Today I brought my 2013 Countryman to America's Tire for a free tire rotation and noticed that the invoice stated the wheel lug nut torque spec is 90 lb/ft. I told the guy that it should be 100-105lb/ft for the 2nd gen MINIs. I informed him that ~90lb/ft is actually the torque spec for the 1st gen MINIs (r50, r52, r53), which have 12mm nuts (vs 14mm for the 2nd gen). He said he has to follow what their computer says (strangely, the computer DID show 100lb/ft for the Clubman ONLY, which makes zero sense). So we argued.

I refered to the owners manual in my glovebox, but for some reason, the torque specs aren't printed in my 2013 Countryman paper manual. I think the main reason for this is because MINI stopped including the tire changing kit (jack, lug wrench, etc) with the vehicle.

So, I asked him to call a local MINI dealership for confirmation. To my surprise, the MINI service advisor said it was 85lb/ft! WTF! I told the America's Tire guy to work on the tire rotation while I figure out this mess.

I spoke to the MINI service advisor again and asked him to please double-check the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. He instantly replied that he has it in front of him (I highly doubt it) and that it states 85lb/ft.

Finally, I went to www.miniusa.com and found links to pdfs of the 2nd gen MINI owners manuals (there are separate ones for "Hardtop/Club," "Countryman/Paceman," and "Coupe/Roadster/Convertible") Aha! Printed right there in all of them was "103.3lb/ft"! I knew I wasn't crazy!

I showed the America's tire guy what I had found, and after a phone call with management, he finally torqued my lugs to 105lb/ft. Afterwards, he said that he could physically "feel" that it was good and not too tight.

I left the MINI service advisor a voice message, telling him that the owners manuals found on www.miniusa.com state "103.3lb/ft." Unsurprisingly, he has not yet returned my call.

Anyway, the lesson here is that you can't always trust your MINI dealership (which I'm sure most of us know already) and to check your lug nut torque!! The difference between 85 and 105 is substantial. Although I doubt a wheel would've immediately fallen off during normal driving, you never want to take risks with this sort of stuff.

 

The first time I rotated my tires @ ~5k miles the lug nuts felt pretty loose relative to 103lb/ft. After the first wheel I checked the torque on another and it was about 80lb/ft. So if the bolts loosen from 103->80 (assuming they were properly tightened when the wheels were installed) in 5k miles I wonder how much more they'll go if left for a 'recommended' 15k oil change? Haven't read of wheels flying off on people yet so maybe it doesn't get much worse?

 

I found the very same values at my first rotation.

This makes me think that either

A> They are torqued at the factory to about 80 (which is what I expected out of a 17mm wheel bolt).

B> The wheels loosen a lot from the manufacturing process as they are broken in on the vehicle.

I know some manufacturers have you come back with alloy wheels after the first 25 miles so they can recheck them. Some shops do this also, others don't. I've never had an issue after torquing wheels on a car with them coming lose.

I don't remember Mini saying to do this (come back after a short while).

I torque mine to 90.

 

Your countryman is a 5 lug. The lower torque number is probably correct. The 103 ft*lbs applies to the regular cooper/s/clubman/etc with the 4 lug hubs.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using NAMotoring

 

Link to Hardtop/Clubman owners manual (page 229 says 103.3lb/ft) - http://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/m..._all_trims.pdf

Link to Countryman/Paceman owners manual (page 233 says 103.3lb/ft) - http://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/m..._all_trims.pdf

Link to Coupe/Roadster/Convertible owners manual (page 184 says 103.3lb/ft) - http://www.miniusa.com/content/dam/m...ble_Manual.pdf

 

Would make sense to torque a 5 lug less than a 4 lug but maybe the vehicle weight difference justifies the same rating?

I just did a rotation a few weeks ago but didn't bother to check the torque.

 

After every tire rotation I run out for a 5 or 6 mile spin and run it up to 60 or 70 MPH then return to the garage and re-torque all the way around. Every time, I find a little slack in one or two bolts. It wouldn't hurt to do likewise. I round up and set my wrench to 90# (R-52).

 

From 2013 Countryman / Paceman Owner's Manual 103.3. Note: 2014 Manual removed the torque specs due to run flats and no supplied jack in vehicle to change flat.

 

I know that the specs are higher but the 90 ft lbs is plenty and works great. We even torque the race car wheels to 90 and don't worry about them.

 

Here is an exercise in futility where rubber meets the road hope can save others from. Recently went to Discount Tire for rotation & balance & noticed using torque wrench but never thought to ask, until herein didn't know set at 103'#'s. Since then noticed louder & louder front end noise unto chopping tires in front. Sent to other alignment shop seemed not to far out, still noticed sound, then installed new Timken wheel hub & bearings, EBC rotors & red stuff pads front & tightened thought tight enough, still vibrating & noise @ 49,846 miles. Took to local MINI dealership, said needed new front tires & alignment $189 w/o warranty as if. Just took home, jacked up & rotated tires, used newly purchased torque wrench set to 103# & me at mere 198#'s with cheater still could not get to click, so hit as hard as possible, test drove & WAHLLA, noise gone! Amazing folk how important tightening those four small lugs are, hope helps save $ for someone.

 

davisiaq

103 ft-lb of torque is the force of 103 pounds hanging from the end of a 1 foot rod

if you used a cheater bar i would

1 have your torque wrench checked

2 have your wheels retorqued by a shop

 

davisiaq I would say your lug bolts are now grossly over tightened. You may need an even longer cheater bar to get them off.

 

I weigh a whopping 120 pounds and can easily torque my bolts to 103 ft-lbs (with one arm).

Definitely sounds like something is wrong with your wrench.

 

This!!!

 

I retorqued my '12 CMS FWD to 103lb ft yesterday and wow the whole chassis felt "tighter", "more responsive", "less delay when turning the wheel", and the whole car felt more solid overall. I'm not sure if I was just being sensitive, but definitely felt it. The car was a bit "loose" before this.

Can anybody explain this better than my butt dyno?

Kevin

 

Its the little things like this with BMW which has fustrated me for years.....Thanks for putting this in writing. I've had similar arguments with MINI USA as well....such as: With respect to the 2nd Gen, why were they manufacturing the MINI JCW Countryman with the STOCK EXHAUST....? At the time the ONLY JCW manufactured coming from the factory that way. New Jersey had no answer for me. Second thing was: I had a factory ordered JCW Coupe' involved in a a rear end crash. The exhaust was damaged requiring replacement. These factory JCW exhaust mid sections and tips are WELDED together into one large piece ....When looking them up by VIN, that system was not available, instead making me order the "after sales" version of the exhaust WHICH IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. The answer I got back not only from MINI USA but the regional service rep was to; order the aftersales version of the ehxuast system adding, " well, don't you want to get the car done for the client ?!" Dumb asses.....BMW treats the MINI brand as if its the "red headed step child" of the brand, meanwhile more than willing to get their bump in pay from the full commision sales from parts and service......