I have seen MANY posts out here regarding the replacement of timing chain tensioners on the Gen 1 R MINI's. The problem is that there seems to be a lot of conflicting information on this subject so I am seeking some clarification. It really bumms me out when there seems to be a lack of detailed information on something like this.

Many folks say it is absolutely necessary to install the NEW timing chain tensioner WITH THE VALVE COVER REMOVED so you can "pop" the timing chain tensioner from the top of the engine.

Other folks say you can "pop" the timing chain tensioner with the valve cover still on and simply stuff it into the hole on the back of the engine already deployed. Why on Gods green earth would anyone want to pull the valve cover if they didn't have to?

Looking at the OEM directions, it leaves a lot to the imagination (instructions are not very clear). There was actually information indicating that the upper timing gear should be pre-positioned before removing the old tensioner. This makes absolutely no sense at all to me!

Obviously, I have absolutely NO interest in taking an already sealed valve cover off if I can avoid it, BUT, I dont want to get this tensioner out and find out that I need to take the valve cover off.

My question is, for those of you who actually installed the tensioner WITH THE VALVE COVER STILL ON, can you tell me how it went, and what difficulties (if any) you met with.

Did you find it difficult to cram the deployed tensioner into there and be able to install the cap?

My vehicle only has 65K on her and she does make some noise when its cold. If you believe most of what is posted out here, it implies that one of these engines should NEVER make any noise when cold. I have never owned a first Gen R that DIDN'T make noise on a cold start up, and the colder it was, the noisier it is until she warms up. I find it a bit perplexing to see so many conflicting accounts of when its time to change a tensioner. My previous R50 made cold start noise at 60K and with 140K on her now, she makes just as much nose now as than and it runs just fine and has never failed and is no more noisy or quiet than it ever was. I am all for preventative maintenance, and as seemingly cheap and easy as this job appears to be, I'm certainly not opposed to changing it to avoid damaging the guides and timing components, but I dont want to open a can of worms doing it.

Thanks for your time and interest.

 

I changed my tensioner last fall while doing a whole bunch of gasket/o-ring/seal related updates.

The valve cover was off but it didn't matter, as when I removed the old tensioner, it was 'popped,' so I installed the new one in the 'pre-popped' condition, and it went right in - cap tightened - no problem.

I don't foresee you having any problems installing it in the already deployed condition.