GP Talk (2006) Discussion of the limited edition, MINI Cooper S (R53)-based, John Cooper Works GP.

Rear Brake Pad Wear Sensor Replacement on GP

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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 07:09 AM
  #1  
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Rear Brake Pad Wear Sensor Replacement on GP

Does anyone know the easiest way to access the connector for the right rear brake pad wear sensor on the GP? Which of the plastic panels have to come off?

Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 08:01 AM
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Instead of replacing the sensor, I just removed the sensor from the pad and tie wrapped the wire out of the way. Of course I no longer have the sensor telling me when the pads are worn but I can look every so often or I will hear the noise when the pad is worn and the backing plate rubs on the rotor. Since pads and rotors need to be replaced at same time I don't worry about getting a little mark in the rotor from a worn pad.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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That's what I have done for now. Having already purchased the new sensor, I might as well replace it if I can.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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I just purchased pads and rotors for the rear of my GP and since the replacement sensor was reasonably priced I went ahead and ordered it. If it's a pain to replace I'll skip it and eat the sensor, not worth tearing apart my car when it's not really needed.
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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I just replaced rear pads and sensor broke. Dash light is still on. Any way to bypass or reset the dash light?
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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Your post is a little unclear. Did you replace the rear pads but not the worn-out sensor? Or did you replace the pads and sensor but the light is still on.

If the sensor is worn-out (contact is worn through opening the circuit path) than the light will stay on until the circuit path is closed. You can close (correct) the circuit in one of two ways; 1) replace the sensor and wire or 2) cut the sensor block off the wire and splice the two wire leads together and then tie-wrap the sensor wire in an out of the way location. The wires are very thin and might even be aluminum wire so I found them a little challenging to solder together but it was do-able.

If the sensor was replaced and the light stayed on. Try turning the key to the #2 position for about 30 seconds and the light should go out.
 

Last edited by quikmni; May 16, 2012 at 08:47 PM.
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Old May 23, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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I would beg to differ with QUIKMINI's comment about replacing the pads and rotors at the same time. If the rotor thickness is still within spec., there is no rationale to replace. All major high performance pad manufacturers recommend replacing pads with old rotors and new rotors with old pads. Only when both are below spec. would I replace both at the same time.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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quikmni
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Originally Posted by NC TRACKRAT
I would beg to differ with QUIKMINI's comment about replacing the pads and rotors at the same time. If the rotor thickness is still within spec., there is no rationale to replace. All major high performance pad manufacturers recommend replacing pads with old rotors and new rotors with old pads. Only when both are below spec. would I replace both at the same time.
I did not intend to imply that the pads and rotors must be replaced at the same time. I was just trying to get clarification on what the OP had done so far.
 
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