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R60 A/C Acting Weird

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Old Dec 5, 2022 | 11:04 AM
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R60 A/C Acting Weird

I have a 2015 non-turbo R60 Countryman with the automatic climate control (little LCD screen for HVAC setting/info). The A/C isn't blowing cold and on a humid day (like most of them in GA), the windows will fog up in a few minutes of driving. With the car parked, I can hear the compressor engage when I press the A/C button, and I can feel the normal slight shudder from the engine. I checked the pressures and it seems normal: Ambient temp was 62ºF and the low pressure was around 30PSI and high was around 150PSI. I used my scan tool to switch the compressor on and off and I could feel it cool down a little with the A/C on. But on the road there doesn't seem to be much of a difference.

I also pulled the following code, but am not finding out much about it: 9C90; IHKA: Control-Unit Fault

It seems like a pretty generic fault code and, as far as I can tell, the control unit is working because it'll switch the compressor on and off.

I know a little about A/C systems and would prefer to try to fix it myself without just randomly throwing parts at it.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2022 | 01:52 AM
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did you make a filter cleaning ?
 

Last edited by garry sharp; Dec 9, 2022 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2022 | 03:15 PM
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Do you mean the cabin filter?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2022 | 07:25 AM
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Cabin filter would just block the air flow, I would hook it up to a changer and see if its in spec with 134a. Or a leak in the system

Got this from another A/c siteIf you think that you have an issue with your A/C system but you are not sure which component is causing the malfunction it is a good idea to hook your compressor up to a gauge.

An A/C System that is working properly should have 150 PSI on the high side and 30 PSI on the low side.

Obviously the main issue that people deal with when they have a broken A/C system is that the air coming out the vents is not cold enough. Here is a list of the pressure readings that are characteristic of an A/C compressor that is not blowing cold air into the cabin of your car:

250 PSI / 30 PSI = You have air somewhere in the system.

250 PSI / 50 PSI = The system is overcharged and the condenser is not cooling. Condenser may be blocked.

225 PSI / 80 PSI = It is likely that the expansion valve is opened too wide (not the case if your A/C system has an orifice tube) Also, you could have too much refrigerant in the system.

200 PSI / 70 PSI = There is a blockage somewhere in your system either before or at the expansion device.

160 PSI / 10 PSI = It is possible that the evaporator is frosted, the low pressure piping is faulty, or the expansion valve might be clogged. Check the evaporator, piping, and expansion valve to locate the source of the issue.

150 PSI / 30 PSI = There is water in the system.

150 PSI / >10 PSI = Your expansion valve might be stuck open, or there could be a leak somewhere you in your system.

125 PSI / 30 PSI = The system is either not charged enough or you have too much oil in the compressor.

100 PSI /100 PSI = The compressor is not engaging because there is no power coming to it or you have a burnt coil.

50 PSI / 50 PSI = The clutch is not engaging.

 
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Old Dec 15, 2022 | 03:22 PM
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Good stuff - thanks! I do have 150 on the high side and 30 on the low - which is what it should be (I think). Even so, I have warm, humid air from the vents (it's warm and humid outside).
 
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Old Dec 16, 2022 | 09:20 AM
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Blend door in the HVAC system? Or something like it. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...14#64113422659



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...er-heater.html


https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/64113422659/
 
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Old Dec 16, 2022 | 02:57 PM
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Maybe? It's worth checking!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2022 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rob_jones
Maybe? It's worth checking!
My first thought was a vent door. Some air is not being routed to/through the evaporator and is not getting cooled and moisture removed.

The pressures might be ok but they might not be ok. With A/C systems high and low pressure is dependent upon ambient temperature. Some cars I have owned I had access to this info in the factory service manual. I don't have a MINI service manual so I don't know what the pressures should be. But you should know.

Generally a tech will evacuate the A/C system of refrigerant and oil. He'll let A/C machine continue to subject the system to a vacuum to remove any moisture. And he will check for leaks. Small leaks may not show up though. He'll refill the system with the proper amount and type of refrigerant and oil. He may add a dye if a leak is suspected.

My 2nd hand info is a common A/C leak is the schrader valves in the connectors to which the A/C machine connects. In some cases it is SOP to replace these before refilling the system with refrigerant and oil.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2022 | 05:53 AM
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I've had to replace a lot of schrader valves in A/C service ports, but mostly in GM vehicles. I haven't seen a lot of problems with BMW/MINI, but there's a first time for everything, I guess!

I hadn't considered it might a be problem with a blend door. Is there a good way to test that? Could that be related to the 9C90; IHKA: Control-Unit Fault?
 
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Old May 16, 2024 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rob_jones
I've had to replace a lot of schrader valves in A/C service ports, but mostly in GM vehicles. I haven't seen a lot of problems with BMW/MINI, but there's a first time for everything, I guess!

I hadn't considered it might a be problem with a blend door. Is there a good way to test that? Could that be related to the 9C90; IHKA: Control-Unit Fault?
Apologies for necro bump, but I have the same issue with the same car - base R60.
No AC, that 9c90 fault and current wait times to get into a shop around here is 3-4 weeks.
Have you resolved your issue?

Does anyone know how to check AC pressure in ISTA? I cannot find anything on that. I know how to do it in INPA, but I only have BMW chassis listed and no R56. :(
 
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