http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/036131510/ES274329/

• Mfg Part# 036131510 Audi/VW

 

My mini had a rough idle for several years, but each time, the dealership told me it was nothing. Then, after owning it three years (15K miles), I had a check engine light on so I took it in and had it back within a day with a lame story about a loose hose clamp. Three days later, while waiting at a red light in traffic, it just shut itself off. I took it in and they ended up keeping it for a month. Kept telling me a new story each week--first it needed O2 sensor, then it needed fuel injectors, but it kept having the same error code. When I finally got it back, their final workup stated that they fixed the problem with fuel injector cleaner (after new fuel injectors? why?). Ended up blaming the gas that I was putting in, however, I always use the highest octane gas, just as I was told when I bought it. I never got a reasonable answer from the dealership or from the manufacturer when I complained that it took them a MONTH to "solve" the problem by using fuel injector cleaner???? I absolutely love my mini but am so unimpressed with their service and car reliability, I am now shopping for a new one.

 

Add me to the list of experiencing problems. Rough start up. 71K miles with a 2007 R56. They had it for about a week trying to figure it out. Not enough build up to warrant a full clean. (They don't walnut blast or just pick, they pull the head??) They up'd the start up rpm by 75 now it is able to start right up. Looking for local options around me now that are open on the weekend to walnut blast near Alabama/Tennessee to postpone future problems.

 

Any one done the pcv valve block of posted above and had success? Audi one fits?

 

2007 MCS 83k miles on it. Engine misfire with carbon build up. Dealer wants $800 for walnut shell, injector clean, and a reprogramming (not sure why the reprogram is needed..) Cleaning myself, programming seems unnecessary.

 

I believe the reprogramming is to justify their higher price, I did have my MCS reprogrammed when I replace all timing chain components and the tech also adjusted the intake cams timing located on the sprocket.

So how would you rate your engines performance at 83K?

 

It's not bad considering the misfire. I am noticing a slight loss in power and it does consume oil more than other cars I've owned but I check it weekly. I get paranoid about the death rattle :-P

 

well at 27K carbon build up led to Deale replacing entire engine under warranty. 66K odo reading 35 ish on engine starting to have issues with it again. I have been adding Techron every 3rd fill up and Seafoam treatment every oil change/7500 miles. I have used Zmaxx twice due to add again that seems to help.

 

I am new to MINI's, been reading trying to get familiarized with the brand before I take delivery of mine. I have a '14 on order so hopefully this will not be an issue for me. Just trying to understand one thing.... MINI seems to do this under warranty for you if it is still under the factory warranty period. As soon as you are out of warranty period, not even the Extended MINI Warranty will cover it. So basically the Extended Warranty covers all but Carbon Buildup? That kinda blows, as they seem to know there is an issue, but get out of paying for it this way. Works great for MINI though!!

 

Perfect fit - bought mine from ECS Tuning.

 

Don't you need two of them, one for valve cover and another for throttle body? Installing my BSH catch can soon.

 

I think this is more of a maintenance item, like tire or belt replacement, not a warranty issue like a defective steering pump.

However, you have the N18 motor, as do I, and I've heard it is far less susceptible to this, so I am not worried about it.

 

I doubt it will be an issue... The n18 engine has dual VANOS and better fuel timing.. This with a redesign of the PCV seems to have fixed or at least nearly eliminated the issue on the newer (post 2011) cars.

I did a lot if research on this before I made the plunge into my Clubman.

 

Yes, you do need two.

I also installed a catch can and blocked off the rear PCV port with two of these.

I have heard from one NAM member that still had buildup reoccur after cleaning even with catch can and blocked rear PCV ports. The previous cleaning was by manual cleaning with carburetor cleaner and wire brushes. He said that the chemical cleaning result was not nearly as good as the walnut blasting and he felt that the reoccurrence may have at least been partially due to insufficiently clean valves.

I guess we'll have to see if the build up still occurs even with the rear port blocked and a catch can on these N14 engines. I suspect that we will find that it does - but probably at a slower rate.

 

08 Justa Cooper, 70k miles, misfire on cylinder 1, narrowed down to the valves. I'm planning to pull the head apart as soon as I have the parts. Does anyone have recommendations on where to get the head studs and a BSH catch can?

 

Anyone can help a noob on finding the link on how to determine or check for carbon build up?

I used the search button and only find members talking about it

Thanks guys

 

Well...

Loss of power.
Misfire codes.
Lean mixture codes.

A visual inspection IMHO with a video boroscope is the only good way to nail it down.

 

None of which I'm getting.
But thank you.

Was hoping for a way I can inspect myself and hen get the dealer to confirm it.
I'm still under warranty, so if like to know.

 

You have to remove the intake manifold to see. I too was still under warranty and removed intake manifold. You can see with a flashlight and inspection mirror. I used a fiber optic camera and took pictures. I was not getting codes so dealer would not walnut shell blast under warranty. I walnut shell blasted them myself and saw notably more power , engine smoothness, and more eager response.

I posted a step-by-step DIY in another thread. Click on my user name and you can view links to my other posts.

 

Thanks!
Trying to locate it but it looks like its not a thread you created.
Trying to go through 799 of your post is being a challenge. Anyway you can share that link?
Pls and thanks

 

See post #27 of this thread:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...leaning-2.html

 

Thanks!
I just saved your PDF

 

Here is the link to the step-by-step DIY walnut shell blasting using about $70 of modified Harbor Freight items (assuming you already have access to a shop vac and 1 HP or greater air compressor).

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ss-3-27-13.pdf

It is important to use the specified tubing or other tubing with about a 0.20" inside diameter. If this is bigger you will have low walnut shell impact speed and poor cleaning. If it is too small you will have low walnut shell flow.

Good luck. It made a big difference and most dealers charge around $800 to do a walnut shell blast. You can not clean this build up with ANY fuel additives as no fuel ever touches the valves with these direct injection engines.

 

I paid $800 dollars to have my intake valves walnut blasted on the 23th of August, world of a difference! Mine was really bad, installing PCV delete and BSH catch can in the next couple of days.

Updated with pictures

 

At the dealership, was just informed the car needs the walnut blasting done AGAIN. This is the third time now...after the second time I got an OCC. And here it happens again. I'm beginning to think maybe my tune's a/f ratio is off or something...

I'm at around 130k miles fyi.