only 20,000 km on it, wasn't even allowed out in the rain. I overlooked the lack of cruise thinking it wouldn't be that big of a deal to add it later. Live and learn I guess. If I decide not to cough up the $1k, I'll check out an aftermarket system.
 
  #68  
Old 02-23-2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shrimpy View Post
doing your research before you buy is absolutly nessesary.
Guilty as charged.

I doubt you could add a generic aftermarket cruise control system to these cars because of the "throttle-by-wire"...
 
  #69  
Old 02-27-2011, 06:04 AM
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Help replacing side mirror caps!

Originally Posted by grccwill View Post
I have a 2010 MINI and have just gotten a checkered rear view mirror cover. I've been looking for instructions on how to put it on, but can't find any. Anyone out there know how or can give me a link to a post that explains it?

Thanx in advance.
Me too! There are basic instructions on Outmotoring.com, where I ordered my checkered caps. I am told you can easily break the mirrors. Any helpful advise, or tips? They say its easy, but they don't really tell how to carefully pop out the mirrors.
 
  #70  
Old 03-24-2011, 06:55 AM
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DIY Silicone IC Couplers?

Has anyone done or thought about this? They don't appear to be any type of secret compound. Need to know the inside diameter and wall thickness at least. Any other thoughts?
 
  #71  
Old 03-24-2011, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by GigglesMcMini View Post
Me too! There are basic instructions on Outmotoring.com, where I ordered my checkered caps. I am told you can easily break the mirrors. Any helpful advise, or tips? They say its easy, but they don't really tell how to carefully pop out the mirrors.
My husband replaced mine, by using a crochet hook. He did NOT remove the mirrors, instead I held a flashlight, while he, with mirrors tilted to make an opening, carefully guided it in to release the latches. It was delicate, took some time, but it worked!! He is an ATM tech, so he works with his hands and has a natural ability for things like that (I am lucky!)

He said it wasn't difficult, just need lots of patience...Good Luck!! I LOVE mine!! I have the checkered ones too, with matching rear view mirror cover. Soon to also have the matching side scuttles!!
 
  #72  
Old 03-28-2011, 03:22 PM
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IC couplers

bump for IC coupler ideas . . .
 
  #73  
Old 04-25-2011, 08:20 PM
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Contrary to what has been posted you absolutely do not have to take the upper dash cover off to get the dash faces off (at least with the 3 piece).

1. Open glove box look in top left corner at bottom of right panel for a screw. If it is still there remove it.

2. Grab top of drivers side knee bolster by the dip for the steering wheel, pull down and away. Look at the bottom right of the left panel for a screw and remove it if there.

3. (optional, but makes the left panel easier) unscrew the two torx screws holding the tach in place to get it away from the dash more.

4. Go back to the passenger side, grab the bottom of the dash panel in the middle and jerk it up/out. The left panel fits under the top and the center panel so it will start the center for you. Carry on across the car.

5. Reverse to re-assemble.

It takes less time than it took to post this from my phone, and to prove it I'll go shoot a video, upload it and post it here. :P
 
  #74  
Old 04-30-2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 56rfixr View Post
Fan-
what you need
t30 torx
8mm socket
10mm socket
13mm socket
Philips screwdriver
panel popper or some kind of pry tool
hose clamp pliers or regular pliers
small Flathead screwdriver or straight pick
3 zip ties

you can do this with or without jacking up the car, its dependent on you
remove 8mm bolts that are vertical, not horizontal in the bumper corners
remove the t30 bolts on the front of the bumper
remove the 3 10mm bolts on the bottom of the bumper
remove the Phillips screws on the outer edges of the bumper, make sure you get the ones that hold the fender liner to the bumper and not the chin spoiler to the bumper.
Pull the bumper forward, unplug the turn signal, running light, side marker light and temp sensor, route the wiring through the bumper so its not in the way.
Unbolt the 10 13mm bolts for the bumper support, should be 8 nuts and 2 bolts. remove bumper with a stiff tug
Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator
Remove the small intake horn from the core support and air box (for ease of access)
unplug the fan connector on the left front frame horn
using a small screwdriver release the retaining pin on the connector to free it from the bracket.
there are 3 zip ties holding the fan harness to the core support, cut those zip ties with a pair of cutters
remove the radiator mounting pins (2 plastic pins on the upper corners of the bumper)
with the pins removed, the radiator is now disconnected from the core support and can tilt forward.
The radiator is held in with small brackets, you can lift the brackets up with your finger and slide the fan out. (This is a little confusing. I think you meant the radiator fan housing is held in with tabs and slots - they're not really brackets. It just lifts out at this point.)

To reinstall- reverse the steps. make sure the fan wiring routing is correct and you're all good.
Great walk-thru! I used this process to replace my radiator fan. Seemed much simpler than other DIYs to get to maintenance mode. I agree that there's no need to jack up the car; the only thing you'll need is a stubby Phillips screwdriver to get to the outer corner screws from below.

The one note I would add is this: after pulling out the 2 "radiator pins", the retainers must come out as well (pinch them from the back and push them forward a bit). Before doing this, I couldn't figure out how to get the top of the radiator away from the entire support structure and I didn't want to pull too hard. The pin retainers were the only things holding it on at that point.

Also, although the entire radiator core support is now loose, only the radiator and condenser tilt forward out of the core support - giving you access to the fan. After tilting the radiator/condenser assembly forward, the fan assembly just lifts up out of its slotted retainers. The new part just drops right back in.

Total repair time: 1 hour.

Thanks again!
 
  #75  
Old 05-01-2011, 03:59 PM
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Looking for a DIY to install a 115vac plug in my '03 R50.
 

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