Engine Carbon Buildup Problem census count
Just had mine cleaned out yesterday at the dealer on my 2008 base and had a new "Vanos" outlet solenoid replaced due to carbon buildup. Mini now sells a gas tank/fuel additive to help this. They recommended that every 3,000 miles that this be added. It is recommendedover Sea Foam as it is OEM and won't void warranties. My car runs happy now.
I am new to all of this mini stuff and am planning to buy one. I want what ever one has the fewest problems. This means naturally aspirated models (less power, less ware) but is there a year I should avoid? I am looking for 08 or newer. Any advice?
The carbon build up problem seems to be on "S" model, generation two MINIs, older than 2011. They have the N14 engine.
The non-S MINIs have port injection, so fuel washes any oil mist off of the intake valves, so it doesn't have a chance to bake on.
The 2011 and newer MINI Cooper S N18 engines have a different head with different cam timing. I haven't read any complaints about carbon build up on 2011 and newer MINIs.
There is nothing that you can add to the gas that will prevent carbon build up on the intake ports and valves, as the N14 engine is direct injected, i.e. the fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinders and it never comes into contact with the intake ports or the backs of the intake valves. Oil mist from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system cooks onto the ports and valves and slowly builds up and chokes the intake ports. The only way to get it off is to scrape or walnut blast it off.
Dave
The non-S MINIs have port injection, so fuel washes any oil mist off of the intake valves, so it doesn't have a chance to bake on.
The 2011 and newer MINI Cooper S N18 engines have a different head with different cam timing. I haven't read any complaints about carbon build up on 2011 and newer MINIs.
There is nothing that you can add to the gas that will prevent carbon build up on the intake ports and valves, as the N14 engine is direct injected, i.e. the fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinders and it never comes into contact with the intake ports or the backs of the intake valves. Oil mist from the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system cooks onto the ports and valves and slowly builds up and chokes the intake ports. The only way to get it off is to scrape or walnut blast it off.
Dave
I have a 2006 R52 with 228,805 miles; original engine, original transmission. I picked the car up used at 205,000 miles there was only one previous owner. Last week I ran the car hard (up and down the NJ turnpike for 3 days straight). On the 4th day I was coming back from a job meeting when it felt like I hit a cinderblock in the road! It sounded like the muffler had dropped as well so I pulled over and lifted the hood to see the spark plug wire laying on top of the engine! Spark plug was gone! Since then I have put a helicoil in and the engine is "running". Compression test shows 180-120-180-175 so I am thinking I have a burned exhaust valve. :( I will probably look at taking the heads off myself but I am worried that a full engine teardown is necessary and may end up doing a valve job now with a full teardown in the summer when I have a little more time. In the midst of doing the compression test, I opened the throttle body valve to find the entire inside coated with black soot! This has also been coming out of the exhaust as well. I thought it was a Borla exhaust issue since I had a little sootiness before but now it is oil-hungry so it looks ugly my friends... Any good shops in Philadelphia/South Jersey area someone could recommend?
I have a 2006 R52 with 228,805 miles; original engine, original transmission. I picked the car up used at 205,000 miles there was only one previous owner. Last week I ran the car hard (up and down the NJ turnpike for 3 days straight). On the 4th day I was coming back from a job meeting when it felt like I hit a cinderblock in the road! It sounded like the muffler had dropped as well so I pulled over and lifted the hood to see the spark plug wire laying on top of the engine! Spark plug was gone! Since then I have put a helicoil in and the engine is "running". Compression test shows 180-120-180-175 so I am thinking I have a burned exhaust valve. :( I will probably look at taking the heads off myself but I am worried that a full engine teardown is necessary and may end up doing a valve job now with a full teardown in the summer when I have a little more time. In the midst of doing the compression test, I opened the throttle body valve to find the entire inside coated with black soot! This has also been coming out of the exhaust as well. I thought it was a Borla exhaust issue since I had a little sootiness before but now it is oil-hungry so it looks ugly my friends... Any good shops in Philadelphia/South Jersey area someone could recommend?
Helix13 is in PA
I have a 2006 R52 with 228,805 miles; original engine, original transmission. I picked the car up used at 205,000 miles there was only one previous owner. Last week I ran the car hard (up and down the NJ turnpike for 3 days straight). On the 4th day I was coming back from a job meeting when it felt like I hit a cinderblock in the road! It sounded like the muffler had dropped as well so I pulled over and lifted the hood to see the spark plug wire laying on top of the engine! Spark plug was gone! Since then I have put a helicoil in and the engine is "running". Compression test shows 180-120-180-175 so I am thinking I have a burned exhaust valve. :( I will probably look at taking the heads off myself but I am worried that a full engine teardown is necessary and may end up doing a valve job now with a full teardown in the summer when I have a little more time. In the midst of doing the compression test, I opened the throttle body valve to find the entire inside coated with black soot! This has also been coming out of the exhaust as well. I thought it was a Borla exhaust issue since I had a little sootiness before but now it is oil-hungry so it looks ugly my friends... Any good shops in Philadelphia/South Jersey area someone could recommend?
I have a 2006 R52 with 228,805 miles; original engine, original transmission. I picked the car up used at 205,000 miles there was only one previous owner. Last week I ran the car hard (up and down the NJ turnpike for 3 days straight). On the 4th day I was coming back from a job meeting when it felt like I hit a cinderblock in the road! It sounded like the muffler had dropped as well so I pulled over and lifted the hood to see the spark plug wire laying on top of the engine! Spark plug was gone! Since then I have put a helicoil in and the engine is "running". Compression test shows 180-120-180-175 so I am thinking I have a burned exhaust valve. :( I will probably look at taking the heads off myself but I am worried that a full engine teardown is necessary and may end up doing a valve job now with a full teardown in the summer when I have a little more time. In the midst of doing the compression test, I opened the throttle body valve to find the entire inside coated with black soot! This has also been coming out of the exhaust as well. I thought it was a Borla exhaust issue since I had a little sootiness before but now it is oil-hungry so it looks ugly my friends... Any good shops in Philadelphia/South Jersey area someone could recommend?
I was at the shop yesterday for power bushings and some codes done. It was a great experience to meet with Eric and his team. The shop can handle almost anything you need and the Lead Tech is very knowledgeable. The whole team is friendly and will give you the utmost attention.
I'm so glad to take my Mini to Felix - feels like home with friends and amazing experience with Mini - down to the nuts and bolts.
Last edited by Dozuki01; Mar 12, 2013 at 11:07 AM.
I am looking at purchasing a 2007 MCS with 53,000 miles and seller explained to me that he hasn't had any carbon buildup problems. Natually this made me worried so I contacted Eurotechs, a Mini Cooper repair shop in Tempe AZ, because I feel this will be a short term issue that I will have to pay for and this is the e-mail they sent.
Hello,
Pre purchase inspection are $20 and take about 1/2 hour to complete. We give you a general once over and a quick computer scan to see if any faults are in there.
Carbon build up cannot be seen without removal of the intake manifold so there is no quick check.
To have the valves cleaned with new spark plugs installed it comes it at ~$390. After cleaning we install a PCV delete kit to prevent carbon build up from coming back. The delete kit we used is a Peugeot kit that MINI never adopted (since valve cleaning it high profit for the dealers).
The cleaning through an independent is a lot cheaper than what I was fearing with many other previous responses on this thread.
Hello,
Pre purchase inspection are $20 and take about 1/2 hour to complete. We give you a general once over and a quick computer scan to see if any faults are in there.
Carbon build up cannot be seen without removal of the intake manifold so there is no quick check.
To have the valves cleaned with new spark plugs installed it comes it at ~$390. After cleaning we install a PCV delete kit to prevent carbon build up from coming back. The delete kit we used is a Peugeot kit that MINI never adopted (since valve cleaning it high profit for the dealers).
The cleaning through an independent is a lot cheaper than what I was fearing with many other previous responses on this thread.
Yes I would like one too. My wife's 2009 is a coke machine. It builds up as fast as I clean it out. This will probably be my reason for selling Mini's and going back to Toyota. Hate to say it but this design is horrible and Mini blew it big time.
Check engine light = carbon built up in my case
Got the check engine light a week after an oil change by the dealer @ 24,000 miles on my 2010 MCS, took it back a week later a they had to blast the cylinder due to a carbon built up, also they said that it needs a computer software upgrade, while doing so ( the software upgrade ) I got a call from the dealership saying that the upgrade damage my radio and they had to order new one! I hope I get it back tomorrow, I miss my car! 

At no charge, still under warranty, so they said to me today.


At no charge, still under warranty, so they said to me today.
While fuel additives can help keep injectors, pistons, and valve faces clean, the problem with the R56 Direct injection engine is a problem with many direct injection engines. The PCV routing pulls oily mist past the intake valves, and there is no fuel (solvent) to clean them. My photos above show the side effect that MINI dealerships are treating with walnut shell blasting. They do that because this problem will not remedy itself with any amount of Techron or STP. Some owners are using Seafoam treatments misted into the intake via the PCV hose, but this will not clean the valves or the ports comprehensively, especially if it's gone untreated for years and 50k+ miles.
Here's how Peugeot owners are solving the problem from recurring, with inspiration from Peugeot themselves.
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
I am installing the BSH Catch can at the Turbo PCV (these engines have two), and the BSH Boost Valve at the end of the PCV hose from the intake. That boost valve allows for an internal plug, so you invisibly stop that line from working. I belive this, or the simple plug method from Peugeot should be part of a recall from MINI and Peugeot. They are treating the symptom,instead of the cause.
Here's how Peugeot owners are solving the problem from recurring, with inspiration from Peugeot themselves.
http://www.etuners.gr/en/index.php?s=12&t=299
I am installing the BSH Catch can at the Turbo PCV (these engines have two), and the BSH Boost Valve at the end of the PCV hose from the intake. That boost valve allows for an internal plug, so you invisibly stop that line from working. I belive this, or the simple plug method from Peugeot should be part of a recall from MINI and Peugeot. They are treating the symptom,instead of the cause.
Currently researching doing the walnut shell blasting. If I'm going to keep this car, might be worth it for me to buy the stuff once and learn to do it myself instead of paying 600 every 30k miles.
Got the check engine light a week after an oil change by the dealer @ 24,000 miles on my 2010 MCS, took it back a week later a they had to blast the cylinder due to a carbon built up, also they said that it needs a computer software upgrade, while doing so ( the software upgrade ) I got a call from the dealership saying that the upgrade damage my radio and they had to order new one! I hope I get it back tomorrow, I miss my car! 

At no charge, still under warranty, so they said to me today.


At no charge, still under warranty, so they said to me today.
Check engine light = carbon built up in my case
I only put 93 premium gas in my MCS, I live in Boston MA and this summer has been brutally hot, just got a call from the dealership and my car is ready, will pick it up later today. I will update if their is a improvement in performance although I didn't experience power loss.
2009 Mini Cooper S - 55500 miles
Hello! I'm new to this forum and new to the world of Mini.
My 2009 Mini Cooper S is being serviced right now for the carbon build up issue.
$664 = a day's worth of work to get it done.
I bought the car pre-owned back in March from Crevier Mini. I took the car in last week and for an oil change and front brake work. I asked the service department to run a diagnostic check to insure the car was running as it should. Checks came back OK. Two days ago I start the car in the morning to head out to work and the check engine light comes on. Since it's my commuter car I needed it back and forth to work until I could bring it in for service. Dropped it off this morning and later received a call from service that the issue was due to carbon build up. I asked what I could do to reduce the build up, he suggested driving aggressive (which I do), driving in sport mode (which I also do), buy better quality gas from Shell, Chevron, etc. ( I do that too), and occasionally use a fuel infection solution ( will start doing).
Since I'm the second owner of the Coop S I have no clue pf how the previous owner treated the car but he/she obviously cared about it since they purchased an extended maintenance warranty, which unfortunately didn't cover this work. It's OK, the car has held up to all my expectations so far and I will be more apt to follow the suggestions of all of you here and the dealer mechanic when necessary.
My 2009 Mini Cooper S is being serviced right now for the carbon build up issue.
$664 = a day's worth of work to get it done.
I bought the car pre-owned back in March from Crevier Mini. I took the car in last week and for an oil change and front brake work. I asked the service department to run a diagnostic check to insure the car was running as it should. Checks came back OK. Two days ago I start the car in the morning to head out to work and the check engine light comes on. Since it's my commuter car I needed it back and forth to work until I could bring it in for service. Dropped it off this morning and later received a call from service that the issue was due to carbon build up. I asked what I could do to reduce the build up, he suggested driving aggressive (which I do), driving in sport mode (which I also do), buy better quality gas from Shell, Chevron, etc. ( I do that too), and occasionally use a fuel infection solution ( will start doing).
Since I'm the second owner of the Coop S I have no clue pf how the previous owner treated the car but he/she obviously cared about it since they purchased an extended maintenance warranty, which unfortunately didn't cover this work. It's OK, the car has held up to all my expectations so far and I will be more apt to follow the suggestions of all of you here and the dealer mechanic when necessary.
Every MINI service writer has been trained to tell you to buy Top Tier gasoline and run some FI cleaner through. Doesn't do a damn thing for the problem. It's just a way to shift the blame for a troublesome design from the manufacturer onto the owner. Typical BMW move.
Anyway …
Keep Calm and Motor On!
34K, discovered after High Pressure Fuel Pump failure. MINI paid for the walnut shell treatment when car wouldn't run following injector and HPFP replacement.
SA said to me, "I bet your car runs a lot better now!" I said, "It runs as well now as it did before the HPFP dumped 6 gallons of gas into the intake in 10 miles."
SA said to me, "I bet your car runs a lot better now!" I said, "It runs as well now as it did before the HPFP dumped 6 gallons of gas into the intake in 10 miles."
34K, discovered after High Pressure Fuel Pump failure. MINI paid for the walnut shell treatment when car wouldn't run following injector and HPFP replacement.
SA said to me, "I bet your car runs a lot better now!" I said, "It runs as well now as it did before the HPFP dumped 6 gallons of gas into the intake in 10 miles."
SA said to me, "I bet your car runs a lot better now!" I said, "It runs as well now as it did before the HPFP dumped 6 gallons of gas into the intake in 10 miles."
Still trying to research this peugot kit for pcv delete.
Audi sells the same plugs, IIRC. If you do a search here for PVC Delete, you'll find a thread that has the Audi part numbers near the end.
Thanks for the response. I'm starting to figure out lots of other with similar models/engine type are experience the same problem. Do you have any recommendations? I see a few comments about the PVC delete solution to reduce help reduce the carbon build up.
Neither the premium gas nor the fuel injector cleaner will make a difference. The detergents in gasoline and in FI cleaner work only when they make contact with the surface where carbon builds up. While normally aspirated and supercharged MINIs use traditional fuel injectors which squirt fuel into the intake tract, upstream of the valves, the turbo-charged MINIs squire directly into the combustion chamber. The fuel never reaches the backs of the valves where the build-up occurs. Thus, the detergents can't do anything back there.
Every MINI service writer has been trained to tell you to buy Top Tier gasoline and run some FI cleaner through. Doesn't do a damn thing for the problem. It's just a way to shift the blame for a troublesome design from the manufacturer onto the owner. Typical BMW move.
Anyway …
Keep Calm and Motor On!
Every MINI service writer has been trained to tell you to buy Top Tier gasoline and run some FI cleaner through. Doesn't do a damn thing for the problem. It's just a way to shift the blame for a troublesome design from the manufacturer onto the owner. Typical BMW move.
Anyway …
Keep Calm and Motor On!





