Everytime we try to screw the aluminium case it screws on crooked...can anyone help...?

 

Don't worry happened to me and then I lost all my oil! It's on an angle, try to tip it downward slightly but make sure the stupid threads connect to the housing and go gently at first when you connect it.

 

What I did last time was when I felt it starting to cross thread, I would unscrew a bit, twist it past the cross threading part without putting a lot of pressure on it, so it doesn't cross thread. As soon as you're past the cross threading part keep screwing it on but use a lot of pressure. That should screw it on nicely without cross threading.

 

My "s" has a cluster of rubber hoses that converg just under and almost to the front of the filter. They felt like they were all but touching it before I took it off. I dont think they are but they are danged close. And I felt the were in the way as I tried to get it back on. Once the filter is on I think there is a small space and they are not touching.

I just felt around by hand and went slow but first make sure you actully have the filter in the proper spot. I thought I was within the housing and ready to screw it on but I was not. By feeling around and going cautiously and being extra aware, it sort of "fell" or slid into the correct position and it was all gravy from there. Point being It was not seated on the threads and ready to be turned but I "thought" it was. Keep working with it. I think it will go easier next time for me as this was the break in oil change.

 

Mine is plastic, first i appky slight pressure and turn
counter clockwise, I can feel it drop a little as the
initial threads slip past each other stop turning
and chance direction to tighten. Should be correctly
seated in the threads and go in easily until the oring
makes contact, then use the wrench and your done.
This procedure also works well with all screws. I do
the same for the air filter cover as any metal screw especially
in plastic will cut new threads if not seated /started correctly
.

 

First, pre-fit the filter element on both the cap and the engine side. This will reduce the resistance when threading it on.
Next, remove the filter and just put the cap on plain, so you get the feeling of the angle of cap as it goes on, and how it feels without any resistance.
Make sure the O-ring is well lubed, that will reduce resistance as well.
Finally, reach in and git 'r done.

 

OP says alum' can so I'm guessing GEN1

The fact that you can't see what you are doing certainly does increase the angst when trying to do this the first time or two. I've found that applying firm down pressure while turning the can makes it turn more easily and it seats properly. Not crazy hard, but firm. If I just turn it with no down force it always tries to get cocked....

 

It happens to everyone. The first time for me I thought I’d have to have it towed to the dealer but alas, with perseverance it went on.

It’s good advise to do it dry a couple of times. That is without the filter. And make sure the filter is tight in the can.

But at the end of the day, it is frustrating. For all of us.

///Rich

 

Yup, been there, done that!
With Spring around the corner, I've two Gen.1's to do
next month! Hopefully, second time will be smoother.
At least this time I know that it will fit on, maybe not
the first, second, third or fourth tries but eventually
it will thread on and bite!
Good luck and try one more time.......or two.....

 

GUILAGUILA456,

If you are talking about the gen 1 MCS oil filter housing then there is a trick on re-installing this top half of the aluminum housing.

On the top half look for flat spots on the thread area. There are 2 flat spots, one is totally flat the second one is 180 degree out which is flat but with 1 thread. On the bottom half of the aluminum housing (brim section) there is a raised part of the brim (3/8 x 3/8 inch). the flat spot on the top halve will line up with this raise (3/8x3/8) on the bottom halve. Carefully line up both and and some wiggle and screw the housing in.

I used to get frustrated screwing this housing together, but, i walk away and get me a diet coke and a smile then i come back to it.

If you need pics i'll send you for clarification.

 

[QUOTE=Eric_Rowland;3690744]First, Make sure the O-ring is well lubed, that will reduce resistance as well.


Besides lubing the o-ring, make sure you use the new o-ring enclosed. I thought it wouldn't make any difference to change out the o-ring as it still "looked" new and both times I did, it leaked.
Took the cannister back off and replaced the o-ring with the new one and guess what... no more leak.
Not going there a third time.

 

Thanks! That's a great tip (below) to locate the flat section on the outside circumference of the canister. I found that locating this "flat" facing up and rotated slightly towards the driver side of the car made engaging the first thread easier. Care is still required to avoid cross threading.

 

Another trick as feeling around the side so its even and the same gap , then tighten it on.

 

Hi, I am having fits today. The worst time ever. Maybe it's that I'm using a Mahle OX 175D oil filter this time. (Does anyone notice a difference in ease-of-threading depending on which filter you use?)

So miles7, this sounds so promising, but you don't say which flat spot to choose:

A) the flat spot that is totally flat or

B) the second one is (that is 180 degrees across the housing) which is flat but with one thread bump?


Then you say "On the bottom half of the aluminum housing (brim section) there is a raised part of the brim (3/8 x 3/8 inch)." Do you mean:

A) "one of the six corners of the hexagon" on the other end of the filter cap is lined-up up with the flat flat in the filter housing casting?

B) the 3/8 x 3/8 inch square the bump you feel under the female threaded filter housing hole connected to the engine and towards the drivers side?

If A) when you say "Carefully line-up both", how can you...they are already cast in place lined-up! And when you say "Carefully line-up both", line them up to what? Do you mean line them "upward" or due north? Please clarify. Thanks.


And anyone have any new techniques? I've tried them all. I've done this maybe eight times before, but never had any ordeals like today.

 

make sure the filter is pressed all the way into the can (it takes some OMPF to press it all the way in)

lube the o-ring

use firm but not STRONG pressure while pressing down on the can and finish with a wrench.

Try installing the can a couple of times without the filter but with the old o-ring .... even with the old filter .... get the feel.

After doing this for 10 years ++ I can tell you that there IS a 'feel' that can be achieved .....

 

MY SITUATION SOLVED - (filter housing threading time reduced from 45 minutes to 1 second)

The attached photo is of (the engine block side) of my usual Mann HU 816 filter (left) vs this new Mahle OX 175D oil filter (right). As can be seen the photo, the Mann filter on the left has a precut press-fit hole that I am used to. This new Mahle OX 175D filter, that has tortured me so, has a much smaller hole that must be dramatically enlarged-to-size by the user which I had not noticed. Before I flinally learned to press the new Mahle filter hard onto the engine (without the aluminum filter housing) my housing would always cross-thread no matter what trick from above I tried.


This explanation from “Sealevel” of the Mini2 forum is the closest to what worked for me:

“This is a little difficult to explain but is very clear once you do it. The ends of the filter element are heavy paper, and the holes in each end are undersized for a tight seal. You need to press fit the new element into place first to enlarge the holes, or you'll have trouble lining up the can and filter and engaging the treads on the block. Use the palm of your hand to press the end of the filter with the larger hole over the tube inside the can first. Now remove it, wet the seal on the other end with oil then press the element into place over the tube on the engine and leave it there. Now you can screw the can back onto the block easily (don't forget to replace the o-ring on the can.) By the way, there's no mistaking which end of the filter element goes where, the larger hole in the can, the smaller one with the seal around it on the block. If you have difficulty getting the can threaded, it's usually because the filter hasn't been pushed onto the tube on the block far enough. Try again--use the palm of your hand and just when you think you're about to collapse the filter, it'll slide on the rest of the way!”


Here is a stepped, very-clear variation of a similar method: