Hell NAMers, does anyone know detailed info on the GP suspension compared to JCW?

 

The only real difference between the 1st Gen JCW suspension and the GP suspension is the trailing arms in the rear. See this thread I created last year.

The GP even has the same 17mm rear sway bar, which came with the Sport Suspension Plus (and is still used with the JCW suspension).

Interesting item of note - the R56 Sport Suspension comes with an 18mm rear sway bar, so a conservative and subtle upgrade for any 1st Gen MINI (SS+, JCW or GP), while still remaining OEM, would be to put the R56 SS rear sway on.

 

does the r56 bar bolt right up to the r53? Hmm I am just going to have to go in the shop and look!!

 

But the shocks are the same for GP and JCW?

 

Yes, I believe it does. However, it's only really of interest to people who really want to stay OEM, like me. There are a lot more choices out there in the aftermarket, with adjustability, etc.The springs may be rated differently, as the JCW suspension for 1st gen MCS is actually available in 4 different spring rates. This is why they ask you for your VIN when you order the JCW suspension (they're supposed to ask you, anyway)... you are supposed to get the correct spring rate for the options on your MINI.

(The same is also true for the factory SS+ suspension - spring rates varied according to whether certain options were selected)

Other than that possible difference, (after all, the GP has a different weight than regular MCSes) the GP suspension parts are identical.

 

I'm interested in making the GP ride a little less stiff. I was considering 16" wheel/tire combo and/or softer springs. Which one should I try first?

Any suggestions for going with a softer spring rate using other MINI stock springs or aftermarket? I've called a few aftermarket manufacturers but they don't seem to know much about GP's and most say the car would be lowered. I don't want to make the car any lower.

My GP is for sale in the Marketplace forum, but I'll keep it if I can't get enough for it.

Thanks,

Lee

 

I strongly suggest you try the wheel/tire combo before messing with the springs. Since the GP is a very limited edition, you will be best served (in terms of future resale value) by making as few changes as possible to the original configuration. Swapping out wheels & tires is much less drastic than changing the suspension.

That being said, you will have to be careful about which 16" wheels you choose... the GP comes standard with the 1st Gen JCW brakes, and not every 16" wheel will fit those brakes (in the front). I believe only one of the OEM models will (X-Lites), although I'm sure some of the aftermarket designs will as well.

Going to 16" wheels & tires will really soften up the ride, particularly if you choose non-runflat tires (assuming you're willing to deal with the consequences if you get a flat... there's no spare, remember?).

Personally, I love my 18" wheels with runflats (and JCW suspension), but the harshness of the ride is not a primary concern to me. Different strokes...

 

The biggest change is going to be swapping out the runflats for something other than runflats. Also putting thicker profile tires on will help. Unfortunately you bought a limited edition "Extreme Barebones" edition of a car that's already pretty well known for it's bumpy ride and stiff suspension, so there's not going to be THAT much you can do to soften it up.

For what it's worth I daily drive my car with a full race suspension and couldn't be happier .

 

You've also got a LOT younger bones and joints than most of us, Nick.

 

The only factory authorized wheel, due to clearance, in 16 inch is the R-94 Bridgespoke. I run them on my car with the JCWorks brakes.

The x-lites, R-84, will work and many people use them but the factory says, I've read that here on NAM, there's not enough clearance for proper cooling.

Hope this helps...

 

Good point. I forgot about the Bridgespokes.

And yes, I should have clarified the cooling issue on the X-Lites. I suspect it would only be a real issue for continued heavy braking (such as on the track), and not as big of a deal for street driving.

 

Yea, but I've driven in the stock GP, and in the stock MINI. It's not THAT bad. My point was more along the lines of "You knew it wasn't going to be a Limo when you bought it, what exactly are you looking for?"

You don't buy a MINI, a GP at that, and make your primary goal making the suspension as soft as a floaty Lincoln Towncar.

 

Well stated. Much the line I usually use:

"If I had wanted a freakin' Cadillac, I'd have bought one!"

That being said, many people buy MINIs for different reasons... such a wonderfully versatile car. Gotta love it!

 

The 16" R87 is also authorized, but it is only 5.5" in width and intended for use with winter tires.

 

...and hard to get here in the USA, if I'm not mistaken. I'm pretty sure I tried.

 

Damn, forgot about that one!

Going from 45 series runflats to 50 series non runflats on my car was day and night in ride quality and lessened noise.

I did a track day, AMVIV 5, with the 16's and the handling was good, not as crisp as the runflats but good enough to make me smile a lot.

 

I want a Gp.....
I have the 17s on my car and they dont seem too bad
the damn two piece ones....
can you pull them appart to clean them?

 

Thanks for all of the speedy replies/suggestions.

Looks like 16" wheels/tires would be the next thing, then.

I like a firm/sporty ride, but the quality of some of the roads and freeways around here, expecially up around L.A. makes for a punishing ride at times. I'm wondering what might happen to my strut towers over time.

I have the Continental Comfort Kit which has an inflator and latex sealer in case of a flat tire.


Lee

 

I wouldn't change the suspension, either. Store away the 18" w/runflats and network your local mini scene to see if anyone has a set of non-runflat 16s that you can test drive. There's a significant difference and that may be all you need to remain happy. As for R84 v spokes, I use them with my JCW brakes and the clearance is very tight. Tight enough that I had to replace the OEM adhesive wheel weights with thinner, (but readily available) stick-on weights.


You wonder about your strut towers? Simple and cheap insurance is a pair of M7 strut tower reinforcing plates for about $100. I don't think GPs come with the JCW strut tower brace, do they? (this would do the same, but at about $350).

 

True dat!!

You can definitely take some of the sharp edges off the bumps by different means, but it's still going to be a fairly firm and short-wheelbase ride.

 

I live in LA myself, it's not that bad .

 

I should say not. Here on the East Coast we've got potholes big enough to get all four wheels into, and 8 inch high asphalt creep ridges at bustops. Strut tower reinforcing plates or strut braces are an abosolute requirement to prevent tower mushrooming around here.

 

This last week, I changed out my runflats (205/40x18) for 215/40x18 Toyo T1R tires. I went with the 40 series (with slightly taller sidewall, 1/8") to smooth out the ride slightly but I did not want to give up any performance. The overall tire diameter is 1/4" taller so it raised the vehicle height about 1/8".

The difference is amazing. The ride is so much smoother and quieter. The turn-in response is quicker (I could actually noice a difference). I have not driven hard in a canyon yet so I am not sure about the overall improvement. There is a hugh improvement on the Southern California freeways.

Thus, instead of going to smaller wheels, I suggest staying with the 18" wheels and changing the tires.

 

Definitely will make a difference. Really the benefit given by smaller wheels is the fact that you can get tires with a thicker sidewall without really changing the overall diameter of the tires (Thus your speedometer remains accurate, and the ride height is unchanged). 1/8" of sidewall will have the same effect whether it's on 16's or 18's .

 

Does this mean that when retrofitting the JCW suspension that it should come with the 17mm rear sway bar as part of the kit?